Popular Post Mush Zombie 26427 Posted January 14, 2012 Popular Post Share Posted January 14, 2012 How to grow shrooms in bulk monotub tek, and how to build a monotub. Need spores? Please support our sponsors! For mushroom spores visit sourceofspores.com Coupon code "shroomology" gets you a discount on your entire order. NO MISTING AND NO FANNING ALLOWED! SECTION 1 Monotub Design: These designs are for the STERILITE 60 QT, but apply to any tub you have, with some modification on your part. There are several designs for monotubs. If you get a tote that is larger or smaller, than the sterilite 60qt, and you plan on using my sub prep method, you will have to increase/decrease everything in this tek accordingly, and may need to add weather stripping to the lip of the tub so that there are not any gaps, creating too much FAE. These monotubs will have about, a 4 1/2" deep substrate if you follow my substrate prep contained herein. Cased Sub Monotub Design: This design is very simple, but the hole placement is key here for optimal evaporation from the casing layer, and surface of the sub, while maintaining proper RH. The hole placements will be large 1" x 1" holes up top, and small 1/4" holes in the bottom of the tub. "Bottom" meaning 5" above the bottom of the tub. There are many ways to cut the large holes in the top of the tub. You can use a spade bit, a dremel cutting bit in a regular drill, a hot knife, or a soldering iron. Be creative and know that all the ways i mentioned except for the knife are efficient. The small holes I use a 1/4" drill bit and a drill to drill the holes around the bottom. Make the bottom holes about 1" to 1 1/2" apart from each other. Section 2: Monotub Sub Prep: You can use whatever substrate you like in your monotub, but this is how I do it and it is VERY simplified. Things you will need: 5 gallon bucket large tote (for mixing sub in not the monotub) 1/2 brick of Coco Coir Pot to boil water in 6 qts COARSE grade vermiculite 4 qts cmc/HPOO (Cow manure compost/ Horse Poo) Hydrated/Pickling lime 8 cups of water. Large oven bag 16qt(or larger) Pressure cooker Coco Coir can be found in Petsmart or any pet store that sells reptiles. It is used for reptile/arachnid bedding. Bring 8 cups of water to a boil. Cut brick of coir in half Put coir in a 5 gallon bucket Pour boiling water over coir cover with the bucket lid or a towel for 15 min stir coir up so that it is all broken up, evenly distributed, and fluffy Allow coir to sit for 1 hour, covered, to hydrate fully. While the coir is cooling, move to the next part of sub prep Pour 4qts of cmc/Hpoo into a large tote for mixing. Add 2 TSP of lime (to buffer PH of poo and coir. it is required for multiple flushes). Mix as well as humanly possible. Add 6 Qts of COARSE grade verm. (YES it must be coarse grade) mix well again. After the one hour cool time for the coir, dump the entire contents of the 5gallon bucket into the large tote. Mix well This mix should come out to perfect field capacity (moisture content is key here). Field capacity is when you can grab a handful, squeeze it and a little water can bead up at the knuckles but should not be dripping. When you losen your grip the substrate should remain in the collapsed form. This is close to field capacity, a bit too wet IMO, but will work ok. If your sub is any wetter than this, you will nee to add verm to it until it is field capacity. One little drip due to gravity is ok though. If your sub meets these requirements, load it into an oven bag, squeeze the air out (you can compact the sub in the oven bag) and seal the bag with the seal tie that came with the bag. poke two small holes in the top of the oven bag cover holes with micropore tape tape down any excess of the bag to the main body of the bag. This is to prevent the excess from clogging the rocker pipe of the pressure cooker. Pressure cook the substrate for 90min @ 15PSI Let cool in PC overnight. Section 3: SPAWNING TO THE MONOTUB Things you will need: 6 qts spawn Black Trashbag (preferably contractor or yard) Micropore tape Aluminum Foil Polyfill pillow stuffing Isopropyl Rubbbing Alcohol Line the tub with the black trash bag. I just put the whole thing in there. Dump the whole oven bag of PCed substrate into the trashbag lined tub, making sure not to get any behind the trash bag (you can tape the bag up to the walls of the tub if you need to). Dump all your spawn on top of the sub. Mix very well making sure to get along the edges, and especially in the corners of the tub. Make sure to make the sub as flat as possible without packing down the sub. it is okay to pack it just a little bit to make the surface flat, but not very much at all is ok. Use very little force. (being flat will ensure a good probability of an even pinset) Once that is done line the sub with foil, poke a few holes in the foil, and cover them with micropore tape. Cover the bottom holes with micropore tape, and stuff tight balls of polyfill into the top holes, so that they dont come out easily. Put the lid of the tub on and incubate @ 80-82* F for 10 days. It does not matter if there is light or not. Section 4: FRUITING After the 10 days colonization period, you can bring the tub out to fruiting conditions. To do this remove the foil, cut the trashbag down below the bottom holes (this works best with a utility knife, or exacto knife) Apply a casing layer of your choice (I prefer 50/50+ or just regular 50/50) that is between 1/4" - 1/2" deep. Make sure that the casing is porus not a flattened mat, and not over field capacity. Mist the walls of the tub. Put the lid on. Set in an area where there is natural ambient lighting (NO DIRECT SUNLIGHT) Temperatures between 68-72*F are optimal for this tek. In the fruting area there should be a fan to circulate air, making for a good slow even FAE rate inside of the monotub. Depending on your strain of choice it can take between 5-14 days for pinset. No Misting, No fanning. 21 5 Link to post Share on other sites
Mush Zombie 26427 Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 badass i will be doin this on my next grow im thnkn ALACABENZIall of the images are alacabenzi, except for the PE. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
BEYOND2 500 Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 wat size is the monotub ? Link to post Share on other sites
Popular Post Mush Zombie 26427 Posted January 15, 2012 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 15, 2012 wat size is the monotub ?In the text of the tek, it is stated that the tote is a sterilite 60qt. I am very familiar with the methods Mycopathic posted here, and I can tell you that the Sterilite 60qt has a good sealing lid, and is perfect all around for this type of tek. The other tubs like the 56 qt, and the 58 qt have to have weather stripping applied to the lip of the tub, because they have crappy lids.After the weather stripping is applied though they work just fine, but you will have to decrease sub amount so that your sub doesnt go above the bottom holes... that would be disasterous, as you would have to manually fan the tub. 3 Link to post Share on other sites
BEYOND2 500 Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 o ok ill go with the 60qt sterilite sounds easier 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Dozzer 135 Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Well put together, the details are so in depth, and I learned something new Peace**D** 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Those Who Were 2140 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 great tek.. Yeah the 56qt lids suck, I am going through that issue right now having to use weather stripping, I have 3 56qt tubs, I am gonna use 60qt once they are wore out.. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Fast 165 Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 I have been using 116 quart containers they are long and low profile. Having 4 of these they are just to damn big, I will probably be switching to these in the near future. In the mean time I will be using them a few more times before then.**update** Walmart.com has them on clearence 6 of them for $30 so i ordered site to store to get the free shipping. 2 Link to post Share on other sites
Str0be 534 Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 I have been using this method before this tek was on here, and it is a very good tek. I pulled almost 8oz on first flush being a noob. Now that I have a bit more experience, we will see what can be done 2 Link to post Share on other sites
Motown 5 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 So, where's the one for the Uncased tubs? or did I miss something? Link to post Share on other sites
Str0be 534 Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 So, where's the one for the Uncased tubs? or did I miss something? Don't quote me on this, but for uncased, I would think you would lower the wrap-around 1/4" holes at the bottom by about 1/2" - 3/4". Basically just taking away the extra space that you left for the casing layer. But I wouldn't recommend not casing with this kind of tek. The way this tek works is with the lower temperatures / humidity and evaporation from the casing layer. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Mush Zombie 26427 Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 You have to use totally different hole set up for uncased subs.I know how Mycopathic grows, bc we use nearly identical techniques. Uncased subs do not perform as well as cased subs, and I doubt he actually uses them, so thats probably why myco hasnt posted it or fixed it, bc he wouldnt use that tek anyway. 2 Link to post Share on other sites
Neowulf 138 Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 There are several designs for monotubs. I will post two designs, one designed for cased subs, and one designed for uncased subs. Did ya forget to put the uncased one up? Link to post Share on other sites
Mush Zombie 26427 Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 So, where's the one for the Uncased tubs? or did I miss something? You have to use totally different hole set up for uncased subs. I know how Mycopathic grows, bc we use nearly identical techniques. Uncased subs do not perform as well as cased subs, and I doubt he actually uses them, so thats probably why myco hasnt posted it or fixed it, bc he wouldnt use that tek anyway. Did ya forget to put the uncased one up? I answered this question for myco who is very busy. No one should use an uncased monotub that wants results like the ones that are pictured. I have also removed the reference to uncased monotubs, as they are really dangerous to attempt, and the design was never posted. 2 Link to post Share on other sites
Neowulf 138 Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 alright was just wondering. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Popular Post Seekknowledge 652 Posted June 18, 2012 Popular Post Share Posted June 18, 2012 This is very easy to follow for someone like myself who has not done monotubs and is tired of misting and fanning. Everytime I thane a free minute I have to spend it missing and fanning lol. I will be following this tec in my grow log once my lc is ready. Thanx man 3 Link to post Share on other sites
SlimJim 27 Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 There isn't a better method of growing than tubs in terms of amount of time/work input to yield output. Awesome write up! It almost made me mist the days of misting and fanning! 1 Link to post Share on other sites
moon_walker 149 Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 i am excited for this tek, i will be tryin it out on my next grow log. Every grow ive seen in a mono has been so fuckin awesome! mycopathic you are the man for putin this tek up and mush zombie your also the man cuz you shared this on ST where i first seen it. cant wait you guys are the shit! 2 Link to post Share on other sites
Dozzer 135 Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 i am excited for this tek, i will be tryin it out on my next grow log. Every grow ive seen in a mono has been so fuckin awesome! mycopathic you are the man for putin this tek up and mush zombie your also the man cuz you shared this on ST where i first seen it. cant wait you guys are the shit! Easy as taking your first breath, follow TEK to a 'T', even small tubs do well, Ive yielded just over 1/4lb with this exact method and specs, but Im sure you seen it at ST Peace **D** 1 Link to post Share on other sites
moon_walker 149 Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 Easy as taking your first breath, follow TEK to a 'T', even small tubs do well, Ive yielded just over 1/4lb with this exact method and specs, but Im sure you seen it at ST Peace **D** Sure have, there is a couple o you guys that i followed and shit. a couple o you guys always had hella good flushes and i don kno how exactly. ive never had a my sub colonize as fast as said should, and ive tried it on the dryer side and more moiste side. my lil dubtubs took about 15 or 16 days to colonize so im just afraid when i put everything in the plastic bag i wont be able to see it to gauge the colonization completion. Link to post Share on other sites
Mush Zombie 26427 Posted August 11, 2012 Author Share Posted August 11, 2012 are you using cakes instead of grain spawn? are you using a glove box to noc your spawn (a real glove box)? are the tubs sealed correctly for proper c02 build up? Is the ambeint air temperature for colonization as prescribed? 1 Link to post Share on other sites
moon_walker 149 Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 are you using cakes instead of grain spawn? are you using a glove box to noc your spawn (a real glove box)? are the tubs sealed correctly for proper c02 build up? Is the ambeint air temperature for colonization as prescribed? Nah i use WBS cuz i love the bulk process, i made a glove box using a 60 qt and have two holes on one side. it has been perfect so far for me when i mix the casing and sub i have the holes on the circumfrence of the tub with some micropore and polypore to allow for G.E. and i put like 6 or 7 holes in the foil covered by micropore for the top. I use a tit setup with a steady 80* to 82*. the only difference that i do that i feel could be making mine slower is 1.the fact that my verm isnt as coarse as some teks are, mines on the mid to finer side so it might make a lil more of a denser casing and more surface area for the myc to travel, and 2. i havent used coir at all. and that probly helps the mix breathe better so the myc could travel faster and easier. if i had those two things i feel like my tubs might be faster to colonize and probly fruit also. i cant find super coarse verm though and i cant seem to find coco coir either. i looked all over my pet store. is coco coir that shit you could get at a hydro shop? Link to post Share on other sites
Mush Zombie 26427 Posted August 11, 2012 Author Share Posted August 11, 2012 idk if you can get it at a hydro store or not. They do sell it at pet smart. just dont get the mulch crap. The verm is a real issue. Fine verm just wont cut it in the bulk world when you are messing with poo. You do not need any verm for coir 1 Link to post Share on other sites
moon_walker 149 Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 where you get your verm? Link to post Share on other sites
Mush Zombie 26427 Posted August 11, 2012 Author Share Posted August 11, 2012 i get mine from a local feed and seed store. its 20 bucks for 4sq ft of super coarse verm Link to post Share on other sites
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