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Mush Zombie

This is Cobweb Mold

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BrutalityIsLaw

Holy Sh*t those are some extreme cases of cobweb for sure. Great pictures to show people what it really looks like in different cases. Knowing your contams is a very important part of mycology. Good stuff as always MZ.

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Dozzer

Holy webs ... That is for sure an extream case of the webs...I think a little more than a little H202 is needed to get that under controle...but I did have one cake long ago that recovered, it wsa bad, but nothing like that...WOW Great information, I like how your dooing seperate threads for each tam, keeps the clutter down withing a dedicated thread, might want to put admin aproval on these threads to prevent miss diagnosed tam pics from showing up...just a thought Peace **D**

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WyLee

Thank you for posting this! Really weird that you did too bc I kept dreaming about cobweb last night coming up with pics in my head of what it could possibly look like. I kept dreaming of the white stringy stuff that grows on cacti and thinking that's what it would look like, lol. Now I know, thanks :)

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drewmaster

Hey guys, anyone got any pics of Cobb web mold on grain? Thanks, Drewmaster

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AUM_Shanti

Hello. I am trying to grow in a new environment here. I am using the no fail wbs tec. Well here is where the cobweb comes in to this question. I couldn't do g2g right away and noticed cobweb in jar about 2 days after PC the WBS. Not sure where contam is coming from. I am wondering if I were to let the WBS sit wet for 2 days before PC if this would allow any spores to germinate allowing the PC to kill it.

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Mush Zombie

Hello. I am trying to grow in a new environment here. I am using the no fail wbs tec. Well here is where the cobweb comes in to this question. I couldn't do g2g right away and noticed cobweb in jar about 2 days after PC the WBS. Not sure where contam is coming from. I am wondering if I were to let the WBS sit wet for 2 days before PC if this would allow any spores to germinate allowing the PC to kill it.

 

this topic is almost 2 years old. start a new one and many people will help you out

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mycolangelo

Can anyone lend an opinion this is my first coco verm tray and I'm not sure if it's contaminated any help would be greatly appreciated 906bc8502c1c32e4de531a515210023c.jpg

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Mush Zombie

looks ok

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righitter420
On 9/26/2014 at 7:20 PM, mycolangelo said:

Can anyone lend an opinion this is my first coco verm tray and I'm not sure if it's contaminated any help would be greatly appreciated 906bc8502c1c32e4de531a515210023c.jpg

it looks ok to me

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    • Sonshyn
      I’m going foraging a little ways from Maryland in another week or two 
    • Moonphase
      Learning a lot reading your posts keep it up. 
    • Mush Zombie
      Oh I apologize I was confused as to which thread I was commenting in. My last reply was about actual fruiting chambers and conditions. You are incubating. You need to maintain 77-80* air temperatures during incubation but do not sit your bags directly on a heating source. 
    • Iamchefmo
      Makes sense. So do you recommend that I put the tote away from the heater so it falls back to room temperature? I know contams are higher risk at higher temps but I also read it promotes healthier mycelium and faster colonization times. I thought I'd give it a shot since my other bags failed on the shelf   
    • Mush Zombie
      That is due to a phenomenon known as dew point. The air in the fruiting chamber is much warmer than the plastic of it. This causes the moisture in the air to condense on the walls. Like brining a cold can of soda outside during the summer. the goal is to cool the air in the fc to about that of the plastic. 68-72 degrees.  Condensate almost always indicates temps too high
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