Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Spawn'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Administrative and Introduction Forums
    • Welcome to Shroomology!
    • Computer and Internet Safety
    • Shroomology's Sponsors Forum
  • Mushroom Growing Help
    • Getting Started Growing Mushrooms
    • General Mushroom Cultivation Questions & Answers
    • Mushroom Cultivation Archives
    • Frequently Asked Mushroom Question
    • Contamination
  • Mushroom Growing Techniques, Equipment and Tutorials
    • Mushroom Growing Tutorials
    • Pre-TEKS
    • Member Grow Logs
    • Experimental Mushroom Cultivation techniques
  • Mushroom and Species Information
    • Psychedelic Mushroom Information
    • Medicinal Mushroom Information
    • Wild Mushroom Hunting/Foraging
    • Mushroom Recipes
  • General Interests, and Off Topic Forums
    • General Psychedelia
    • Cannabis, Cacti, and other Cool Plants
    • The Upper Decker
    • Non-Sponsor Vendor Review
    • Hall of Fame

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...

Found 26 results

  1. This is a first time grain spawn using a spore syringe. Can anyone please identify if this is more likely like a cobweb mold or mycelium?
  2. MagicalCriminal

    GT spawn, 1st grow

  3. I've got bags of sawdust/ wood chips that I inoculated with grain spawn. The spawn was so well mixed that it resulted in even spaced white polka dots. I dont believe it will ever turn solid white except on the bottom. It's been like 4 weeks maybe 3, the bag is a solid mass, but dang... when is it "fully colonized"? How do I tell? The top is "almost" covered in lumpy mycelium, but there is still uncolonized sawdust in between the spawn grains. The growth seems to be slowing in between grains. When is when? I've read about stalled fruiting because of incomplete colonization. Any input would be appreciated.
  4. I had 2x nicely colonized BRF jars so before I left on vacation and I crumbled them into some field moist sterilized substrate made of cpoo, verm & hardwood mulch. I used a 6QT tub lined with a thick black plastic bag. Here are the results after about 12 days. This is an experiment and I'm a noob so please keep that in mind.... My whole point in doing this was to see if I could make a bigger "cake" (its now a 4" x 13" x 9" brick) out of the 2x much smaller BRF cakes.... It looks like its working... is this fully colonized or should I give it some more time? let it pin? advice? any temperature/humidity advice? When its done, should I dunk it to re hydrate the brick and then case it with a 1/4" layer of verm? put it back in the black liner then case the top about 1/4"? My camera sucks.
  5. It seems I got a little carried away with adding substrate vs spawn grain amount, or may have not given my 6 Quart shoe box tubs enough FAE ability. The amount colonised is almost the same as it has been since day 7, it is now day 15. Note that the room all the tubs are in are kept at a stable 78-80F°. Tub at Day 7 Tub Comparison at Day 15 Pictures are obviously of the same exact tub, and the same side as the old picture. Although the mycelium has spread a little bit, it should be much more than that for a whole week to have gone by, should it not? I hear most spawn runs take only 10 days for 6 quart tubs. More photos for all angles of this exact tub: This is the top of what every tub looks like. Each tub was given five holes that were then double layered with Micropore tape. As for the micropore tape used: Was the double layering of the tape too much and limited the amount of gas exchange? Should I have only done one layer, or added more holes? Or was it simply that I clearly added way too much substrate. Sadly I have no photos of the grain spawn bags that were used, but they were all very healthy and fully colonised. The substrate is a 50/50 mix of straw and poo. Any idea on what to do? Make a few more holes and only one layer them with tape? Has it been too long to help? I've heard that after two weeks the likelihood of contam is higher.
  6. The bottom pic shows what they looked like BEFORE I shook them. The top pic is a day after I shook them. My question is, were they too colonized to shake? I’m now reading that if you shake them when they are more than 40% they may not recover. Ugh.... but if you don’t shake them you won’t see contams that may be infesting the middle....
  7. ... quite nicely with no visible contamination. I bought 2 tubs: 56Qt 23x16x12 in. and a 90Qt 29x13x18 in. The jars are 3/4 full. All the tek im reading says once the jars are fully colonized I need to mix it with pasteurized horse or cow shit and some say mix with Verm, etc... So my questions are: based on how manny jars I have (4) which tub should I use (I’m guessing the smaller one) and second what’s the ratio of substrate to colonized rye berry I should provide? I’d like to grow all 4 jars in a single tub if possible? Should I mix verm (and anything else) in with the hshit or use only hshit? How deep should the substrate be based on the # of jars I have? Sorry for the dumb questions... I’ll post some pic of the jars....
  8. Hello everyone. This is my first post here. I have become interested in growing mushrooms, and had a few general questions. I was wondering what one should do after each flush, do I soak, or spray, or leave alone? And for mushroom cultures can those store in the fridge for longer periods of time? Also during monotub cultivation, do yeilds drop on second flush if mushrooms are picked from the mycelium rather than cut? Any information is appreciated as I am just starting to learn about these things. I was looking at this tek if anyone was wondering;
  9. So still very new, but I enjoy experimenting. I may have lost a whole bulk grow container of Maui P due to over experimentation. However this Golden T seems to be right on. I am going for an early fruiting because I am running out of space in my 2nd master bathroom (aka my shroomery). Trying a bonafide grow light see if some urgency is put on the myc to fruit. Recipe is coco coir, verm, coffee, calcium magnesium zinc, baking soda and malt barley. spawn was straight popcorn (best spawn jars ever, no contamination in all 13 pint jars) I'll keep you posted on progress,but any suggestions?
  10. Long time visitor, first time poster. I am starting my first grow this week with 20cc of Alacabenzi's (From the SoS of course) and six sterile 8oz BRF/multigrain flour/Verm/gypsum substrate bags. I've purchased everything for a 48l monotub but am now hesitant to combine and commit all my spawns to a tub. I'm thinking of fruiting all 6 in their bags for the 1st flush and then making a bulk substrate (verm/coir+late casing) for the tub after. Is it a good idea to mix spawns to a bulk after they've fruited once? I am concerned of contaminating a tub on my first go and wasting it. Going with bags seems like less risk of contam. 6 seperate bags gives me 6 opportunities of success/failure rather than just 1 with a tub and allows me to make my $60 investment back. What would you do? Play it safe or Go Big or Go Home? also, I'm aware i don't need to mix all my spawns to my bulk but wouldn't there be an increased speed of colonization? Having a heavier myc -to- non-colonized sub ratio and all..? thanks in advance for any input!
  11. Hey all! i built my glovebox, gathered everything, and im ready make my jars and pc them. In the bulk tek, it wasnt super clear if you need the metal part of lid of the mason jar. I know it says poke a hole in it. I was under the assumption that if youre using tyvek and RTV as SHIP, the tyvek would allow gas exchange? If youre using the metal disc under the tyvek, why use tyvek at all if you can just use RTV silicone over the hole. Wouldnt there be no exchange if there are no holes with, say, micropore tape? Sorry if this is a newb question, just trying to understand.
  12. I have waited 7-10 days after full colonization was noticed when doing cakes as this is what the Teks suggest. Is this required when colonizing WBS? I have 5 quarts going, after the shake they exploded and colonized fast then I would have ever imagined. 5 days after the shake they are 100%. Should I wait another 7-10 days like with cakes or are they ready to spawn to bulk Now? Is there any benefit or draw back to either waiting or spawning now? Few photos of the progression, before the shake, a day after the shake and now.
  13. Hey hey!! I'm back in the game, woooo!! I need help, the best spawn for sclerotia bags?? fuvk yeah!! how y'all been?
  14. So far one brick of coir get 4 qts of water and throw into the oven. Pasturation is done. Now 4 containers with 2 tsp of water crystals and soaking in 4 qts of water.
  15. Normally I do a lot of little experiments with side by side test and never post anything about it cause it's not perfect science. I will also say I feel bad about never putting my data out there for the masses who do research before starting grows if I could have saved someone form a bad choice I'm sorry. Now what I did is knock up a lc with an isolate culture. Then after it grow it in many jars corn and oats. I took one colonized jars of each and spawned to a shoebox of straight coir and cased the top with 1/2 inch of pure coir. All done 7/6/17 Theory: Most growers feel corn has less myc cells around it and less food for myc to eat and fruit resulting in longer second stage spawn run and lower BE. Counter theory: Corn will perform at least 80% as oats and with 1/4 total cost of oats a suitable grain for growing. Measurements : Time is days colonized sub Time to pinning First flush yield. Total yeild : BE Contamination time and kind(blue molds love corn)
  16. First off I wanna say that this is my first post here! Happy I chose this community over "the other guys". Definitely not a stranger to growing small scale with PF Tek, but I am new to growing bulk. MZ's Monotub Tek looks extremely well thought out and promising, However... The only thing I'm concerned about is the ideal atmosphere for open air g2g transfers from a bag/jar into the monotub since all of that won't fit under my SAB? It doesn't seem to elaborate on how dependent the myc is on a clean atmosphere to not suffer from tams during the transfer process. Maybe it's because it's not as big as a deal now that the myc is grown strong? I would have no clue since I'm anal enough to play it safe and do everything I possibly can with gloves on under a SAB. I apologize in advance for any goofy formatting since I still have yet to feel this place out! Thanks Guys
  17. Apex

    Grain Bacteria

    So I knew using g2g for several generations would catch up to me. I have 6 or 7 wbs jars that are about 80-90% colonized but stalled due to bacteria. Will using these in tubs have a negative impact on the sub? Invite mold contains? Would you use them outside for a patch? Luckily I will be cooking up a batch of agar tonight. I still love g2g though. It was like a 5th generation transfer so go figure.
  18. Have several fantastic jars of popcorn spawn. Too fantastic. All but 2 have pins and several have full mushies growing up in the jars. Do I harvest the pins and move them into the bin, or try for a brf style harvest?
  19. Hey there, I've tried inoc'n twice now, 3 jars each time. Both times I waited about 2 to 2.5 weeks, and no sign of life was shown, neither myc or contam, I'm using the no fail wbs tek. Load 3 qts pennington classic wbs in 5 gal bucket. Load with water, skim out the black seeds and any dirt,twigs, corn, (anything not grain). I flush this several times till all the crap is gone and the water comes out clean and clear. Dump through strainer, rinse, comb again for any unwanted material. Put back in 5 gallon bucket and cover in boiling water and let soak for 90 mins. Strain, rinse thoroughly, load into qt jars on top of 1/4 cup of coarse verm. Place on tyvek easy lid, Cover top in tin foil PC for 90 mins at 15 psi and let cool over night. A few questions.. 1) I'm placing the WBS as soon as i rinse it off, into the jars. They stick together and the jar sids are covered in moisture, is this my problem? Am i supposed to let air dry for a few minutes before? 2) Is a flowhood or glovebox necessary? I know it's recommended but I keep it pretty clean and I practiced all the steriziling techniques. 3) I think I got a little more then 1cc of spore solution from a spore syringe, first time it was 3.5 cc per jar, last time it was 1.5. Could this have been the reason for no myc grow as well. 4) I PC the jars with the lid tighten fully. Is this supposed to be loosened a little bit or completely tight? Thank you for your patience and reading this.
  20. sandalphon

    brazil spawn

    From the album: happenings

  21. sublime

    Random multispore Cubie

    From the album: NOOB CUBE

    Lil baby dicks
  22. Austiclees

    Today I learned...

    ...that when you are spawning to trays and you poke holes in the foil that covers them... YOU SHOULD ALWAYS PUT TAPE OVER THE HOLES. I spawned a couple of WBS jars to some CMC/Verm/Coir and I ran out of micropore tape. This resulted in me only covered about half of the holes. ^This was on 10/25 Today I checked on it and holy crap!! The smell!! It was green, but not the kind of green you're thinking of. This was a slimy, putrid, oily green. Apparently a fruit fly thought my sub smelled awesome and decided to make a home there. There were a ton of fruit flies popping out of there. I'd of taken pictures, but I wanted that thing the hell out of my house! I thought I got rid of all the fruit flies that came in with the cracked corn... guess I was wrong
  23. Okay, so I got really bored and creative this weekend and decided to build this and wanted to share it with you all. This is definitely nothing new or ground breaking, but I think I just improved upon the original way a hair. The Problem: Wild bird seed is very dirty. There's no way around it. It's grown outdoors, harvested with machines and treated and processed in factories. There's no need in sanitizing it since it's meant for wild birds and not human consumption. The Resolution: Washing it. Plain and simple; if something is dirty and you want it clean, you wash it. There are plenty tek's out there for this purpose and they're all great. This is just my way of doing it. Estimated time: Labor = Ten minutes Waiting = Twenty four hours Required Tools: Drill 3/4" Drill bit Plastic mixing tool of some sort- I used a plastic spoon Something to mix on, I used a plastic jar lid Materials needed, (and the cost at which I purchased them for): 5-Gallon bucket, $2.60 3/4" X 2" PVC SCHDL 80 Nipple Riser, $0.47 Loctite Plastic Epoxy, $5.47 Zinc Hose Y w/shutoff, $4.97 12 pack Yuengling, $8.69 (Optional) The Construction: I start out by drilling out a 3/4" hole about 2 inches from the bottom of the bucket. You want to make sure there is just enough room for the Hose Y to spin on the inside without getting stopped by the bottom of the bucket. Then, screw in the nipple riser until you can no longer see the threads. Grab the Hose Y and screw it all the way onto the nipple riser inside of the bucket. Now it's time to start mixing that epoxy I recommend mixing it for about 60 seconds. This stuff sets up slower than traditional epoxy and if you try to apply it too quickly after mixing it, you'll have a runny mess like I did. After you feel it start thicken up a little, go ahead and slop it on the inside and out of the bucket around the nipple riser. BTW, as an after though, i decided to add some bathroom caulk around this area as well to plug up any spots I missed and prevent leaks. (Optional) Drink your Yuengling while cleaning up the mess you just made. Allow the epoxy to cure for 24 hours prior to use. How to use: I grabbed a window screen and propped it up on a couple of bins and placed the contraption we just built on top of the screen. You'll see why momentarily. Screw your water hose on the outside of the bucket and turn it on. Look inside to ensure both shut off valves are open. Slowly pour your WBS into the bucket after it fills up with water. This will make it much easier to get rid of all those pesky sun flower seeds as they'll just stay afloat and not sink back down to the bottom of the bucket. This is why the window screen comes in handy; it's a lot easier to clean up your mess afterwards. Took me about 3 minutes total to drop a 20 pound bag of seed into the bucket. See how dirty the water is? Allow the water to run for about 5 minutes, then reach your arm in there and give it a good stir. repeat a few times until.. ..you see the water nice and clear as such. Take the bucket off the screen and clean up your mess. Conclusion: Now, from here you can use a variety of other teks out there. You can let your seed to sit in this very same bucket and hydrate for 24 hours by just reaching your arm in the seed and closing the shut off valves. You can toss the floating trash from the screen, then use that very same screen to toss your WBS on to get it out of the water and start a simmer tek. It's really all up to you. I hope you found this guide useful. Feel free ask me anything if I didn't make it clear enough and as always, happy harvesting!
  24. WBS Prep: My WBS prep is pretty much the same as everyone else's, minus a few things that I do. I get the desired amount of WBS, I usually use the kind with cracked corn, and get a pot of BOILING water. Throw in WBS and stir that bitch or else it will stick to the bottom and smoke up you're house for about 5 minutes. Then turn off heat and let sit for 30, take of hot burner and place on the other cool one. Remember to stir about every five minutes to make sure they are evenly distributed. NEXT, begin rinsing them with COLD water until the water is clear. When that has been achived (cracked corn will make it really foggy and kinda soupish, don't worry because it will go clear eventually) put in a colinder and strain for 5 minutes. Kinda lift it up and hold it in you're hands and let it fall and stop it kinda fast and extra water will come out. There is no need for the way I do it for it not to clump or stick to stuck you put in it. That reason is because - next you add 1/3 part of DRY verm and mix it up well. You want it to be moist, but not so moist that when in a bowl you are mixing all this up there is water on the bottom. If that happens add SMALL amounts of verm until there is no standing water or pooling in the bottom. After you add the verm it might look moist but after this next part you will see what happens. Before that though load WBS/verm mix into empty jars as is and then do the whole Tyvek/rtv thing. Lids are up to you. Now, they are ready to be steamed. WBS Jar Steaming: Ok, this is no hard at all, if you can boil an egg you can do this. LOL Really, everyone has always said you need a PC to do grains and steam sterilizing wasn't possible. I disagree. For 2 years now I have maintained a 90%-95% success rate. I have lost one jar to bac in the last three months. And the 10 pints I will picture I had 100% success with. I even gave them SEVEN days before I nocced them to give myself extra fail potential. They were also done by my WBS prep method described above. Alright, here it is, and it is simply. First, you need a large pot with a lid, without the lid it will probably fail. I have super sealed it with 8 layers of tin foil before though and it works better because it keeps more of the heat/steam in. How to put you're jars in can be done a couple ways, but they CAN NOT touch the bottom of the pot. I used a canning pot that has a rack about an inch up from the bottom. Before I got that I used just a regular pot and then space jar rings place in the bottom of the pan as if they were on a jar. Fill up pot with warm water until it is 1/3 up the jars, there should be a fair amount of water in the pot. Turn heat to medium-high for first 15 minutes then crank that bitch up to high. Let this go for 2 and half hours but 3 is recommended. You will need to check on the water and make sre you refill it back to 1/3 the way up the jar after halfway through, maybe before if you got a nice stove. At the end of the time simply turn off heat. Let them set in the pot for 12-16 hours. Why do I do this? Remember up at the prep I didn't soak? Eh, eh? Well you don't need to soak. instead of soaking you go straight to heat, then the 12-16 hours acts as the soak in between but all you have to do is turn off the heat then turn it back on. Anyway, after this 12-16 hours repeat heating for 2.5 to 3 hours. Let set until room temp. If you want to be careful then you can wait a week before noccing, contam should show up by then so you don't waste spores.
  • Create New...