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Found 56 results

  1. Opps
  2. Long time no see guys, I just read up on the 6 Quart Dub Tub technique as I have renewed my interest in growing cubes after finding some yellow fly agaric yesterday. The fly agaric wasn't consumed because I'm still a bit unsure of the trip and toxicity. ANYWAY, I'm interested in the 6 Quart Dub Tub Tek. I noticed there is now a link to a site that sells premade spawn grain and substrate bags. My question is, with that substrate containing horse manure and lime and gypsum, what kind of casing layer would be used? Do you need a casing layer for that type of substrate? Some info on using the premade spawn grain and substrate would be helpful, thank you!
  3. Ok, so I need some assistance. In the past I helped a friend with his cultivation and picked up some great tips and tricks along the way. Here I am 7 years later and I am starting up my own cultivation and experiments. So far I have crafted a glove box out of a clear, weatherproof tote that worked very well for the inoculation process. I have also designed and created an incubation chamber out of an ice chest, a reptile heating pad, and an on/off thermometer switch. It's working great and I am currently two weeks past inoculation with amazing and beautifully healthy mycelium. I've broken it up twice already (it's on grain spawn) but I think I will need to do this more often, the second time was fairly difficult to break up. Moving on to why I am posting this in the first place..... I have uploaded a picture here. It's a crude drawing on paint but I think it is fairly comprehensible. Basically I designed this fruiting chamber off some similar work I did with my buddy 7 years ago and wanted to run it past the minds on this board to see what you all think, and what could be improved. The idea here is that once I swap to my bulk sub (coco+verm) in a Sterilite 6qt. "shoebox" and it is fully inoculated I will place the box into the fruiting chamber (a larger Sterilite) and from there it should be pretty much automated until it's time to harvest. I'll have four of these fruiting chamber total to start, but there is one air pump and fogger for every two chambers, hence the drawing. Before you ask why the 4 chambers as opposed to one or two monotubs there are several reasons. One is space, this setup fits into my closet much nicer than the larger tubs. Second is quality, if there is an issue with one for any reason I can toss it and still have the others. Third is experimentation, this will allow me to try different subs at the same time on the same strains for a side-by-side comparison. Last is quantity, I can cultivate different stains at the same time or rotate them in a manner that allows for near constant harvesting if done properly. The airpump and fogger/mister are hooked up to the same power supply, which will be kicked on and off either by a timer or by a hydrometer placed inside one of the chambers for FAE and humidity. This way I can either use a timer to kick on the automated FAE several times a day or set the hydrometer to something like 100% humidity which will kick on when it drops below that. Whether or not to go with a timer or a hydrometer is one thing I would like to answer here with your help. The fogger/mister water will likely have about a cap full of hydrogen peroxide just to help cut down on any possible contams. The air from the pump will be fed into the fogger/mister pot and will in turn feed the humidified air from there into the fruiting chambers. The 6qt. "shoebox" will be raised off the floor of the fruiting chamber, this should allow the CO2 to sink to the bottom of the chamber and be expelled through a one-way valve whenever the airpump/fogger/FAE system kicks on. So, thoughts? Critiques? Wanna tell me how stupid this is? Or is it brilliant? Kinda piecing it together from memory of when I helped my buddy as well as some modification from my own thoughts. His setup worked great so I know something like this is doable...... well?
  4. Crackeddoor

    First bulk pic log

    Hello this is my first bulk grow I owe completely to this site ,I had a case of jars and decided to do 2 dubs,2 rez,and a mono,the dubs are fruiting great ,the mono is full of pin ,and I lost both rez...I'm hooked I love this , the complexity ,the surgical tediousness, all the different types of equipment .... Anyway I suck at typing so here pics of my trip..
  5. So on 2/4 I spawned 3 quart rye berry jars to bulk (verm, hpoo, calc, etc), temp @ 80 degrees. The sub is kinda thick and I made it a tad above field capacity (PE like moisture). I uncovered to take some pics and it looks like the Myc is working its way thru the sub (joy).... My question is when should I case it? when the entire surface is covered? or can I case it now?
  6. Here are 2 different tubs of PE where I'm using a smaller tubs I've noticed that around the edges it is shrinking considerably even though I have moisture around the tub, here is a picture to see what you guys think and any advice. Any tips would be great thank you.
  7. So I just noc’d up 4 rye berry jars with a spore syringe of penis envy. Reading a lot of conflicting info re this strain. What I’ve taken away from my research is: PE colonizes (time) just like any other cube PE likes more substrate moisture than other cubes. PE fruits slower than other cubes. Type of substrate nutrient & FAE has a lot to do with how big they get. Otherwise they fruit small. PE like more FAE. Is the above accurate or a culmination of BS?
  8. I had 2x nicely colonized BRF jars so before I left on vacation and I crumbled them into some field moist sterilized substrate made of cpoo, verm & hardwood mulch. I used a 6QT tub lined with a thick black plastic bag. Here are the results after about 12 days. This is an experiment and I'm a noob so please keep that in mind.... My whole point in doing this was to see if I could make a bigger "cake" (its now a 4" x 13" x 9" brick) out of the 2x much smaller BRF cakes.... It looks like its working... is this fully colonized or should I give it some more time? let it pin? advice? any temperature/humidity advice? When its done, should I dunk it to re hydrate the brick and then case it with a 1/4" layer of verm? put it back in the black liner then case the top about 1/4"? My camera sucks.
  9. In 16 days (10/26) I have to go away for 10 days (26 days). I don't have anyone to manage things while I'm away. Based on the condition of the jars should I: 1) Transfer to bulk "before" I leave for 10 days - I'm thinking this would be just enough time for colonization of the substrate and once I get back I could start the fruiting process? 2) Refrigerate the jars now - to slow down colonization, and transfer to bulk when I get back (would that work?). Help!
  10. The bottom pic shows what they looked like BEFORE I shook them. The top pic is a day after I shook them. My question is, were they too colonized to shake? I’m now reading that if you shake them when they are more than 40% they may not recover. Ugh.... but if you don’t shake them you won’t see contams that may be infesting the middle....
  11. Hey everyone !! Hope I am in the right place ...couldn't figure out with the life of me how to post on here but .... I think I am doing it now lol soo... correct me if I am wrong . Just did some rye grains and then worked PERFECT and I wanted to share my tek for bulk growing with rye and horse manure
  12. Hello I am very new to this page as well as the growing process. I obtained 2 quart jars not quite full with birdseed mycelium almost ready for the next step. first question/fear: I was given these cold, from the refrigerator, is the mycelium still alive? second longer question: researching casting ingredients I've found people using; Coir, coffee grounds, sawdust, course vermiculite, sphagnum peat moss, hydrated lime, crushed oyster shells, seed starter. what are the advantages and disadvantages to using different materials if this mix is supposed to be lacking nutrients wouldn't seed starter and peat moss have nutrient? I was given the tip to take a couple tbsp at a time of my birdseed mycelium, put it in a blender (possibly with the casting), and then put it in the dish I want to grow in. ??? this doesn't make a lot of sense to me but i don't really want to ask this person to explain again. does anyone know what they may have been referring too. If this is not how its done then do you just layer the mycelium in-between two layers of casting? Thanks in advance. Im excited
  13. Hey community, I'm ready to harvest my first flush of mushrooms from a bulk substrate in a tub. If I want to pick all now and wait until tomorrow to dunk the substrate, will that impact the second flush? Is it better to dunk ASAP? Have a good understanding of the dunking process from other forums, but any additional dunking tips appreciated! Thanks
  14. I have waited 7-10 days after full colonization was noticed when doing cakes as this is what the Teks suggest. Is this required when colonizing WBS? I have 5 quarts going, after the shake they exploded and colonized fast then I would have ever imagined. 5 days after the shake they are 100%. Should I wait another 7-10 days like with cakes or are they ready to spawn to bulk Now? Is there any benefit or draw back to either waiting or spawning now? Few photos of the progression, before the shake, a day after the shake and now.
  15. Hey Everyone, Thanks so much for all the great info. Made my first ever grow super easy and looking forward to many more. I have a couple questions and I'm hoping someone can answer. Really any insight or info will help! Questions correspond with the pics accordingly. 1) I included a pic of my first flush of PE mushrooms. Is it normal for them to all grow on top of each other like that? Any glaring problems or things that look like I could have done better (ie more FAE, less humidity, more light, etc..) 2) See how some of the shrooms have dark blue stamen.. Are those okay to eat? I think I know what happened, but could be wrong. I left them out in direct sunlight for a couple hours, also in a room that got down to 60F. Came home and they were all shriveled up.. some of my biggest so far too. 3) Some of the shrooms had these busted caps. I read this was can be caused by lack of light (hence why I put in direct light.. I know, stupid impatient mistake). Are they okay to eat? Is that in fact the case? Any other info would be greatly appreciated! Just want to learn as much as possible before my next grow.
  16. Lebmartin

    Time to go big

    Well I've gotten pretty comfortable with cakes and growing the shrooms, I've had a couple ounces now between the last couple batches. It's not quite as much as I expected and it's all been from MS as well. I'm looking to move forward and get into bulk growing with hgher quality spores. I also would like to get into using spore prints, but I have no idea how to use them or make liquid culture, none of that. All I know is the cake stuff. I was wondering what my next step should be. Which shrooms to buy? What materials? Which tek is the easiest for a novice like myself to start with? Some advice would be useful, I'd appreciate it.
  17. colddayinapril

    Grow Log

    So about seven months ago I started browsing this forum and developing a plan to get my grow on. I found everyone here to be super helpful and friendly and getting my grow started was one of the best hobbie experiences of my life! I promised then that I would share my results with all of you but, as often happens, life got a bit in the way. A new job, a new city, a new everything and it's been nearly half a year since I made that promise. But, I'm back. And I'm here to deliver! This pictures show my journey over about two months using spore syringe to pre-made rye berries bags to mono tubs. I had some trouble at first by not breaking up and shaking the bags which caused some delays in initial colonization. I also had a tam scare in two of the bags. I colonized one tub first with the two good bags. The two with questionable tams I isolated and then removed the contaminated area from the cake + about 20% extra. I then colonized a second tub with this batch in isolation and in the end it turned out pretty well. Actually out performed the original tub! I also had an issue along the way of a delay in fruiting. I solved it by taking everything back to incubation conditions for about a week before trying fruiting again. I think this may have been a mistake over all and I should have just been more patient. My end results, while nowhere near as impressive as some of the yields I've seen on this sub, were still FAR more than I ever expected at just a littel over 5oz! I gave nearly half of my grow away to friends and family (gotta share the love) and spent half of the rest experimenting with various storage methods. I've got just under 1oz left from the original grow. I've had some great experiences over the past several months and learned a lot and I couldn't have done any of it without help from all you wonderful people. Thank you all! I'm about to start my second grow using a WBS tek and the same mono tubs I used for this last grow. I'll also be experimenting in starting a liquid culture for future use. So I'll be back around asking more questions again. So I'm sure I'll be seeing all of you around some more in the near future! Now, onto the grow! Day 1 - Inoculation in my glove box. Day 1 - The bags begin to incubate. I set up a space heater in a closet with a tray of water to keep up ambient humidity. Not sure if this had an effect but I doubt it hurt anything. Day 5 - First signs of growth! Day 15 - Slow growth as you can see. I neglected to crush, shake, and redistribute the newly growing myc resulting in a very long colonization time. Day 26 - This was the day I mixed everything up based on advice received here. I probably could have cut two weeks off my incubation time if I had done this sooner. Day 30 - Four days later and BAM! Colonization at nearly 100% Day 36 - I took the two fully colonized bags and spawned them to bulk using Mush Zombies great tek. Day 36 - Mono Tub A labeled and ready! Day 36 - I kept the other two bags isolated during Tub As initial growth but i got a picture of them together here. Day 39 - Tammy's a bitch! I found a small amount of contamination in the other two bags. This was probably the cause for their slower growth. Day 39 - You can get a better look at the tam here. Especially in the bottom right. I removed nearly 30% of the material from both bags. The contaminated portion and anything within 6" of it was removed and destroyed. I then used what was left to spawn to a second monotub. Day 39 - Monotub B is set to spawn isolated from Tub A. Day 48 - Tub A is fully colonized! Tub B (not shown in this picture) is also fully colonized at this time and shows no sign of further contamination. Day 48 - Tub A (left) and Tub B (right). In this picture a casing layer has already been applied to B. Day 56 - Both tubs have been cased for several days at this point with no real growth noted. I decided to let them go for a few more days before I did anything about it. Day 60 - At this point it's been a week without any real change so I decided to reapply a foil layer and increase the temp by about 2 deg F for a few days. In the end I think this was probably a mistake and I should have just been more patient. Day 63 - I noticed some serious growth around the sides of the foil and when removed saw a forest of pins and some half grown adult mushies! I removed the foil and lowered the temp a few degrees and began a 12 hour light / dark cycle. Day 65 - DICKS! DICKS EVERYWHRE! Day 67 - At this point I figured I was'nt going to get a "canopy" type growth and was just going to harvest in increments. I took all the adults In this photo. Day 67 - Some dongs in a bowel Day 69 - Second harvest. I would get a third harvest as well but did'nt photograph that. I tried for a second flush but had no success. Day 69 - MOAR dicks! Nice pick of one of my drying sessions. I used my dehydrator at 90F. I took the little ones off first at around 8 hours. The big ones taking the longest to get cracker dry at around 18 hours. Pic of my full yield after drying. Banana for scale. Little over 4oz in the bag and 1 oz on the plate baked into 1g candies. I used bakers chocolate, coconut oil, and Stevie powder. Worked great! So that's that. I couldn't have done any of it without all your help! THANK YOU ALL AGAIN FROM THE BOTTOM OF MY MUSHIE <3
  18. hey guys I've been growing these PES Amazonians for 2 weeks now, it fully colonised roughly a week ago, I've misted and fanned it as necessary, I took a few pics of my cake and just wanted an expert (or near enough haha) to give a bit of advice on it, I really thought I'd see pins by now but no pins, im just worried that something went wrong, the mycelium was very fluffy, it still kinda is but it looks shiny on the top now and it's kinda slightly tinted yellow as well (not all of it like spots of it) and the blue you can see yourself but there's no bad smell off it or anything I was reading about casing it as well I'm a bit confused about it but would it be worth a try? Dunk and roll? I have verm and coir at my disposal and that's all, if someone is able to help me I'd greatly appreciate it even anything you notice yourself oh and the last pic I uploaded I could see little white dots are these hyphal knots? Because I already thought I had them before? Thank you in advance
  19. Cue


    Since I am a new member I just wanted to post a couple of pics to show that I may know a thing or two. Here are my mini green houses. Here is an example how clean I keep it. Here are two of the trays as examples. And a closeup of the mycelium. Here are some jars of Cubensis China for the next run of trays, when the PE6 gets retired to the backyard. Substrate is composted wheat straw/coir/ Black Kow Composted cow manure. Jars are WBS using a steep tek.
  20. Canipheng

    First ever grow MZ monotub

    Alrighty, guess I start a grow journal on my first grow ever. I've gotten 6 quarts of WBS to colonize almost ready to go. Here is the slowest jar Here's roughly 10 quarts of my substrate which consists of CCM, coco and course verm with added lime and 2 cups of gypsum. Here's the CCM and the blended substrate in a turkey bag which is oven safe (whatever that means) I also have a bale of straw laying around which I will use in future grows and possibly throw in a handful if it's okay. Note, none of my subs nor the casing has been pasteurized or sterilized. Here's the straw I normally use to mulch my gardeni And finally here is the 66 quart tub all drilled out Thanks for all the help you guys have given me along the way.
  21. So it's about that time again. Bout a year haitus and I'm now back and as full of questions as ever. How does this substrate sound? I tried to use what I had with the calcium carbonate bc I couldn't find it at a few grow shops (I'll have to get online in a week or so). 5 qt coarse vermiculite (water retention and structure, I assume) 3 1/4 qt cow manure compost (said dairy manure compost some bagged bs brand from walmart), nutes 3/4 qt worm castings, nutes 339 g coco coir (close enough to the 325g that mtdorashane used in the tek i am roughly emulating), water absorption and structure 1/4 cup gypsum (calcium sulfate, extra nutes) 1/4 cup coffee grounds (nutes) 1/4 cup spagnum peat moss (I'll be using this for the casing, so i figure if I introduce it to the mush now, they'll know how to digest it better when it's spread for the casing) 1 tsp pickling lime (calcium hydroxide for a quick ph raise to give mush a better start (they prefer acidic, but their competitors will like it more, their adaptability allows them to also thrive at 8.5 or so) 2 tsp crushed oyster shells (I could not find calcium carbonate. Limestone, or oyster shell flour, or gardening lime that had less than 5% magnesium) ((I attempted to crush the oyster shells a bit more with a porcelain bowl and hammer, it kind of worked to lower the size...)) 1 pack of active yeast, approx 8 mg (Just dicking around, pretty much. I assume mycelium like it bc it's used in agar, so why not bulk. Hopefully someone doesnt respond and say you're a dumbass who didn't research the affects of yeast enough.) 1 tsp extra light malt extract syrup (This is also not called for fromany tek, but I figured why not. Hopefully no one has an actual point about not using malt syrup in bulk substrates.) 12 qt boiling tap water added Dry ingredients mixed. Wet mixed. Both mixed together. Bagged in oven bags (w/ micropore tape covered holes). They will be pc'd tomorrow since I have to visit my 'rents tonight. So I also made agar, that is currently pc'ing. Recipe as follows. 26g agar agar powder 11g yeast (might have really overdone that) 9g extra light malt extract syrup (it's what I have and want to get rid of/use) ((I think I should have used 12g syrup?)) 1/4 tsp organic brown rice flour 900 ml distilled water Will pc for 30 min. Plan is to use z-tubs. Everybody loves pics. Strain is APE. Can i use this flavor injector to suck up my LC and inoculate the agar? At least once. I can then presssure cook it to sterilize and reuse, right?
  22. IGuy

    My Beginning

    I would Love if people could learn from my experience and so I will try to be thorough. Also as you will find, I like numbers (especially time, and price) If anyone can correct me for wrong doing I would appreciate it as I would like to become part of the community. I WILL MARK ANY MAJOR MISTAKE I MADE THROUGHOUT THE PROCESS WITH A STAR ** STARTING- It took me around 3 days to do the research that I needed to get started and decided to make the leap and order my spores online. I am guessing that the vendor is a sponsor being that MUSH ZOMBIE referenced them in his tutorial, if not I apologize but they are great. I ended up with a 4 for $40 deal from http://www.lilshopofspores.com. They even threw in an additional syringe for free. The pack included Texas, Brazil, Mazatapec, Malabar, and Fiji for free but the deal always changes. I would suggest getting a deal where ever you order yours from because as a beginner you get to try more than one type for cheaper. Price is big for me because you cant just go breaking the bank for fun. They equipment you need cost me around $80 to get me started not including the spores but that's because I went all out. If you go with REZ-EFFECT and follow in my footsteps you will need the Following equipment to get you started.- -(1) 12 pack of 1qt canning Jars -$10 tops **-(1) tube RTV High temp silicone. (Gasket Maker) can be found in the automotive section at wallmart - no more than $10 probably more like $7** I got red.. dont. get clear.** -(1-2) big bags Wild Bird Seed (WBS) preferably with as little sunflower seeds as possible. -$7 -(1) small jug Karo Corn syrup for liquid culture because why not start some. -$5 -(1) bug O bag of vermiculite. -$10-15. -(1-4) tivek envelopes or just a roll o tivek. PREPARATION- I am not going to go into too much detail because you can follow the specifics from the link above. What really got be was the pressure cooking guys. I had some hard time figuring out. I bought one on ebay for $30 with no pressure gauge but luckily I found someone who owned one with the gauge. I would suggest going the extra dollar for a gauged lid cooker though I found that you dont need the gauge once you know what to expect but learning was difficult without one. My cooker holds 7 Jars which works just fine if you are planning to PC (Pressure cook) 12 wbs jars and a LC (Liquid Culture) or 2 So it takes me 2 runs to get all of them in. So far I have gone through this whole process a few times in the last month or so. But I have learned that simply putting your largest burner at just less than medium heat and walking away for 90 minutes is the way to go. should sit around 15 PSI after about 10 min build up. **Also I made the mistake of not using enough water the first time and opened the bad boy up to find that the wbs had cooked a bit and my tivek filters melted.** Fill the PC up until the jars almost start to float but still stay still. **Also make sure to put the wobble thing or throttle on the PC** if you don't it spouts steam and never builds pressure. It took my jars around 8 hours to cool on their own but about 4 or 5 with a fan. KNOCKING- ** I forgot to shake one of my syringes. DONT** The spore clump was wasted on one jar and all that was left was barely enough to inoculate a liquid culture. BTW I put 2 hols in my LC. one for the self healing port and the second for gas exchange, other than that it was just one qt distilled water and one tablespoon karo. check that.. though if you ever do forget to shake it, dont throw it away or waste the rest on a spawn jar, trust me they take forever to grow, just knock up a LC and use that to inoculate a bunch of jars. When it comes to the healing port though, I find that clear works best but I also had some fall off. no good. I used a tooth pick to spread out any seals that looked too perfect so that they stick to the filter a little better. I used 1cc from my syringes per jar and made sure to save the last cc for a LC. TIME- My first day I inoculated 15 spawn jars (3 of which came from the unshaken syringe) which was just over half a bag of WBS and put them in a box with an electronic temp gauge poked through the side and a tiny space heater on the lowest setting pointed at the box (moving it farther or closer to get the right temp. I managed to keep it at a perfect 80 degrees. A few days later I knocked up another 12 jars and 2 LCs. By the time I put in the additional 12, I was seeing signs of growth from the first ones, hardly any growth from the 3 mess ups but plenty from the 12 good inoculations. Knowing that you are supposed to shake them after around 10 days** I shook one that was doing very well after about 8 days just see if it would help or hurt.** HURT** wait at least 10 days or until you see solid growth on all 4 sides of the jar, maybe even a little more for ones that are taking their time. 10 days go by, I shake my 1st batch and wait 3 days to shake the 2nd batch. It has been a week since I mixed my first and 3 since my second and oddly enough they are all around the same level of growth. Goes to show that different spores show different results. CONTINUING- I didn't want to wait, I started another batch with the last of the second bag and one of my jars broke broke in the pressure cooker. BUT I also started 3 new LCs with what was left of all my syringes. The only difference is that instead of using spore syringes, I used my liquid culture to inoculate. It was difficult for me to find anything about LC so here is what I have got so far 1 to 2 CCs from a spore syringe to inoculate a jar of liquid culture. can be incubated at the same temp as spawn jars so anywhere from 75 to 81 degrees. It only takes around 3 days to see substantial growth of live mycelium forming a cloud inside the jar. I would suggest figuring out a magnetic stir stick to break up cloud periodically as shaking too vigorously can damage the mycelium. You can reuse your syringes for your LCs and here is how. 3 cups. one with bleach, 2 with water. start by pulling up and filling the syringe with water from water cup 1, then dump. Pull up and fill with bleach or isopropyl alcohol, dump. Lastly clean out by pulling up water from water cup 2 and dumping. Now swirl LC to break up cloud and turn jar on side or upside down with needle inside (Flame that sucker first) and pull up a good amount of mycelium and water. Now knock your jars with around 2cc s for shorter incubation times. MOVING UP- I got tired of the box. I also have too many jars to fit and no place to safely fruit. I built a shelf -the main reason I want to show off- and got myself a temperature controller so to get the exact temp for incubation. Here is the shelf For some reason many of my images failed to upload. I may try later. I just hope people see this. BTW the holes in the shelf are to allow airflow to keep the whole box the same temp. I used 2x4s for legs, 1x2s for supports, plywood for shelves and cardboard for sides and doors, seemed better than hinges and all. It was also easier to keep everything tight. Thhe top are older and going very well. Soon going to put in fruiting conditions.
  23. WitchDoctor


    Colombian (photos) and B+ cubensis bulked to coco coir/verm/gypsum. After birthing, BRF cakes (brown rice flour cakes - see PF Tek) were left for 2 days in clean water with some gympsum added and then layered with coco coir in small circular plastic pots that can be easily added or taken out of the fruiting chamber as required. My new fruiting chamber is an aquarium with a 6500k grow light. I lined the bottom with prepared perlite and placed a bucket of bottle water in the chamber with fish tank ceramic buublers to increase the humidity and provide FAE (Frequent Air Exchange) There is an air pump pushing air through the ceramic bubblers which can be bought at any decently stocked pet shop. I currently have 8 pots in the tank with another 10 on the way. Second ever grow and its already much improved over the first thanks to SHROOMOLOGY. I will write a detailed tek in full for the third if anyone is interested.
  24. WitchDoctor


    Colombian (photos) and B+ cubensis bulked to coco coir/verm/gypsum. After birthing, BRF cakes (brown rice flour cakes - see PF Tek) were left for 2 days in clean water with some gympsum added and then layered with coco coir in small circular plastic pots that can be easily added or taken out of the fruiting chamber as required. My new fruiting chamber is an aquarium with a 6500k grow light. I lined the bottom with prepared perlite and placed a bucket of bottle water in the chamber with fish tank ceramic buublers to increase the humidity and provide FAE (Frequent Air Exchange) There is an air pump pushing air through the ceramic bubblers which can be bought at any decently stocked pet shop. I currently have 8 pots in the tank with another 10 on the way. Second ever grow and its already much improved over the first thanks to SHROOMOLOGY. I will write a detailed tek in full for the third if anyone is interested.
  25. WitchDoctor


    Colombian (photos) and B+ cubensis bulked to coco coir/verm/gypsum. After birthing, BRF cakes (brown rice flour cakes - see PF Tek) were left for 2 days in clean water with some gympsum added and then layered with coco coir in small circular plastic pots that can be easily added or taken out of the fruiting chamber as required. My new fruiting chamber is an aquarium with a 6500k grow light. I lined the bottom with prepared perlite and placed a bucket of bottle water in the chamber with fish tank ceramic buublers to increase the humidity and provide FAE (Frequent Air Exchange) There is an air pump pushing air through the ceramic bubblers which can be bought at any decently stocked pet shop. I currently have 8 pots in the tank with another 10 on the way. Second ever grow and its already much improved over the first thanks to SHROOMOLOGY. I will write a detailed tek in full for the third if anyone is interested.
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