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  1. IF IT ISN'T IN RED I DIDN'T WRITE IT 1. This tek is my own and is not for sale/copy/paste/reproduction of any sort without credit to me and the website you found it at.... www.shroomology.com. You can copy/paste it for yourself or even for another website....but you better give credit to me and Shroomology. 2. I do things my own way....so if you or somebody else decides to do it a different way and tweak a few steps....feel free. I actually recommended it so this will suit your own personal environment and needs. Do what you gotta do to make this work for you. Just don't nitpick me to death about your changes....this works for me. 3. This tek should produce results if you follow it properly. Grower error is about the only thing that can fuck a grow like this up. If you don't have result's like mine (and others)....your pretty much doing something wrong. 4. Your results will vary. ALSO.....some tips before we start..... 1. Incubation = 78-82 degrees....dark and dry environment like a closet or a tub-in-tub. 2. Fruiting chamber = 68-72 degrees.....95% humidity. Add about 8-12 hour of light in a cycle. 3. Pick when the veil has broken and the cap is not flat just yet....the classic mushroom look. 4. I submerge my bulk-sub between flushes....fill tub with water for 24 hours...let the bulk-sub soak. Re-case and flush away.... 5. Sterilize your tubs and needles and hands...etc etc. That is 100% up to you. I use the boiling water as a cheap pastuerizing......do it better if YOU want to. Section 1 The LC.... You will need... 1. Plastic baby bottles... 2. RTV Silicone... 3. Karo Light Syrup.... (vanilla flavored is fine) 4. Distilled water.... 5. Paper towels to wipe off silicone...it's messy sometimes. 6. Rags or hand towels... 7. Pot to boil water in.... Directions... 1. Take your silicone and apply a ample amount to the inside of the nipple. This is your self-healing injector site once dry. Let dry for 24 hours. 2. Fill clean baby bottle with 100cc/ml or 200cc/ml of distilled water depending on bottle size. Add 5-10cc/ml Karo for 100cc/ml...and 10-15cc/ml Karo for 200cc/ml. 3. Invert nipple upside down into bottle opening and screw the cap on 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Do NOT tighten cap all the way down. This allows venting while you boil it. 4. Place bottle/bottles into a pot with some rags on bottom so the bottle does not melt from the bottom heat. You may want to place some empty bottles along the outside so the LC bottle does not tip over during boiling. 5. Boil for 45 minutes on med/high heat.....make sure pot does not run dry. Cover and let cool with lids still loose.....if no lid...place a towel over the bottles while cooling. DO NOT SECURE LIDS WHILE HOT.....they will collapse under the vacuum. Wait until cool...then tighten hand tight. 6. Once cool (4-5 hours in most cases) tighten the lids and innoculate through the inverted silicone nipple. Keep at 78-82 degrees until healthy myc forms inside the bottle. 7. Place in fridge to stall growth and keep for many months. There are good pics of myc on here somewhere....I cannot seem to take them as my camera focuses on the bottle edge. But here is what the bottle will look like when done.... Section 2 The WBS.... 1. 1qt glass canning jars... 2. Tyvek mailing envelopes.... (Picuture 3) 3. Strainer/drainer.... 4. Large spoon.... 6. Rubbermaid plastic tub (6qt tub 3/4 full WBS will fill 5 of the 1qt jars).... 7. Wild Bird Seed (WBS).... 8. PC... 9. Micropore tape.... Directions... 1. Punture 3-4 holes in the lids of the quart jars.....use a puch or screwdriver or a drill. Make sure one hole is exactly in the center of the lid for innoculation. 2. Fill the rubbermaid tub about 3/4 full of WBS. Here is the WBS I use....it's at Wally World.... 3. Place under bathtub faucet and allow sunflower seeds to float to the top. Scoop them out and repeat. Leaving some in is ok...but get most of them out. 4. Fill tub with water so all the WBS is submersed. Allow to soak for 24 hours. It should look like this... 5. After 24 hours place in strainer and let drain for NO LESS than 30 minutes. 6. Scoop WBS into glass jars about 3/4 full. 7. Cut the tyvek envelopes into squares large enough to place over jar.....they should overhang the rim by a good inch or more. 8. Place lid so rubber seal meets the rim of the glass.....then tyvek.....then ring. Getting the ring on can be tricky....just press hard while turning and it will fold the tyvek over and screw on. Remember it's lid first....then tyvek....then the ring. This will keep the tyvek from getting wet while shaking which can invite contams. 9. Place jars into PC and cook at 15psi for 60-90 minutes. I prefer 90....no it does not turn it to "mush." 10. Let cool and innoculate with your LC and cover hole with micropore tape......incubate at 78-82 degrees until jars are 10-15% colonized...then shake. Here is when I shake.... And almost finished jars...about 90%. Section 3 The Coir Bulk..... You will need.... 1. Coir...(found at pet stores as lizrd bedding....compressed bricks of coconut fiber) 2. Rubbermaid 6qt tub... 3. Vermiculite... 4. 2 large pots... 5. Spent coffee grounds...about 1/4 to 1/2 cup or so.... 6. Micropore tape.... Directions... 1. Boil some water in a large pot then turn off burner....use 1 gallon of water for 1 brick of coir....1/2 gallon of water for a 1/2 brick of coir...etc etc.... 2. Place about a 1/4th of the coir brick into another pot and add the hot water to it slowly.....it will expand about 10X it's size, so it's best to add water to it instead of it to the water. I use about 1/4th of a brick for a 6qt rubbermaid tub. You can add more or less to your desired effect. Break up the brick so it absorbs all the water and then cover with lid for 45-60 minutes until fairly cool enough to handle. Bricks look like this... 3. After cooling, drain excess water by tilting the pot a bit.....you should still have alot of extra water in the bottom. Add the coffee grounds after draining a bit. Stir well. 4. Place 1/4 inch layer of dry verm onto bottom of the rubbermaid tub. Straight from the bag is totally fine. 6. Grab a handfull of the cooled coir and squeeze into a fist.....this will drain the excess water out. Spread about a 2-3 inch layer on top of the dry verm in the tub. 7. Add one of your finished WBS jars and mix it with the coir without mixing so deep that you disturb the verm on bottom. Mix with the top 3/4th's or so of coir and make it fairly flat without pressing/packing it down.....light and fluffy is what ya want. 8. Cover with foil and poke a few holes in it....cover holes with micropore tape. Keep at 78-82 degrees for about 5-6 days until fully colonized. Should look like this... Section 4 The Casing You will need... 1. Vermiculite... 2. Sphagnum Peat Moss... 3. Hydrated Lime... 4. Crushed AND Powdered Oyster Shells.... 5. 2 medium sized pots Directions.... 1. Boil water in one pot then turn off burner. 1/3 gallon or so is plenty. 2. Add a 1:1 ratio of verm and peat moss to another pot....50/50...so 1 cup verm = 1 cup peat moss. 1-2 cups is about good for a 6qt tub....3-4 for a 12qt. It's kinda a eyeball thing....never really measured it. 3. Add 2-3 teaspoons of lime and about 1/4 cup of crushed shells and 1/8 cup of powdered shells to the pot and stir into the 50/50 mix. 4. Add the hot water and stir very well. Place lid on top for 45 minutes. Here is what it looks like basically.... 5. Once cool, take a handfull like you did with the coir and squeeze out the excess water. Place a 1/4 inch layer onto the colonized tray and go directly to the fruiting area at 68-72 degrees. I personally DO NOT put my tray back into the incubator since I DO NOT want my casing to be colonized. When it is colonized it is nothing more than part of the bulk-sub....it is no longer a barrier. Case it and put it straight to the lower temps and 95% RH of the fruiting area. Here is a cased tray.... Here is my double tubs after casing.... This may not work for you....you may need to seal your containers a bit better or use polyfill holes etc etc.... Thats it in a nutshell......someday I will make a more in-depth one and add more pics. Until then....enjoy. Feel free to fire away with any questions.....just don't tell me how your friend does it....I don't care. This is how I do it. Here are just a FEW of my results.... This was the original version of HunterGT's "The Hunter's Process" I didn't write this tek so if you ask questions all I can do is give you a general answer as to normal growth conditions, these are not my pictures either so if you ask me what strain they are I could only give you an educated guess (although a few are obviously PE). IF IT ISN'T IN RED I DIDN'T WRITE IT   The Legendary Hunter Process... This was my first tek I ever tried out.Shroomology is very fortunate to have this. Thank you so much for posting. It will be kept here as long as I am alive.We ya HunterGT!!
  2. How to grow shrooms in bulk monotub tek, and how to build a monotub. Need spores? Please support our sponsors! For mushroom spores visit sourceofspores.com Coupon code "shroomology" gets you a discount on your entire order. NO MISTING AND NO FANNING ALLOWED! Update April 2018: A grow kit has been made for this tek, if you want to skip all of the hard labor of creating and sterilizing your own grain spawn and substrates, and have someone who has been doing this tek for more than 10 years make it for you, order the grow kit here from Mycology Kits online store: https://mycologykits.com/shop/grow-kits/monotub-bulk-substrate-fill-kit/ SECTION 1 Monotub Design: These designs are for the STERILITE 60 QT, but apply to any tub you have, with some modification on your part. There are several designs for monotubs. If you get a tote that is larger or smaller, than the sterilite 60qt, and you plan on using my sub prep method, you will have to increase/decrease everything in this tek accordingly, and may need to add weather stripping to the lip of the tub so that there are not any gaps, creating too much FAE. These monotubs will have about, a 4 1/2" deep substrate if you follow my substrate prep contained herein. Cased Sub Monotub Design: This design is very simple, but the hole placement is key here for optimal evaporation from the casing layer, and surface of the sub, while maintaining proper RH. The hole placements will be large 1" x 1" holes up top, and small 1/4" holes in the bottom of the tub. "Bottom" meaning 5" above the bottom of the tub. There are many ways to cut the large holes in the top of the tub. You can use a spade bit, a dremel cutting bit in a regular drill, a hot knife, or a soldering iron. Be creative and know that all the ways i mentioned except for the knife are efficient. The small holes I use a 1/4" drill bit and a drill to drill the holes around the bottom. Make the bottom holes about 1" to 1 1/2" apart from each other. Section 2: Monotub Sub Prep: You can use whatever substrate you like in your monotub, but this is how I do it and it is VERY simplified. Things you will need: 5 gallon bucket large tote (for mixing sub in not the monotub) 1/2 brick of Coco Coir Pot to boil water in 6 qts COARSE grade vermiculite 4 qts cmc/HPOO (Cow manure compost/ Horse Poo) Hydrated/Pickling lime 8 cups of water. Large oven bag 16qt(or larger) Pressure cooker Coco Coir can be found in Petsmart or any pet store that sells reptiles. It is used for reptile/arachnid bedding. Bring 8 cups of water to a boil. Cut brick of coir in half Put coir in a 5 gallon bucket Pour boiling water over coir cover with the bucket lid or a towel for 15 min stir coir up so that it is all broken up, evenly distributed, and fluffy Allow coir to sit for 1 hour, covered, to hydrate fully. While the coir is cooling, move to the next part of sub prep Pour 4qts of cmc/Hpoo into a large tote for mixing. Add 2 TSP of lime (to buffer PH of poo and coir. it is required for multiple flushes). Mix as well as humanly possible. Add 6 Qts of COARSE grade verm. (YES it must be coarse grade) mix well again. After the one hour cool time for the coir, dump the entire contents of the 5gallon bucket into the large tote. Mix well This mix should come out to perfect field capacity (moisture content is key here). Field capacity is when you can grab a handful, squeeze it and a little water can bead up at the knuckles but should not be dripping. When you losen your grip the substrate should remain in the collapsed form. This is close to field capacity, a bit too wet IMO, but will work ok. If your sub is any wetter than this, you will nee to add verm to it until it is field capacity. One little drip due to gravity is ok though. If your sub meets these requirements, load it into an oven bag, squeeze the air out (you can compact the sub in the oven bag) and seal the bag with the seal tie that came with the bag. poke two small holes in the top of the oven bag cover holes with micropore tape tape down any excess of the bag to the main body of the bag. This is to prevent the excess from clogging the rocker pipe of the pressure cooker. Pressure cook the substrate for 90min @ 15PSI Let cool in PC overnight. Section 3: SPAWNING TO THE MONOTUB Things you will need: 6 qts spawn Black Trashbag (preferably contractor or yard) Micropore tape Aluminum Foil Polyfill pillow stuffing Isopropyl Rubbbing Alcohol Line the tub with the black trash bag. I just put the whole thing in there. Dump the whole oven bag of PCed substrate into the trashbag lined tub, making sure not to get any behind the trash bag (you can tape the bag up to the walls of the tub if you need to). Dump all your spawn on top of the sub. Mix very well making sure to get along the edges, and especially in the corners of the tub. Make sure to make the sub as flat as possible without packing down the sub. it is okay to pack it just a little bit to make the surface flat, but not very much at all is ok. Use very little force. (being flat will ensure a good probability of an even pinset) Once that is done line the sub with foil, poke a few holes in the foil, and cover them with micropore tape. Cover the bottom holes with micropore tape, and stuff tight balls of polyfill into the top holes, so that they dont come out easily. Put the lid of the tub on and incubate @ 80-82* F for 10 days. It does not matter if there is light or not. Section 4: FRUITING After the 10 days colonization period, you can bring the tub out to fruiting conditions. To do this remove the foil, cut the trashbag down below the bottom holes (this works best with a utility knife, or exacto knife) Apply a casing layer of your choice (I prefer 50/50+ or just regular 50/50) that is between 1/4" - 1/2" deep. Make sure that the casing is porus not a flattened mat, and not over field capacity. Mist the walls of the tub. Put the lid on. Set in an area where there is natural ambient lighting (NO DIRECT SUNLIGHT) Temperatures between 68-72*F are optimal for this tek. In the fruting area there should be a fan to circulate air, making for a good slow even FAE rate inside of the monotub. Depending on your strain of choice it can take between 5-14 days for pinset. No Misting, No fanning.

    I take no credit for this tek. I learned it here from other members. I am only posting this bc people ask me how I do things often. So here it is, I hope it is acceptable. I Feel that it is now necessary to add this disclaimer. If this tek is not followed exactly as it is written it may not work very well. The design, and environmental for this type of tub are VERY specific for it to work as seen in my pictorial. If you want to have as great of success as I do, please follow the tek in its entirety. I once thought that this tek would be friendly to all, but it has created challenges for some, so I must say this is not for everyone, as I previously thought. I wish anyone who wants to try this maintenance free tek the best! Things you need- 2 6qt plastic bins (wally world, and dollar tree $1 a peice Measuring tape/ ruler Marker A drill or dremel tool. A dremel cutting tool ($6) Polly fill (wal mart about $4) Isopropyl alcohol Duct tape, or Gorrlla tape Aluminum foil 1 qt of 100% colonized spawn Bulk Substrate of your choice. Vermiculite Micropore tape Gloves Dust mask/or mask of some sort Antiseptic mouthwash Lysol/Oust/ something like that Heres what your tub should look like before you put your sub and spawn in it, just so you can get an idea of what this tek is about: First lets understand how this type of dub tub works. You don't have to mist or fan! This is because holes are cut in the top tub, and bottom tub. Fresh air is pulled through the top holes of the top tub, and into the bottom tub, as the heavier carbon dioxide gases escape from the bottom holes, creating FAE. So your sub or casing must be completely flush with the bottom holes, and have the proper moisture content, from the beggining, for this tub configuration to be effective. How to build: First get both of your tubs ready for cutting. Make your marks for where you're going to cut. You will want the sub to be 2-3" deep. 3" preferably. However, you should make sure that there is enough room between the top and buttom tubs, for your mushrooms to grow. It's not uncommon for me to get 10 inch mushrooms with a 3" sub on the third flush. I prefer the tubs from dollar tree. They are a little taller, and much more sturdy, than the 6qt tubs from walmart. They also have a big lip, so taping is much easier. The holes should be 1/2" x 1/2". The larger the holes, the harder it will be to maintain proper RH. So if you mess up and cut a little too big, don't freak out and throw them away!It is VERY IMPORTANT that holes on the bottom tub be level with each other, so that the sub/casing is completly flush with the holes, for proper FAE. After you make your marks, get your drill/dremel tool, and dremel cutting tool ready. Here is what the dremel cutting tool looks like: Cut your holes! This will take a little getting used to. Once you get the hang of cutting with that tool its easy. Just hold the tub firm (I used my feet! One inside, one outside, pressed to the bottoms of the tub ) Start on the right hand side of the hole you are cutting. Pull the trigger of the drill, and push the cutting tool gently into the plastic until it cuts through. Hold that drill tight, so it doesn't slide to the right, out of control! Then just push left in the direction you want to cut! You'll get it. Cut two holes , at either end of the long sides of the tubs. The holes being at the very top of the long sides of the top tub, and 2-3" up from the bottom, on the sides, of the bottom tub. You will want all the holes to be between 1/2" x 1/2 " to 1"x1". Keep in mind that the larger the holes, the more fresh air, but also this will lower RH, to the point that you will have to pull the polyfill out, and manually mist... So keep it as close to 1/2"x 1/2" as is comfortable to you. Heres what it looks like: Put the polyfill in the holes at this point. You will want to pull it though, so that its not stuffed in the holes tight, inhibiting airflow. You want the polyfill to be loose, but not loose enough to fall out, so that it looks like the first picture in this thread. Now you have constructed your awesome dub tub... What will you do next? ADD BULK SUB, AND SPAWN THATS WHAT! So there are many subs you can use, and that is up to you! What works best for you, is the way you should do this. It's your hobby, do it the way you want to, but whatever you decide make it enjoyable! SPAWNING First you will want to spray the air in the spawning room with lysol, oust, or whatever you use to clean the air, take a shower, and put on freshly laundered clothes, if you are going to wear clothes (I usually just wear underwear ) brush your teeth, rinse with antiseptic mouthwash, and put on your gloves and mask on. Wipe the inside of the tubs clean with your Isopropyl alcohol, (practice sterile technique) then, after its all dry, add a thin layer of verm in the bottom of your tub, enough to cover the bottom completely, but not more than that: The pupose of doing this is to allow the verm to absorb any extra moisture/condensation that should not be standing in the bottom of the tub, while giving a resivior for the myc to pull moisture from. Next add 1 quart of your chosen substrate, or enough to fill the tub about an inch deep. Then add your spawn. Mix this gently, so as not to disturb the verm in the bottom TOO MUCH, but get the spawn into the bottom of the sub. You're probably not going to be able to mix it without disturbing some of the verm. And thats okay. Continue to fill the tub with substrate, mixing it in with the spawn. If you are going to case your sub, leave room for the casing, so that it can be flush with the bottom holes. If you're not going to case, fill the tub with spawn until it is flush with the bottom holes. You will want to try to make this sub as flat as possible (if you are going to case), without compacting it down. You want it light and fluffy for the myc to be able to colonize it quickly, during the spawn run. Cover the substrate with foil, and poke a few holes in it for gas exchange. Cover the holes with micropore tape. INCUBATION/SPAWN RUN Put this in your IC at 80-82*F until 100% colonized. ( I will add a pic of this soon) This takes between 5-10 days. Here is what that PE dub tub, above, looked like after being in the IC for 3 days @82*F: FRUITING After 100% colonization of the sub, remove your dub tub from the IC, case your sub if desired, with whatever casing you like (it is recommended that you case with this set up), and mist the inside of your top tub with distilled water. Attach the top tub to the bottom tub, and COMPLETELY seal the two tubs together with duct tape or gorilla tape. Do not open until its time to harvest, unless its an emergency Put this tub in your fruiting area, with appropriate lighting, and temperatures, preferably between 68-72*F, for best results. Also it will help to have air movement from a slow moving fan in the room with these, but I have done this with success with no fan at all SIDE PINNING To prevent side pins (this is a must) cover the areas where you can see mycellium, in the tub with either GORILLA (solid black) tape, or something opaque taped to the outside of the tub, like a black trashbag. You can also line the inside of the tub with a black trashbag, before you spawn, but you wont be able to check the mycelliums growth if you go that route. I get the best results by lining the tub with a black trashbag and spawning into it. Recent success: That was just a coir substrate, no additives, or anything. About 2 oz. dry. Just some zombie tub results I got using this tek..Penis Envy in 6qt zombie tubs FTW!!!!!
  4. If you want to learn how to grow magic mushrooms in bulk, that is cost effective, and easy, then you have just found the best source of information on the internet! Although this tek is primarily geared towards learning how to grow psilocybin mushrooms (psychedelic mushrooms, hallucinogenic mushrooms, shrooms, whatever you want to call them), you can use this tutorial to learn how to grow several edible and medicinal species of mushrooms. You will need to read this whole page, probably more than once, so bookmark it! I hope you just read that. On this page I will walk you through a few of the most popular techniques people have use to learn for many years. There are more ways than just the three most popular that you will find on this page, but if you want to learn how to grow shrooms, these are the best there are for practicality, quality, potency, and total yield. Before you begin you will need mushroom spores or cultures to grow your shrooms with (if you have no idea what "magic mushrooms" are, the most common one is psilocybe cubensis. This is a tek for growing psilocybe cubensis mushrooms mainly as they are easy, but others can be grown with this). Don't get ripped off because you can find a website that sells them dirt cheap! Buy from reputable quality vendors, and you will get quality products. I cannot stress how important it is to obtain quality spores from a quality source. If you like shroomology, and like my tek I have shared with you, please support our sponsors. We stay online with your support!