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Z-Strain Monotub first try

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After much deliberation I decided to try a monotub.


I’ve been experimenting with pf tek for almost a year and making my own spore syringes and I think I’ve pretty much mastered that so the next step was natural.


I’ve only ever used 1 type of cubensis, Z-strain.

It’s just what was available at that time, no real thought behind it but it’s been very easy for me to get results with.

I used Spelt grain and teamed that up with Daimons 50/50 tek. (Coir+Verm)

Standard monotub design, black back ect. 


All he prep went well.... or so I thought

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Pictures or it didn't happen! Haaaa hahaah!

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    • Blackstar
      Haha I 'm pretty sure I learned that from reading your posts about it. It's really a great way to do it, so thanks for the pro tip!
    • Big steve the dancing machine
      Thank you.I didn't think this seemed right.time bulk casing I use comes from non-sponsor vendor, sms it seems really good.this Will bye muy first dedicated monotub grow- I've only done cakes so far. Dip,a little feast sms a lot of questions seem to be right in line.it seems maybe the person telling me this isn't real grower material? I've never seem any results from him, and I guess I can see why. I appreciate all your input, and I'm really grateful for your time.thank you so much. "Nothing says trouble like a woman laughing when shit ain't funny"                            John c. Mcginley Man,i wish I could spell. Thank you, seriously.I appreciate the input. "I used to drop acid. I still do, but I used to, too."                                   -mitch hedburg
    • Mushpunx
      No perlite. The substrate in a monotub is large enough to provide it's own humidity and if you prepare your substrate at proper field capacity it won't be too wet that it would need to drain thru perlite. Either line the tub up to the top of substrate with a plastic liner (trash bags are too thin, they stick to the wall via water tension instead of holding up tight against and shrinking with the substrate. I use thick 3 mil plastic painter's drop cloth, it's very cheap for a roll, 2-3$. It prevents the microclimate where side and bottom fruits like to form and you can lift your substrate in and out to harvest. Or just go without a liner and really make sure your surface conditions are dialed in on point.  Don't do what the above poster said. Prep the sub at proper field capacity and dial in your tub. Start with the bottom holes stuffed very tightly with poly fill and the top quite loosely. You should aim for a nice healthy layer of tiny water droplets across your substrate surface. If your tub is too dry, give it a nice mist and restrict FAE by tightening the bottom poly more. If it's too wet, and you see puddles, give it more FAE by loosening the poly fill. You want to find a balance. Give it the most FAE possible , without drying the surface out so that you have to mist much by hand all  the time.   
    • phish
      Stellar, stellar work Blackstar 😎🤙 Exactly the way I like to roll   I’ve used some after 3+ years and they still kicked our ass 
    • Mushpunx
      You want to mist the cakes directly when they are dry, never the walls. And no need to try to control the humidity in the FC, the only humidity you need to worry about is at surface level. If you plan on growing cakes regularly, I suggest you build a SGFC ,  to spec- it's just a clear tub with 1/4" holes drilled on all *six* sides, in a 2 x 2" grid pattern, with 5" damp perlite in the bottom. The bottom of the tub is raised up off the surface by bricks or soup cans at the corners.  But for right now , I would keep on doing what you are doing, cracking the lid for frequent air exchange like you are, but I would dump the water out of the bottom and mist the cakes instead of the walls.