Jump to content
  • Welcome Guest!

    Please register or sign in to have the complete Shroomology community experience! Become a member today, post topics, get your own profile, personal messenger and more!

Mush Zombie

The Official No Soak No Simmer Wbs Tek

Recommended Posts

Mush Zombie

Section 1: WBS PREP


Measure out how much WBS you will need. For this tek here are the measurements:


400ml WBS

200 ML water


So if you are going to make 7 WBS jars (which is how many will fit in a 16qt PC) you need to use 3.5 jars of dry wbs.



WBS is some nasty stuff. So the most crucial part of this tek is separating all the crap out from the wbs rinsing the WBS. We are rinsing it to get all the dirt out, and all the other crap that makes for sludge soup in your spawn jars. Here is an example of how nasty WBS is:



Just look at all that crap in there! No wonder you have to shake your jars three days in a row using the old method of this tek! That crap turns to mud!!


Seperate the sunflower seeds and all the other twigs and crap

Pour all of your wbs into a pot in your sink or whatever you will use to rinse the wbs (bathtubs, back yards, whatever). Fill the pot up until water begins to pool over, and continue to fill it with water until all the floating crap is gone. Reach your hand down in there and stir it up to get all the other floating crap out.






Rinse the WBS

Pour the wbs from the pot into a strainer. Rinse it out very well with VERY HOT water until the water runs clear. Let the wbs drain for about 5-10 min.



Fill your jars

Fill your jars up with wbs to the 400 ml line. Fill the jars with water until it gets to the 200 ml line (DO NOT ADD 200 ML OF PREMEASURED WATER!!)



  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
Mush Zombie

Section 2: Making Lids and Sterilizing WBS


Other than the need to rinse your WBS, the lids play a very important role for grain spawn. The lid will need to provide some gas exchange (not a lot) yet not allow contaminants to enter while colonization is in progress.


Make your lids

To make your spawn jar lids, simply put the lid on the jar as it is supposed to be installed, center a phillips head screw driver in the middle of the lid, and just lightly tap the phillips head screw driver with a hammer until it goes through the lid. You do not need to use much force. If you do you will likely lose your jar.



Make tyvek filter disks

Using tyvek filter disks will prevent contaminants from entering your spawn jars, once they are sterilized. Tyvek is free at the post office. If you cant find tyvek, move to another country of figure something else out. :P


Simply trace a lid on they tyvek, and cut them out to fit. Make sure they are not too small, so cut on the outside line.

Posted Image

(pic borrowed from Beyond2, thanks!)



Create Self Healing Injector Ports (S.H.I.P.) with RTV

Install your lids, tyvek filter disks, and tighten down the jar rings. Find the holes you made in the lids through the tyvek and mark them.



Apply RTV silicone to the mark. Add a good dollop.



Rip up a few peices of paper that are a little bigger than your RTV dollop and put the paper on the RTV. Flatten the RTV very gently with the paper, so that it just has a flat surface.




Pressure Cook Your WBS

If you dont have a pressure cooker, get one. Pressure cook your WBS jars for 90 min @ 15 PSI.


  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • MagicalCriminal
      The casing keeps moisture in. It's not needed if you can maintain 90-95% rh. If you have occasional problems with your humidifier, casing would be insurance.
    • Moonphase
      Great looking.  Enjoy.  
    • dzdzdz
      Oh true so you would want to hit them right at cloning stage? Did to more sugars at the roots 
    • keebles124
        *****Sorry i posted twice, not sure where was the best place**** Hey all, straight to the point.... Got Burma fruiting.  Pins started off brownish and now are tinted blue.  I believe the substrate did dry out a little bit when pins started to appear, but i added a little water on the sides of the tray just so it would wick some water up into it, which it did,  then i poured off the excess, being gentle as i did so.  Humidity(old humidifier) wasn't consistent after casing, now it's stable at 90% Temp stable. (68-72) Growth consistent daily No ugly contams anywhere.   My potential fuck ups: -Forgot plastic lining in tray - casing too thick maybe (50/50 peat/verm only) maybe 1/4in thick, will go thinner next time - over misted to add moisture during early humidity issues. (Slowed down misting after humidity fixed)   Questions:   -Are they still good? -Is it bruising from errors or the potency stuff that is talked about? -do i even need casing next time, since they grew from the uncased sides of the tray? -oh yea, most importantly, are they still good?   Thanks in advance.
    • Baphomet
      That looks ready to me!