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Mush Zombie

How to make a spore print

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BEYOND2

badass.........ive been wanting to learn this just gotta get a GB or flowhood nice simple tek :D

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BEYOND2

hey MZ after 24-48 hours that the prints in the GB u do u need to wipe the GB down again or can i just wipe my hands with the iso then wrap the print up? and how long after the veil breaks do you have to start a print....ASAP right?

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Mush Zombie

hey MZ after 24-48 hours that the prints in the GB u do u need to wipe the GB down again or can i just wipe my hands with the iso then wrap the print up? and how long after the veil breaks do you have to start a print....ASAP right?

depending on if the veil has spores on it or not as it is tearing away (or about to) is how you will know what caps to print. When the veils are a dark color before they are torn away completey, those are the caps you want to print! Then to determine when to print... well I personally start to print them when i see spores on the top of the caps, or if the cap becomes nearly plane. As for the GB and printing, after the prints have been made, just iso up your gloved hands and wrap them up. the quicker the better, but not so fast that you mess up.
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BEYOND2

ok cool thanks man its time for me to start givn some prints out for people in need ;)

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BrutalityIsLaw

hey MZ after 24-48 hours that the prints in the GB u do u need to wipe the GB down again or can i just wipe my hands with the iso then wrap the print up? and how long after the veil breaks do you have to start a print....ASAP right?

I did that at first and got nearly nothing for prints. As soon as the veils broke I was printing them left with nearly nothing. I started waiting till they planed out and got nice dark ones.

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OStricher

Some strains are a little diff I think. I've have printed from veil just breaking to wide open flat. I only had one that dropped nothing. I print for 36hrs and they usually look they have been painted. GT I've read has viable spores in the cap long before the veil breaks. If you are printing just a few hrs, you might try going 12 -24 hrs to let them drop.

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Mush Zombie

I did that at first and got nearly nothing for prints. As soon as the veils broke I was printing them left with nearly nothing. I started waiting till they planed out and got nice dark ones.

Some strains are a little diff I think. I've have printed from veil just breaking to wide open flat. I only had one that dropped nothing. I print for 36hrs and they usually look they have been painted. GT I've read has viable spores in the cap long before the veil breaks. If you are printing just a few hrs, you might try going 12 -24 hrs to let them drop.

Cubes are cubes, with the exception of PE and APE. If the veil has a lot of spores on it, the cap will print well. If it does not, then it will not print well, generally. Sometimes you get a few that print well, sometimes all of them print well, and on later flushes sometimes none of them will print hardly at all. I am not sure what causes the variation in the individual mushrooms ability to produce spores, or not produce spores, but by looking at the veil you will know which ones will print. I agree with Taven9. If some veils are not dark, and the gills are not, sometimes waiting a while will give them time to catch up to others. I have found this to be important for collecting spores from PE. If you wait an extra long while after the gills have become exposed (if they become exposed at all), the gills darken up significantly. It does also help to wait until the cap is plane, but sometimes they will be dropping spores all over the place before that, and you need to get them out of there. I have had some bad allergic reactions to concentrations of spores in the air, from waiting to long to collect spores. It sucks!
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OStricher

Cambodians are an earlier spore producer. When I see the 1st partial tear in the veil, even a small slit, I use and alcohol wiped needle and go around the cap edge releasing the veil. The veil almost falls away from the cap by itself. The cap at this stage is the still pretty pointed, unflattened out top. But if you print that for 24-36 hrs...it may not be huge in dia but you can see the spores piled on the foil. It looks like thick paint with lumps on it. The cap opens a little more during this time. I think many try to rush the time on the print. I'm not looking for a nice pretty gill pattern most of the time...I want it painted thick. lol

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OStricher

Here is a perfect example of diffs IMO. Have a B+ that weighed 31gm in a 2/3 full 1/2pint invitro jar! Ok, thats a printer for sure. You can see where the veil tore and how much it grew after. 12hrs.....24hrs...nada...I'm coming up on 36 and its not looking promising. The gills are very dark now but the cap is drying out fast. You can add a drop of water to the cap to keep it moist and it can buy enough time for them to go. Been there on a rare occasion. I've never seen one go this long and drop nothing, but I'd love a print from it. I did clone lc the base core of the stem. ;)

post-264-0-98439200-1344377986_thumb.jpg

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OStricher

The clone lc I would hope for near identical. The print all I can hope for is the large fruit characteristic to be dominant at some point for iso. The main point I was trying to make was the diff in time and when a print will occur. I was just following the thread title with an example of the diff in times.

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Mush Zombie

The clone lc I would hope for near identical. The print all I can hope for is the large fruit characteristic to be dominant at some point for iso. The main point I was trying to make was the diff in time and when a print will occur.

with a clone you will still find at least 5 substrains on agar. It will improve flushing though
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