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  1. I’m afraid that I might have added my light source too early. I am doing a mono tub and I made my first homemade substrate this time. Pasteurized and all. I was pretty proud when the manure got to that 150 F mark and stayed there for a few hours. Well I mixed my spawn bags and added a thin layer of Verm to case. This is the first time using this layer and I’m kicking myself in the ass for it. There were some spots that were poking through so I thought what the hell throw some light on it. It seems to be stalled. Been the same few spot for over a week and a half now. Is it a no go on this tub or can I turn the light back off to see if it will finish colonizing? Should I dunk and flip the cake? Please, tell me something good.......
  2. Hello folks, Is my first time growing mushrooms (or, as I call them: Champis), and after about one month and a half I finally decided to take the casing out of the dark room. So I did the induction process, it tooked about five days and finally first pins are popping out, at least 50 of them. My question is: how much will they take to fully grow? I would apreciate if someone could give me some light on the matter.
  3. Hello! I'm a noob here with just a couple posts, and this is my first grow. Seems like this took years LOL! To recap, my first issue was grain spawn progress getting stuck, which turned out to be because I had omitted Tyvek on my jars. Once it was pointed out to me that the myc was suffocating, I took a chance and poked through the silicone seal and hoped for the best. Out of seven jars I did this to, two became obviously contaminated. I dug a hole in the backyard, threw an old log into it and poured the tammed jars in and buried, hoping for a surprise later. Bottom line, don't skip the Tyvek! Next, I took my five remaining jars and put each in a 6qt tub with coir, mixed it all up, made sure the surface was even but not packed, covered each with foil and put back in the incubator to spawn. Problem was, since my grain got stuck earlier, I was now running into the holidays with a planned trip. So after 14 days in the incubator (and right before my holiday trip), on the advice of @Mushinist (THANK YOU!) I opened them up for casing, intending to case and put back into the incubator for 4 more days until I returned. Opening each up I only had one of them tammed, it was also planted in the backyard with a log and a prayer. The remaining four looked healthy. I didn't say they looked good. I think that my sub was a little too moist, and it was unevenly moist -- I had PC'ed it in a bag, and a lot of the moisture had pooled in the lower part of the bag, so getting the field capacity right was difficult. I wasn't off enough to kill it, but the surface of two tubs were very moist and it seemed like the more moisture there was the more uneven it got. Anyway, I cased the four tubs with the 50/50+ recipe using peat and verm and put them in the incubator until I returned from my holiday trip. A note on the casing: it was difficult for me to measure the peat as a volume measurement as per the recipe. I mean, the stuff is not dense. Are you supposed to mash it down? If so how much? What about all the stems and sticks? It seemed like after PCing the verm turned to mud with metallic flecks and the peat just disappeared, so my casing was more verm than anything. It still worked though, with some difficulties I will point out in a minute. Cracking open the incubator, things still looked good (i.e., no tam!) but some of the myc had just partied on the casing layer so everything was even more uneven. I dropped the temp to 68-ish and began fanning and misting. Soon I had pins (pencil is only for size reference, not pointing at anything). Then I had some mushies coming up. This was really just amazing to watch as a first-timer. Before I knew it, it was time to harvest. In each tub, some fruit was ready earlier than others, a lot earlier. I ended up picking those that had dropped the veil and were starting to drop spores, and fanned and misted the others to harvest no more than 12-14 hours later. This seemed to work pretty well as it gave the smaller fruits more time to grow and bulk up, which they did. Now here is where I had some trouble with the casing. I don't know if this is just part of the harvest for everyone, but the areas of myc that had broken through the casing tended to grow multiple stems on the same base, and these were difficult to get out -- the shrooms that had grown individually were relatively easy to twist and rock out, but the multiples always brought a good chuck of myc with them. Moreover, since the casing layer was heavy on the verm, the bases had these little paper-thin metallic verm flecks that were super hard to clean off. So much so that I really want to avoid verm as a casing material if possible! I got a toothbrush and cleaned them up as much as possible, but it was not a good time and I ended up just cutting a lot of it off. This photo shows what I'm talking about. Very messy. I don't have a digital scale (yet), but a kitchen scale showed yields (fresh) of about 14oz per tub, which at this point seems like a lifetime supply of medicine! (And in the meantime, trying to refine my technique I started another 7 jars. They are looking amazing, ready to move to tubs in a few days, but my timing once again is off because I have more flushes on this first grow to go...). I think I need to try some edibles or something so I can keep growing. Anyway, here is one final picture for you, cracker dry: Any pointers are appreciated. Thanks so mush for all your help!
  4. Would like some thoughts on an alternative to the crushed oyster shells. I had an idea of boiling and cleaning some eggshells, drying and crushing, and using as replacement. Would this work?
  5. Hello I am very new to this page as well as the growing process. I obtained 2 quart jars not quite full with birdseed mycelium almost ready for the next step. first question/fear: I was given these cold, from the refrigerator, is the mycelium still alive? second longer question: researching casting ingredients I've found people using; Coir, coffee grounds, sawdust, course vermiculite, sphagnum peat moss, hydrated lime, crushed oyster shells, seed starter. what are the advantages and disadvantages to using different materials if this mix is supposed to be lacking nutrients wouldn't seed starter and peat moss have nutrient? I was given the tip to take a couple tbsp at a time of my birdseed mycelium, put it in a blender (possibly with the casting), and then put it in the dish I want to grow in. ??? this doesn't make a lot of sense to me but i don't really want to ask this person to explain again. does anyone know what they may have been referring too. If this is not how its done then do you just layer the mycelium in-between two layers of casting? Thanks in advance. Im excited
  6. So I have a mix of 4 cakes and 1 brick coir. I mist and fan daily, have a little cycle of 12/12. Am following all the teks. Wtf is going on? Why is there this green layer(not dark green)? Why are the pins so smol, and why aren't there more of them? FIRST GROW closeup Pictures from like 4-5 days ago
  7. So I have four x 1/2 pint BRF jars of Hawaiian strain growing nicely and I'd like to "bulk case" them to get a greater "flush"... My question is: after birthing and dunking...is it better to "crumble" the substrate cakes into the casing or leave the cakes whole (or cut them in half to get a better spread) and just cover them? I'm reading that crumbling the cakes causes great trauma to the Mycilium....
  8. Since chat is down I've been reading archives again. And I've seen some Ppl suggesting replacing the case after the dunk for cubes in a few of the older threads. Is this still suggested? This brings up another question for me. Since Ajax seems to devour everything it touches would adding another case layer after pins pop screw it up? My concern is because now that the surface is all myc I now have to mist my lil Ajax monos and the whole reason for going mono was to avoid crap like this.
  9. OK I think I know the answer to this but here it goes anyhow. I've got 2 6qt dub tubs and a few minis for "trials" of tampensis. Now the same rules seem to apply here as to cubes, if I can't maintain a good study high r.h of around 90% then I'd better case them right? Now currently since iv never done them yet and they seem to be growing great, I'm super Into them and will be "mother henning" this grow. I'll be monitoring these tubs like crazy gonna try a dub tub style grow first since my high end f.c is not finished yet. I've looked all over and found them cased and uncased so I just wanna hear it from the "hive mind" as @Brody affectionately called us. I found it funny because I also see all of us as a type of collective. It's cool that as soon as one of us finds a lil tip or discovers something good or bad we all know within seconds and go to work on It. Sorry having a manic moment back to Casing. Like I said it looks like Casing is the way to go even tho I'm gonna be posted up babysitting them the whole time just cause I prob need the wiggle room. In addition I'd like to ask about this. I see Ppl putting cmc in the case mix for mexicana mush. Do I have to? I'm unexperienced and it sounds like a open invitation for Tammy. Wouldn't that make them eat the case anyhow? All my tubs have been Clean for a while now so maybe I'm being paranoid. What say you?
  10. I had oyster grain spawn that was going to start to fruit in the jar because I left it sitting too long - so I was too lazy to prep for growing it in bags and I just spawned it in my ztubs. I put it on pasturized hardwood fuel pellets mixed with gypsum and brown rice flower. I did the black liner and everything just the same as we do for cubes. my question is.... do I case these oysters? if so, do I case with regular cube casing? also, I plan to add many more polly holes to the top tub to get more fae. does that sound like a good plan?
  11. OpenBar

    Ajax Log

    Got this strain from a good fellow in the community, Now that I have the Flow hood, I was thinking good time to try out a new strain So far i just Made two Jars of Oats and Noc'ed them up yesterday. I think I will be going with Ztubs. But we will see as we go.
  12. I know the deal... If you cant buy coarse verm then order it from amazon and get a giant bag of vetm delivered to your roommates. I have been scouring the forums and cant tell the bullshit from the good shit. Is there a real option for casing with no verm? Can you use cardboard cut in any configuration to replace it? Could there be that there is no alternative to coarse verm? Really? So i saw something about open cell foam. Sounded cool but no one uses it so it must not be great. It seems like it would hold moisture and be airy nuf to make a microclimate. Idk. I will not see coarse verm in the near future. Help please.
  13. I'd like a show of hands and opinions on wax paper as a caseing layer is this the current trend or has it evolved? Do you guys case with sterile substrate? Or coir? Or is it a moot point cause cubes don't "neeeed" cased? I don't got any coir Lowe's sells coir mats for in flower baskets but it looks different than what iv seen in bags. Would it work if cut to fit?
  14. Part 2 thanks GT Day 13 of colonization (6 days wax paper) added a light layer of Shroom Supply casing. Temp. between 77-83 Why is it taking so long to start pinning, Is it the temp or is there something else I should be doing?
  15. RiK

    Wild Texas cube tray

    OK folks, here's the Skivvy you dig.. I started out with some clean Wild Texas: Cube spores made a light karo lc and a pda plate and two bags of milo spawn lc was a bust, agar too, then one of the milo bags soured.. (too much moisture) the other bag tammed on the bottom so I made casing with a good bit of pickking lime in it cleaned the milo the best I could and tossed it into a sterile plastic tray with foil wrapped in it put a good bit of casing on it 1/2 inch leveled poured h2o2 inbit and covered with foil to the casing level and let sit for 24 hours, drained and put in a slide bag in the dark for six days or so opened on occassion for fae, lil more h2o2 and set for four more days. put into the FC and hoping my FC at fucking 89°F b/c my ac capacitor went out!! Guess they look okay.. but damn! need my hvac guy to get that part! Is this classified as a rezz tray?
  16. Is this 64 quart tub ready for a casing? Today ended the 10 day no peek under the foil. I just revelaed this bad boy. very excited to see this. So, is this ready for casing or am I looking for 100% white top? This is pasturized hpoo - 8 quarts and 8 quarts fully colonized wbs. The mycilium is Thai super strain. I used El Parana easy pasturizing tek and found it to be easy and clean. (how do you tag people here) @El_Piraña cool- it worked. On a side note - HAHAHA! Holey shit, This is awesome. PS - was worried that i would find a tam mess under that foil so yesterday I started 3 zombie tubs. They are in my IC and already show growth. These are cooler than I thought they would be.
  17. So I cased these tubs a week and a half ago. I have been mist and fanning them 2-3 times a day both top tub and the actual tubs. When should I expect to start seeing pins? I also have a grow light that I keep on during the day and turn off at night, but I just started the light 2 days ago.
  18. I am close to casing my sub. I was going to do a 50/50 of Jiff Seed Starter Mix and Verm and put 1/4in over the sub. How would I go about preparing the casing.... mainly how much water should I use when prepping it? Then load into a over bag and throw it in the PC for hour and a half.
  19. So I made my first casing with, peat, verm, crushed Oyster shells and pickling lime. I followed the tek to a T. The casing looks great, nice and fluffy but I smell everything before use and.. it smells like shit! Smell kinda like ammonia and fish sticks. Dafuq did I do wrong now? or is this ok? The only thing I can think of is the peat moss, I could only find miracle gro brand that has fertilizer in it. I think I will soak and drain the peat first to try and leech some out. Which brings me to another question. Is it ok to PC that crap (fertilizer)? I would hate to blow up my kitchen or someshit. Lol
  20. Hey guys I got a question about the 50/50+ CASING can i add a couple of TBSP of gypsum to the mix?? or would that mess with the ph?? I got a ph test on order but not here yet. Is there anything else that I can add to the recipe to help out??
  21. Do I have to let the casing sit overnight? if i dont will it hurt it? I think it should sit overnight but im not sure thanks
  22. Hey @thekaratekid and @mushmouth. I'm pretty sure I've seen posts from both of you talking about your spray bottle and how it atomizes water to a very diffuse spray. Mind taking pictures of the bottles, or seeing if there's a upc code for them, model number or similar? Second question, how do the 50-50+ casing, and just vermiculite compare? I'm talking about yield, colonization time, even pinsets, etc 3. Are there any ologists out here that think patching a casing is a good practice? Are you supposed to do it regardless of casing type? Or just straight verm? Or old practice that isn't beneficial? 4. Gypsum is calcium sulfate. Crushed Oyster Shells are calcium carbonate. Does gypsum supply better nutrition than COS? Are they interchangeable in a recipe for a casing? How does the pH differ, and does anyone know a good ratio to use it in a casing? 5. I've seen many recommendations to pasteurize your casing rather than sterilize (also your substrate, I believe). Assuming you know and can properly pasteurize, is that a better tech than sterilization? If any bacteria are left alive, don't they fight mycelium for nutrients? Is it more resistant to contamination? Thanks all, learning tons every day.
  23. Hello everyone, So I have a rye jar thats almost ready. Its a small jar so I am using a mini tupperware container to case it. This is my plan, please correct me since this is my first time using rye 1. Im going to even out the jar into the tupper ware and put a 50 coir 50 verm casing layer which will be somewhat damp. 2. Then im going to close the lid and put it in the dark on a heat pad until mycellium starts to show up on the casing layer 3. Then im going to open the lid, put the tupper ware in a bin with holes drilled on each side with moist perlite on the bottom to keep it humid and i will stop using the heat pad. (i dont want to mist and fan so im gonna shotgun it.) 4. Then i put the bin into a place where it recieves indirect sunlight so it initiates pinning. 5. Then i wait for it to fruit. This may sound over generalized but im just going to wing it and hope for the best. Does it sound like it would work? If not please correct/fill in any missing steps.
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