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psilocybin

"Hunter Process" By The Pimp HunterGT

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psilocybin

IF IT ISN'T IN RED I DIDN'T WRITE IT

1. This tek is my own and is not for sale/copy/paste/reproduction of any sort without credit to me and the website you found it at.... www.shroomology.com. You can copy/paste it for yourself or even for another website....but you better give credit to me and Shroomology.

2. I do things my own way....so if you or somebody else decides to do it a different way and tweak a few steps....feel free. I actually recommended it so this will suit your own personal environment and needs. Do what you gotta do to make this work for you. Just don't nitpick me to death about your changes....this works for me.

3. This tek should produce results if you follow it properly. Grower error is about the only thing that can fuck a grow like this up. If you don't have result's like mine (and others)....your pretty much doing something wrong.

4. Your results will vary.

ALSO.....some tips before we start.....

1. Incubation = 78-82 degrees....dark and dry environment like a closet or a tub-in-tub.

2. Fruiting chamber = 68-72 degrees.....95% humidity. Add about 8-12 hour of light in a cycle.

3. Pick when the veil has broken and the cap is not flat just yet....the classic mushroom look.

4. I submerge my bulk-sub between flushes....fill tub with water for 24 hours...let the bulk-sub soak. Re-case and flush away....

5. Sterilize your tubs and needles and hands...etc etc. That is 100% up to you. I use the boiling water as a cheap pastuerizing......do it better if YOU want to.

Section 1

The LC....

You will need...

1. Plastic baby bottles...

2. RTV Silicone...

3. Karo Light Syrup.... (vanilla flavored is fine)

4. Distilled water....

5. Paper towels to wipe off silicone...it's messy sometimes.

6. Rags or hand towels...

7. Pot to boil water in....

Directions...

1. Take your silicone and apply a ample amount to the inside of the nipple. This is your self-healing injector site once dry. Let dry for 24 hours.

2. Fill clean baby bottle with 100cc/ml or 200cc/ml of distilled water depending on bottle size. Add 5-10cc/ml Karo for 100cc/ml...and 10-15cc/ml Karo for 200cc/ml.

3. Invert nipple upside down into bottle opening and screw the cap on 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Do NOT tighten cap all the way down. This allows venting while you boil it.

4. Place bottle/bottles into a pot with some rags on bottom so the bottle does not melt from the bottom heat. You may want to place some empty bottles along the outside so the LC bottle does not tip over during boiling.

5. Boil for 45 minutes on med/high heat.....make sure pot does not run dry. Cover and let cool with lids still loose.....if no lid...place a towel over the bottles while cooling. DO NOT SECURE LIDS WHILE HOT.....they will collapse under the vacuum. Wait until cool...then tighten hand tight.

6. Once cool (4-5 hours in most cases) tighten the lids and innoculate through the inverted silicone nipple. Keep at 78-82 degrees until healthy myc forms inside the bottle.

7. Place in fridge to stall growth and keep for many months.

There are good pics of myc on here somewhere....I cannot seem to take them as my camera focuses on the bottle edge. But here is what the bottle will look like when done....

61328434.jpg

53625131.jpg

Section 2

The WBS....

1. 1qt glass canning jars...

2. Tyvek mailing envelopes....

(Picuture 3)

3. Strainer/drainer....

4. Large spoon....

6. Rubbermaid plastic tub (6qt tub 3/4 full WBS will fill 5 of the 1qt jars)....

7. Wild Bird Seed (WBS)....

8. PC...

9. Micropore tape....

Directions...

1. Punture 3-4 holes in the lids of the quart jars.....use a puch or screwdriver or a drill. Make sure one hole is exactly in the center of the lid for innoculation.

2. Fill the rubbermaid tub about 3/4 full of WBS. Here is the WBS I use....it's at Wally World....

87945597.jpg

3. Place under bathtub faucet and allow sunflower seeds to float to the top. Scoop them out and repeat. Leaving some in is ok...but get most of them out.

4. Fill tub with water so all the WBS is submersed. Allow to soak for 24 hours. It should look like this...

79374449.jpg

5. After 24 hours place in strainer and let drain for NO LESS than 30 minutes.

6. Scoop WBS into glass jars about 3/4 full.

7. Cut the tyvek envelopes into squares large enough to place over jar.....they should overhang the rim by a good inch or more.

37029579.jpg

8. Place lid so rubber seal meets the rim of the glass.....then tyvek.....then ring. Getting the ring on can be tricky....just press hard while turning and it will fold the tyvek over and screw on. Remember it's lid first....then tyvek....then the ring. This will keep the tyvek from getting wet while shaking which can invite contams.

64443246.jpg

9. Place jars into PC and cook at 15psi for 60-90 minutes. I prefer 90....no it does not turn it to "mush."

10. Let cool and innoculate with your LC and cover hole with micropore tape......incubate at 78-82 degrees until jars are 10-15% colonized...then shake. Here is when I shake....

80265163.jpg

And almost finished jars...about 90%.

81640064.jpg

Section 3

The Coir Bulk.....

You will need....

1. Coir...(found at pet stores as lizrd bedding....compressed bricks of coconut fiber)

2. Rubbermaid 6qt tub...

3. Vermiculite...

4. 2 large pots...

5. Spent coffee grounds...about 1/4 to 1/2 cup or so....

6. Micropore tape....

Directions...

1. Boil some water in a large pot then turn off burner....use 1 gallon of water for 1 brick of coir....1/2 gallon of water for a 1/2 brick of coir...etc etc....

2. Place about a 1/4th of the coir brick into another pot and add the hot water to it slowly.....it will expand about 10X it's size, so it's best to add water to it instead

of it to the water. I use about 1/4th of a brick for a 6qt rubbermaid tub. You can add more or less to your desired effect. Break up the brick so it absorbs all the water and then cover with lid for 45-60 minutes until fairly cool enough to handle. Bricks look like this...

44498064l.jpg

3. After cooling, drain excess water by tilting the pot a bit.....you should still have alot of extra water in the bottom. Add the coffee grounds after draining a bit. Stir well.

4. Place 1/4 inch layer of dry verm onto bottom of the rubbermaid tub. Straight from the bag is totally fine.

6. Grab a handfull of the cooled coir and squeeze into a fist.....this will drain the excess water out. Spread about a 2-3 inch layer on top of the dry verm in the tub.

7. Add one of your finished WBS jars and mix it with the coir without mixing so deep that you disturb the verm on bottom. Mix with the top 3/4th's or so of coir and make it fairly flat without pressing/packing it down.....light and fluffy is what ya want.

8. Cover with foil and poke a few holes in it....cover holes with micropore tape. Keep at 78-82 degrees for about 5-6 days until fully colonized. Should look like this...

49701624.jpg

Section 4

The Casing

You will need...

1. Vermiculite...

2. Sphagnum Peat Moss...

3. Hydrated Lime...

4. Crushed AND Powdered Oyster Shells....

5. 2 medium sized pots

Directions....

1. Boil water in one pot then turn off burner. 1/3 gallon or so is plenty.

2. Add a 1:1 ratio of verm and peat moss to another pot....50/50...so 1 cup verm = 1 cup peat moss. 1-2 cups is about good for a 6qt tub....3-4 for a 12qt. It's

kinda a eyeball thing....never really measured it.

3. Add 2-3 teaspoons of lime and about 1/4 cup of crushed shells and 1/8 cup of powdered shells to the pot and stir into the 50/50 mix.

4. Add the hot water and stir very well. Place lid on top for 45 minutes. Here is what it looks like basically....

65574330.jpg

5. Once cool, take a handfull like you did with the coir and squeeze out the excess water. Place a 1/4 inch layer onto the colonized tray and go directly to the fruiting

area at 68-72 degrees. I personally DO NOT put my tray back into the incubator since I DO NOT want my casing to be colonized. When it is colonized it is nothing

more than part of the bulk-sub....it is no longer a barrier. Case it and put it straight to the lower temps and 95% RH of the fruiting area. Here is a cased tray....

23165845.jpg

Here is my double tubs after casing.... This may not work for you....you may need to seal your containers a bit better or use polyfill holes etc etc....

57548635.jpg

Thats it in a nutshell......someday I will make a more in-depth one and add more pics. Until then....enjoy. Feel free to fire away with any questions.....just don't tell me how your friend does it....I don't care. This is how I do it. Here are just a FEW of my results....

42854842.jpg

52963881.jpg

86195644.jpg

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73984303k.jpg

63249003.jpg

10ayr.jpg

This was the original version of HunterGT's "The Hunter's Process"

I didn't write this tek so if you ask questions all I can do is give you a general answer as to normal growth conditions, these are not my pictures either so if you ask me what strain they are I could only give you an educated guess (although a few are obviously PE).

IF IT ISN'T IN RED I DIDN'T WRITE IT

 

The Legendary Hunter Process... This was my first tek I ever tried out.Shroomology is very fortunate to have this. Thank you so much for posting. It will be kept here as long as I am alive.We :wub: ya HunterGT!!

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magicman

Damn I haven't seen that in a long time! Thanks for posting

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Flawedprophecy

We know you're still around Hunter, but not much.Still in our minds and our Myco hearts. :kneel:

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Those Who Were

Nice!!! I actually just emailed this tek in PDF format to a buddy from this site...what a coincidence..:)As MZ said, my first tek I ever followed.. Legendary..:)

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BEYOND2

since ive started mycology ive always done hunters WBS soak and it has never failedTHANKS HUNTER!!!!

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Flawedprophecy
:fluffy:

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MrFungi

The "late" HunterGT....I'm not fucking dead!!! Glad to see my tek is floating around somewhere. Gives my ego a nice stroking it deserves. B)

What's up Mr Gt? Glad to see your still alive brotha! Really nice tek and have to say very similar to Zombie's tubs Nice! When I did trays I used oyster shells which helped keep casing together during harvest but have never used powdered oyster shells... Any advantage to using the extra powdered shells? Perhaps extra ph insurance? I have been using bags for about a year now and ready to do the Zombie/Hunter tubs, :D Yea I guess I'm tired or screwing with the ecology! Lol Oh yea brotha! so tell me what tek are you partaking in these days?

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Mush Zombie

What's up Mr Gt?

Glad to see your still alive brotha!

Really nice tek and have to say very similar to Zombie's tubs Nice!

When I did trays I used oyster shells which helped keep casing together during harvest but have never used powdered oyster shells...

Any advantage to using the extra powdered shells? Perhaps extra ph insurance?

I have been using bags for about a year now and ready to do the Zombie/Hunter tubs, :D

Yea I guess I'm tired or screwing with the ecology! Lol

Oh yea brotha! so tell me what tek are you partaking in these days?

This tek disapeared completley from the internet one day. I was in the middle of growing with this tek when it vanished, and had to figure out a lot of it on my own. The all-in-one tek (how to grow mushrooms in bulk for beginners) is very similar to this, perhaps bc HGT made me learn it inside and out when he left. This tek was then resurrected because of it's sheer awesomeness, and probably a little sentimental value considering it bred some of the best growers on the internet.

HGT doesnt actually use powdered oyster shells. they are crushed. It's meant for birds to eat, but works great in a casing to give it some structure becuase it is chunks of oyster shell.

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MrFungi

Thanks Zombie, K got it brotha I did read back and sure enough Hunter did say "crushed and powdered oyster shells"... Perhaps he was referring to the powdered portion in the bottom of the bag... I'm definitely going to use oyster shells again when I case my zombie tubs ;) So Hunter I did notice you used 12qt tubs in one of your pics, 2 quarts of spawn?

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Mush Zombie

Thanks Zombie, K got it brotha I did read back and sure enough Hunter did say "crushed and powdered oyster shells"... Perhaps he was referring to the powdered portion in the bottom of the bag... I'm definitely going to use oyster shells again when I case my zombie tubs ;) So Hunter I did notice you used 12qt tubs in one of your pics, 2 quarts of spawn?

You are correct, use 2 qts of spawn for a 12qt. HGT hasnt been active for about 3 months, due to life circumstances. I am going to close this thread. Please direct all questions to general cultivation so that they can be answered effectively.

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