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  1. So without nutrient agar for the mycelium to feed on does it then turn upon itself to solidify and consolidate its advances?This is my first foray into agar and Petri and just really trying to get a grasp on it all. https://imgur.com/gallery/T3lB5kT
  2. This is a first time grain spawn using a spore syringe. Can anyone please identify if this is more likely like a cobweb mold or mycelium?
  3. MagicalCriminal

    GT spawn, 1st grow

  4. Hey all! i built my glovebox, gathered everything, and im ready make my jars and pc them. In the bulk tek, it wasnt super clear if you need the metal part of lid of the mason jar. I know it says poke a hole in it. I was under the assumption that if youre using tyvek and RTV as SHIP, the tyvek would allow gas exchange? If youre using the metal disc under the tyvek, why use tyvek at all if you can just use RTV silicone over the hole. Wouldnt there be no exchange if there are no holes with, say, micropore tape? Sorry if this is a newb question, just trying to understand.
  5. Maddhatter420

    Wbs No PC

    So, I accidentally wet some bird seed and said eff it. Washed, soaked, boiled the seed and steamed it in my giant pot for 90+ min on full boil. I split up my jars between a pf classic and an oyster mushroom that I obtained from a home depot kit(which was really fun to Play with Bee Tee Dubbz). I had made a few spore catching jars, with hanging a metal X over a jar of sterilized water(also steamed). Caught some spores, sucked em up in a sterilized plunger and inoculated. So far 2 out of the 6 got green yuck. But i think that was bc i over filled and unscrewed the cap a bit too much to shake it and caught a cold. So outside they went. Waiting for a warmer day to toss them in the yard someplace. Too cold to dig now... Yesterday I broke up the oyster WBs and layered it in a box w taped holes. Garbage bag bottom. I used Buffaloom as substrate. Coco coir, perilite, peat.. Seems to be a good fit. . We shall. See
  6. I innoculated these jars on 9/8. I feel like 4 are going really slow for some reason. Maybe they are colonizing in the middle of the jars instead of the outside? I drew lines where the myc was a couple days ago because I thought they stalled on me. What is yalls advice or thoughts. These are the "fast" ones And the slow ones Inc sitting at 78-79 constantly
  7. I'm very new, so far I was able to grow out the pf tek successfully using BRF a couple months ago and have been trying to expand my knowledge as much as I possibly can, trying as many techniques as I can. I decided to try rye grain jars, but after two sets (7 jars each time) of innoculating from multispore using two different syringes, I had no success. These were from a different vendor than what I used for my pf tek, so I tried a third set of jars using the last 5cc of a syringe I kept from my first grow. The spores germinated fine, but I am sure I got different amounts in each jar because one jar is almost 50% colonized, another is closer to 10 or 15%, the rest are somewhere in between. I feel like I should probably shake a couple of the jars but I don't think the slower jars are ready to shake....so my question is, if the jars finish at different times, does it hurt to leave the first colonized jars to sit and wait for the slower jars to catch up? I'd like to transfer all seven at the same time. I can get some pics of the jars later tonight if that helps.
  8. Well I just started this hobby in August and I have had some very mixed and bad luck getting viable spore syringes. I tried inoculating some rye grain jars from some golden teacher spores on 10/31 and still have not seen any growth. Then I tried another set of rye grain jars using some Ecuador spores on 11/6. Finally, a few days ago I spotted a tiny amount of growth in one of these jars. The picture was taken yesterday. To me it doesn't look very good, appears like it is very weak. What should I do, or what can I do with it? Is it possible that the spores I received were too old to be viable? Should I just let this jar continue as-is and see what happens?
  9. How far in advance of inoculation can I prepare rye grain jars? I have only prepped these one day before inoculation, but will they dry out if I wait longer? 1 week? 2 weeks?
  10. MushFlush

    Whole Oat Prep

    This is not my tek, but I like this grain and it works. My particular method is No Soak, No Simmer. That's just what I do. I did it with white millet forever, got turned on to this grain, simply loving it. NSNS is not for everyone, but if you do it right it works every time. I know there are other members here that use this grain, but prepare it different methods. If you are one of those, and you're reading this, please chime in with how you get your oats in a jar. This thread is WHOLE OATS PREP...so let's get a couple methods in the mix. You'll need: Widemouth Quart Jars Proper Grainspawn Lids WHOLE Oats (not steel cut, not rolled, not groats, not fried, not fricasseed...WHOLE. You can get 50lb bags at a farm n feed store, or online. Go for premium grade. Shit is cheap, so don't skimp) Measuring Cup Water *optional* Gypsum Here we go.... Step 1: Put 1 cup of oats in a jar Step 2: Put 2/3 cup (175 ml) of water in the oat jar **optional and what I do, mix a pinch of gypsum in a quart jar of water so it looks like dirty water. use that as your water** Step 3: Stir the contents to get the oats all wet. Lid up. Foil on top. Put in PC @15 psi for 90 min. Step 4: Once the PC drops pressure, carefully remove the jars with heavy gloves or oven mitt etc, and shake them. What you need to do is smack the jars on your hand to break up the mass really good, and hold it horizontal, shaking it forward, backward, side to side, tip it, twirl it...mix that shit up real good. Also, you can take the foil off at this point, no need trying to do all that and keep the foil on. its just a splashguard for the PC anyways. Set them in a cardboard box or back in the PC. Now over the next hour, repeat this process every 15 or 20 min, until the grains look 'wet' but don't stick together and fall freely within the jar. You can be more or less diligent. I tend to be more frequent while its hot. The moisture will distribute easier while its got some heat to it. The idea is to let it cool slowly, while mixing it up every so often, until its cool. You should end up with 2 cups of hydrated, mycelium soma, ready for you to inoculate with your species of choice. I hope this helps y'all get some great grain spawn. Flush that Mush! Anyone else that does a different method, please contribute and make this a full Tek worthy thread. Give everyone as many options as they need to rock it like a boss!
  11. Hey there, I've tried inoc'n twice now, 3 jars each time. Both times I waited about 2 to 2.5 weeks, and no sign of life was shown, neither myc or contam, I'm using the no fail wbs tek. Load 3 qts pennington classic wbs in 5 gal bucket. Load with water, skim out the black seeds and any dirt,twigs, corn, (anything not grain). I flush this several times till all the crap is gone and the water comes out clean and clear. Dump through strainer, rinse, comb again for any unwanted material. Put back in 5 gallon bucket and cover in boiling water and let soak for 90 mins. Strain, rinse thoroughly, load into qt jars on top of 1/4 cup of coarse verm. Place on tyvek easy lid, Cover top in tin foil PC for 90 mins at 15 psi and let cool over night. A few questions.. 1) I'm placing the WBS as soon as i rinse it off, into the jars. They stick together and the jar sids are covered in moisture, is this my problem? Am i supposed to let air dry for a few minutes before? 2) Is a flowhood or glovebox necessary? I know it's recommended but I keep it pretty clean and I practiced all the steriziling techniques. 3) I think I got a little more then 1cc of spore solution from a spore syringe, first time it was 3.5 cc per jar, last time it was 1.5. Could this have been the reason for no myc grow as well. 4) I PC the jars with the lid tighten fully. Is this supposed to be loosened a little bit or completely tight? Thank you for your patience and reading this.
  12. mushy-madness

    3 of the 4 tubs I have going right now (8-2013)

    From the album: First attempt!

    Growin three different kinds
  13. mushy-madness

    First attempt 4 of 4

    From the album: First attempt!

  14. mushy-madness

    First attempt 1 of 4

    From the album: First attempt!

  15. mushy-madness

    First attempt 2 of 4

    From the album: First attempt!

  16. mushy-madness

    First attempt 3 of 4

    From the album: First attempt!

  17. Okay, so I got really bored and creative this weekend and decided to build this and wanted to share it with you all. This is definitely nothing new or ground breaking, but I think I just improved upon the original way a hair. The Problem: Wild bird seed is very dirty. There's no way around it. It's grown outdoors, harvested with machines and treated and processed in factories. There's no need in sanitizing it since it's meant for wild birds and not human consumption. The Resolution: Washing it. Plain and simple; if something is dirty and you want it clean, you wash it. There are plenty tek's out there for this purpose and they're all great. This is just my way of doing it. Estimated time: Labor = Ten minutes Waiting = Twenty four hours Required Tools: Drill 3/4" Drill bit Plastic mixing tool of some sort- I used a plastic spoon Something to mix on, I used a plastic jar lid Materials needed, (and the cost at which I purchased them for): 5-Gallon bucket, $2.60 3/4" X 2" PVC SCHDL 80 Nipple Riser, $0.47 Loctite Plastic Epoxy, $5.47 Zinc Hose Y w/shutoff, $4.97 12 pack Yuengling, $8.69 (Optional) The Construction: I start out by drilling out a 3/4" hole about 2 inches from the bottom of the bucket. You want to make sure there is just enough room for the Hose Y to spin on the inside without getting stopped by the bottom of the bucket. Then, screw in the nipple riser until you can no longer see the threads. Grab the Hose Y and screw it all the way onto the nipple riser inside of the bucket. Now it's time to start mixing that epoxy I recommend mixing it for about 60 seconds. This stuff sets up slower than traditional epoxy and if you try to apply it too quickly after mixing it, you'll have a runny mess like I did. After you feel it start thicken up a little, go ahead and slop it on the inside and out of the bucket around the nipple riser. BTW, as an after though, i decided to add some bathroom caulk around this area as well to plug up any spots I missed and prevent leaks. (Optional) Drink your Yuengling while cleaning up the mess you just made. Allow the epoxy to cure for 24 hours prior to use. How to use: I grabbed a window screen and propped it up on a couple of bins and placed the contraption we just built on top of the screen. You'll see why momentarily. Screw your water hose on the outside of the bucket and turn it on. Look inside to ensure both shut off valves are open. Slowly pour your WBS into the bucket after it fills up with water. This will make it much easier to get rid of all those pesky sun flower seeds as they'll just stay afloat and not sink back down to the bottom of the bucket. This is why the window screen comes in handy; it's a lot easier to clean up your mess afterwards. Took me about 3 minutes total to drop a 20 pound bag of seed into the bucket. See how dirty the water is? Allow the water to run for about 5 minutes, then reach your arm in there and give it a good stir. repeat a few times until.. ..you see the water nice and clear as such. Take the bucket off the screen and clean up your mess. Conclusion: Now, from here you can use a variety of other teks out there. You can let your seed to sit in this very same bucket and hydrate for 24 hours by just reaching your arm in the seed and closing the shut off valves. You can toss the floating trash from the screen, then use that very same screen to toss your WBS on to get it out of the water and start a simmer tek. It's really all up to you. I hope you found this guide useful. Feel free ask me anything if I didn't make it clear enough and as always, happy harvesting!
  18. Grain to grain transfer is one of the best ways to expand your grain spawn greatly, using very little in comparison. In this tek I created 14 jars of grain spawn with one jar of grain spawn. However, 90% of contaminated subs come from contaminated grain spawn. It is VERY important that you be extra careful and practice sterile technique to the extreme. This is not one of those parts of the hobby where it is ok to cut corners. Use a glovebox or flowhood. Shroomology has a couple of excellent glove box techniques in the glove box tek section. First start by wiping everything down with iso alcohol including hands, arms, and jars completely. Bust your colonized jar of spawn to get it ready to pour. Next, loosen all the lids of the jars you will be transfering colonized grain to. You want to do this quickly to minimize exposure of air. Open up the jar of grain spawn and start pouring in some grain spawn into each jar, individually, by opening the jar, pouring it in, and closing it up immediatley. Shake your jars up very well, and its done.
  19. BEYOND2


    THINGS YOU NEED -JAR LIDS ANY SIZE WILL WORK -SCREW DRIVER OR NAIL -HAMMER -TYVEK(there free at your local post office) -RTV HIGH TEMP SILICONE -RAZOR KNIFE -PEN OR A PENCIL(OPTIONAL) -MAKING THE HOLES grab your hammer, screw driver(or nail), and jar with the lid on........ also make sure your center.... like so then make the holes and dont pound on the lids like you would nailing somthing to the wall youll break the jar.......it dont take that much stregnth to puncture the lids -MAKING THE TYVEK now grab the razor, the lid, and pen or pencil(optional)you can trace the lid with the pencil thn cut it out or you can just cut around the lid watever you thinks easier check it out thn grab the RTV SILICONE take the cut out of the tyvek and dab some silicone on..... again make sure your center like this NOTE: watever side you punctured will leave a bur like this now that side needs to be faced down like this NOT LIKE THIS it doesnt matter if you punctured the top or the bottom of the lids either....... they work both ways the reason why the burr needs to be facing down is because the tyvek will be sticking up and wont seal as well and will also allow for a higher rate of contamination in my experience so i always do it this way, now put the lids on first then the tyvek and seal that bitch LET IT DRY 24 HOURS BEFORE USE YOU CAN ALSO REUSE THEESE MULTIPLE TIMES IVE DONE IT................. AND YOUR DONE AS SIMPLE AS THAT -HERES THE END RESULTS
  20. WBS Prep: My WBS prep is pretty much the same as everyone else's, minus a few things that I do. I get the desired amount of WBS, I usually use the kind with cracked corn, and get a pot of BOILING water. Throw in WBS and stir that bitch or else it will stick to the bottom and smoke up you're house for about 5 minutes. Then turn off heat and let sit for 30, take of hot burner and place on the other cool one. Remember to stir about every five minutes to make sure they are evenly distributed. NEXT, begin rinsing them with COLD water until the water is clear. When that has been achived (cracked corn will make it really foggy and kinda soupish, don't worry because it will go clear eventually) put in a colinder and strain for 5 minutes. Kinda lift it up and hold it in you're hands and let it fall and stop it kinda fast and extra water will come out. There is no need for the way I do it for it not to clump or stick to stuck you put in it. That reason is because - next you add 1/3 part of DRY verm and mix it up well. You want it to be moist, but not so moist that when in a bowl you are mixing all this up there is water on the bottom. If that happens add SMALL amounts of verm until there is no standing water or pooling in the bottom. After you add the verm it might look moist but after this next part you will see what happens. Before that though load WBS/verm mix into empty jars as is and then do the whole Tyvek/rtv thing. Lids are up to you. Now, they are ready to be steamed. WBS Jar Steaming: Ok, this is no hard at all, if you can boil an egg you can do this. LOL Really, everyone has always said you need a PC to do grains and steam sterilizing wasn't possible. I disagree. For 2 years now I have maintained a 90%-95% success rate. I have lost one jar to bac in the last three months. And the 10 pints I will picture I had 100% success with. I even gave them SEVEN days before I nocced them to give myself extra fail potential. They were also done by my WBS prep method described above. Alright, here it is, and it is simply. First, you need a large pot with a lid, without the lid it will probably fail. I have super sealed it with 8 layers of tin foil before though and it works better because it keeps more of the heat/steam in. How to put you're jars in can be done a couple ways, but they CAN NOT touch the bottom of the pot. I used a canning pot that has a rack about an inch up from the bottom. Before I got that I used just a regular pot and then space jar rings place in the bottom of the pan as if they were on a jar. Fill up pot with warm water until it is 1/3 up the jars, there should be a fair amount of water in the pot. Turn heat to medium-high for first 15 minutes then crank that bitch up to high. Let this go for 2 and half hours but 3 is recommended. You will need to check on the water and make sre you refill it back to 1/3 the way up the jar after halfway through, maybe before if you got a nice stove. At the end of the time simply turn off heat. Let them set in the pot for 12-16 hours. Why do I do this? Remember up at the prep I didn't soak? Eh, eh? Well you don't need to soak. instead of soaking you go straight to heat, then the 12-16 hours acts as the soak in between but all you have to do is turn off the heat then turn it back on. Anyway, after this 12-16 hours repeat heating for 2.5 to 3 hours. Let set until room temp. If you want to be careful then you can wait a week before noccing, contam should show up by then so you don't waste spores.
  21. First the diclaimer, obviously I did not think of this tek on my own (other then my measurement that work for me) it is just a compilation... :DI have not soaked or simmered grains in a looong time and I have not yet lost a jar due to contam since using this method, and I also do rye and WBS the same way.I prefer white millet over any other grain, it colonizes way faster IME..I hope this will help you on your mycology adventure, follow this exactly as I spell it out and you will say fuck soak and simmer..Items needed:Quart jars with whataver lid tek you preferWhite milletMeasuring cupWaterAluminum foilPCFirst make any lid that you would like for your quart jarsMeasure out 350ml of white milletAdd to jarMeasure out 150ml of water, I use filtered waterPour water into jar with white millet and gently swirl aroundPut aluminum foil over topPut jars into PC and PC for 90 mins @15psiThis is what they look like right out of the PCNow this is the key point in this tek, as soon as the PC is cooled enough to open, take jars out and use a bike tire and shake the shit out of them to evenly distribute the moisture. You will notice some of the bottom millet will look saturated and the top will be drier, this is from expansion. However shaking will balance it all out I promise..Let them cool too the touch and shake them again. I personally shake them 6 times over a 24 hr period and they come out perfect and should look like this.Innoculate with your favorite strain and incubate at 80F and I usually have 100% or damn near 100% colonized jars in 7-10 days using LCAny questions dont hesitate to ask.As I said I exclusively use this method and havnt soaked or simmered grains in a long time...Works like a charm and saves you some time..Enjoy
  22. There are many ways to do this. This is my way. If you cant do it exactly the way I do it, just make it happen! Things you will need: [*]5gal bucket [*]Wild Bird Seed [*]Gypsum [*]Screen [*]Quart mason jars [*]Pressure cooker HOW TO: First we start with the Wild Bird Seed (WBS) Good bird seeds for this tek are ones that are cheap, have no fungicides. I get mine from wal mart, and reccomend wither the Economy mix, or Pennington Clasic. The economy mix is mostly Milo (AWESOME!) and is cheaper than the name brand by a couple bucks. Pour however much you need into the 5 gal bucket. 1 quart of dry WBS will generaly make about 2 quarts of WBS when soaked and PCed. First thing we want to do is get all the sunflower seed (or 95% of it) out of the good stuff. The sunflower seed can screw your jars up later on, and cause bacterial contam by being overly hydrated. So we do this by taking the bucket outside (or in the bathtub) and filling it up with a hose until it begins to overflow. The sunflower seeds will float and rise to the top then spill over onto the ground. Make sure you reach in there with a spoon, stick, or your hand and stir up any sunflower seeds that are trapped under the rest of the seed, to make sure most of the sunflower seed rise to the top and are pushed out. Let the bird seed soak for 18-24 hours. We do this because heat resistant bacterial endospores lie dormant in the grains. The soak is not to hydrate the bird seed so much, as it is to penetrate the hulls and germinate the dormant bacteria, so that we effectively kill them in the PC. While the bird seed is soaking you will need to construct your lids, and your filter disks. I suggest folowing this tek, its easy and the filter disks are free: easy tyvek lids. Once the soak is complete, dump the seed into a strainer, and rinse it very well (temp doesnt matter) until the water coming out of it is clear. This takes about 1 minute. Once the seed is rinsed well, lay it out on something to dry. A screen, a towel with a fan on it, whatever it takes to get it to dry. The bird seed will be ready when there is very little to no moisture on the surface of the grains. You can grab a handful and dump it, and only a little will stick to your hand. Once this is accomplished, load your bird seed into qt jars, to about the 3 cup line, install the lids, and ring, but only screw the ring down so that it jiggles a little. DO NOT tighten the ring down all the way. Load your dried bird seed into jars to the 3 cup line. Install your lids that you made here: easy tyvek lids Once you have done that screw the ring down Load your jars up into the PC and PC for 90 min @ 15 PSI. This means you set the timer for 90 min when the rocker begins to rock, not when you turn the stove on. You are now done. Let them sit in the PC overnight, and cool off, then shake them up before you inoculate. Enjoy!
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