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Found 134 results

  1. Alacabenzi Log

    Hello Everyone, It has been a while since Iv had a log. I got a syringe years ago from who knows where. but it says alacabenzi on it. I did Noc two jars of grain. I will get into how i prep grains and such later in this log. One contam and other was so/so. nothing i wanted to risky to grow out. So I took Grain to agar. After three Transfers, Now the agar looks ready for use. I did make a slurry mix and put to LC. hope to test that in about a week. Here are some pics. Agar mix: malt, agar + little bit of yeast (food coloring to make black (red+blue) The White hand shows where i took my sample to put to another agar dish. The black hand shows a fight that i want to stay away from Noc a small jar to keep in my fridge for long term storage and other uses (sorry pic sucks) LC mix is also the Malt+karo mix That will do it for now. As soon as i see good growth i will be putting to Red milo grain.
  2. Got my first set of jars incubating, just inoculated them and set them up! Used millet and milo mix in a NSNS method. Have a few questions for everyone! Love all the info on here, wouldn't have even got started without you guys! Has anyone ever used nyjer or thistle seed as a base? Why pressure cook everything? Wouldn't a nice long bath in standard boiling water be just as effective at sterilization - only a 20-35 degree difference?
  3. Hey guys...second flush of these cakes. Yes there is noticeable bruising on the cakes I am aware. I noticed some of the pins have already opened their caps while immature. Also noticed one cake has larger fruits but they have brown streaks on them. I am thinking that these cakes are suffering from verticillium or some other cotam. Any ideas or help would be appreciated. Also to note: the first flush was good for both of these cakes with healthy fruits. Thanks.
  4. Improving my cubensis technique

    I'm getting a little restless since my last cubensis grows finished. This time around I want to try some things a little different, hopefully making some improvements. One thing I noticed earlier was that my pinsets were great until I decreased the fruiting temperature. I think I must've been getting more evaporation when the room was warmer, so this time I will try to mist & fan to improve the pinset while keeping fruiting temps low. I'm gonna change my sub/spawn ratio and try to focus more on sub ph. Previously my sub/spawn ratios were usually 1.5:1 to 2:1. This time I want to try to stay around 3:1. I bought another ph meter, last one I bought didn't work so hopefully I have better results with this one. I'm a little surprised I've had such good success w/out ever measuring ph. I have only used LC once before to inoculate some bags. I have some jars of LC sitting around so I am finally using it. First up is some Burma LC that I made in January. I used it to inoculate some grain jars that I made up....maybe 3 months ago? I can't even remember exactly. Inoculated 7 jars on 7/30/17: Then sometime in end of March I had cloned a pin of Ecuador in agar, transferred some clean growth to new agar jars. Then used that to make some LC on 4/10/17. On 7/30/17 inoculated 7 fresh jars of wbs. I had a hard time getting the LC through the 18 gauge needle so I think I went a little light on inoculating these jars, but they're doing ok: I mentioned in another thread that I started some Brazil cubensis spores on agar 4 days ago. I pressure cooked 7 more jars of WBS today. I may either use up some more LC or just G2G like I usually do.
  5. Hey, all. So, I am doing WBS in quart size jars. When I first made them I put verm on the bottom and didn't do any particular field test for moisture, just kind of eye-balled it and compared it to videos I have seen. The moisture seemed good. For the first half of the incubation period I was holding a relatively constant temperature of 78F. The last half I fluctuated quite a bit. For a couple days I had temps into the low 90s then others days I had temps as low as 69F. Out of 22 jars only 7 were fully colonized by the month mark. The rest ranging from about 60-90% colonized. I left them in for another week to give them some more time but growth seems to have halted. I attribute it to the high temps and not as accurate moisture content of the WBS, but I see a lot of people not being super specific as well as a lot that are insanely specific on what to do when preparing their grain. Now my question; I went ahead and spawned 4 of those 7 fully colonized jars to bulk, they still had some visible moisture in the jar but they just looked a little dry. Is there a temperature and moisture content that the jars could get to that would kill the myc. or are they pretty resilient. Since I added them into my hydrated coco coir substrate will they just use that moisture and start growing again? How does that process take place? I understand the importance of changing temps when going to fruiting but I want to know if I fucked myself by having these varied temps during incubation. Thanks.
  6. Hey guys I'm growing PES Amazonian shrooms, they're going great for my first time I just wanna know when do you guys think I should start harvesting them? They've been growing 5-6 days and some of their veils are breaking (little less than half ) the thing that I was thinking about though is that they look smaller than the pics I've seen of them matured? It's just confusing me because the veils are breaking. A bit of help would be appreciated, thanks
  7. Cobweb or myeclium?

    I have searched for what cobweb looks like and I am still unsure. This is my first time working with spawn.
  8. This is a tek I used for years before I built a greenhouse. It is just as automated as my GH is and it gets great results. You only use bags for this tek, no jars, no tubs, no FC. Colonized grain bags get spawned to substrate bags, colonized then just set out to fruit. Ok, let's get started. You will need large spawn bags with a 0.5 micron filter patch. You can use the 0.2 micron bags for your grain but they won't do well for fruiting. Use your favorite grain and grain prep method. Here I am using oats. To prep them I put my dry grain in a bucket and poured boiling water in. I put the sealing lid on and let them sit for a few hours to hydrate. Once your grain is hydrated, drain well and load up your bags. I usually like to make each bag to be the same amout of grain as 4 jars, assuming the jars are 60-70% full. You can put more or less grain in each bag, that just works for me and they fit well in my PC. NOTE: If you like to put dry verm in the bottom of your jars with your WBS, don't panic!! This tek will still work with bags. If you are putting about 3-4 jars worth of grain in each bag, 1 cup of dry verm at the bottom of the bag works perfectly. The 1st couple of scoops of grain you put in the bag, just be careful to keep the verm on the bottom, just like loading your jars. Here are some oats that are ready to be loaded into bags. The pic below is a bag with only about 3 qt jars of grain in it, it will make 3 spawn bags when it is fully colonized. Once the grain is loaded, you have to get the air out. Here is how I seal up the bags- I make the tops like they would be w/o sub, so they fold down evenly. I work my way down to the sub level, and roll the bag until it reaches the filter patch: See how all the air is out of the bag but it is easy to fold the top down to the filter? Once it looks like this, fold the top down to the top of the filter and secure each end with binder clips, then secure each end with new rubber bands as tight as they can go. SIDE NOTE: I like to put a dab of silicone on the filter patch the night before I PC the grain, when you start prepping your grain, so it will be dry for the PC. This is a SHIP which will allow you to inoculate your grain with LC or spore solution in open air. Just make sure your SHIPs are on the part of the filter that is sealed to the bag, not the excess filter on the top and bottom as seen above. A couple of those pics were from a different grow, but making the bags is the same whether it's grain or substrate. Now it's time to load them into the PC. You want to separate the bags from the sides of the PC and from each other so they can heat more evenly. I put jar rings between the bags and on the ends so the bags aren't pushing against the side of the PC. They can melt or warp. You can use balls of tin foil as well. EDIT: The pics of the balls of foil or jar rings on the bottom of the PC and the pic of the 1st 2 bags loaded in won't load, but you get the picture. Now put the other 2 bags perpendicular to the bottom ones. When the bags are loaded put a plate upside down on the top 2 bags in case the rubber bands break and clog the steam vent. PC your grain for 90-120 mins and let cool completely before inoculating. I like to blow some air at the bags for a few mins to get some air back in there. You can put them in front of your flowhood or a fan, this is not necessary though. Prepare a syringe with LC or use a spore syringe, then flame your needle, spray your SHIP with alc or Lysol to serilize it, and inject it into your SHIP, making sure not to stick it through the back of the bag. I usually use 3-4cc of LC per bag, spore solution about half that. Try to aim at the sides of the bag and let your LC or spore solution run down the sides into the grain. This way you can see the colonization and you will know when to "shake" your bags to speed up colonization. One trick I've learned is to hold the SHIP when pulling out the needle so you don't pull the silicone off of the filter patch. I like to pull the filter away from the back of the bag and hold it sideways when I noc the bags so I don't poke a hole through the back of the bag. If you do try to tape it up as soon as you can and hope for the best. Once your bags look 20-50% colonized, give them a good shake. I start by kneading the bag with your hand until all the colonized chunks are broken up, then shake the bag until it is evenly mixed. Once fully colonized it is time to spawn to your substrate in new 0.5 micron bags. Prep your substrate of choice like you would any other tek. You can PC bags of substrate then add colonized grain, or you can pasteurize your sub, then add it to a new bag with your colonized grain. My recipe of choice is equal parts cmc/coir/verm/ with some gypsom (optional) and hydrated lime (like Mrs. Wages Pickling lime). Calcium carbonate works as well. I throw everything in a bucket, mix it up, and pour boiling water in so it is soupy. Then I put a sealing lid on and leave it overnight to cool (bucket tek). Once cooled I squeeze it out a handful at a time to field capacity and put it in to my new bags. I love pasteurizing this way, it works with any type of substrate mix and my tam rate is zero. If you like to PC your substrate, that's fine too You can do this in open air as well, just make sure your work area is clean, work quickly and don't have any air circulation in the room (like a fan or AC vent blowing on your work area). When spawning your bags, don't go over 4" thick. This will give you 3-4 flushes, but I like to make them about 2" thick. You will get 2 good flushes and then the sub is spent. Also, don't use more than 50% grain. I do about 50/50 for my bags, usually 25-50% grain is good. Once you have made all of your bags, fold the tops down to the filter and secure the ends with binder clips. Place them in your inc to colonize for 10 days. When they are ready to fruit after the 10 days they are usually pinning already Once your bags are colonized you can just put them in a room with ample air circulation and some light and they will fruit on their own. I like to open them up when I fruit them and hold them in front of a fan for 30-60 seconds, so the air is blowing down on the surface of the sub and the bag is all poofed out. Then I seal them up until they are ready to harvest. Usually the 1st flush is ready to harvest in about 10 days if you colonized them for 10 days Here are some pics of previous bag grows, most of these pics are 2nd flushes also On average I get 1.5-2oz per bag from 2 flushes (dry weight). Clone cultures do better. Looking down into a couple bags To harvest I like to gently take out the myc brick and pick off the fruits, then put them back for the dunk. To dunk, fill the bags with RO water until the sub floats, then squeeze the air out, and roll the top down all the way to the water level and secure with your binder clips. Ususally 12 hours is plenty for my dunks. I will be spawning 2 colonized bags of some Blue Magnolia this weekend. I will post pics of the 1st flush in about 3 weeks from those 6 bags. As you can see you can still get some monsters. Below is an Alacabenzi monster Feel free to ask any questions or post some results of your own bag grows! I know I didn't get pics of every step, but hopefully the process is easy to understand as written. A few tips also- when spawning your bags, I use the grain bag as the last bag, instead of using a new one. I use new bags when spawning to bulk, then I use those bags as grain bags. You can re-use your grain bags a few times before tossing them also. Thanks for reading!! Happy growing everyone!! Whew, time for a smoke break
  9. Hi everyone, first time grower here. It looks like the mycelium is growing slowly around the sides of the casing. This is 7 days in, and I feel like things should be going faster. I'm using the WBS 6 quart tub tek. Colonization was slow as hell and wasn't 100%, more like 70% because it had been more than a month and I had shaken it multiple times to spread the mycelium and I figured that it was the best I was going to get. Spawn run lasted about 12 days, the surface wasn't 100% white but mostly covered and looked hairy. I've put on the peat moss/vermiculite layer and am misting/fanning 3x a day, with perhaps too much misting but maybe not? Anyway, I figured maybe my casing layer is contaminated or maybe this psilocybe cubensis just grows slow as hell, but in any case please lend me your wisdom, thank you.
  10. GT pin porn

    Yesterday i saw a few hyphal knots turning to pins, today it's full blown pin city, hopefully two more days till I got a couple oz, these are just two of ten tubs I got going so right now, any feedback is appreciated
  11. Hi guys, yesterday i puted my print of equador from FSRE into heated owen on 200 C for 20 mins by mistake. Did i destroyed print???
  12. Hello all, after 12 days in my incubator (75F) i started to pull by bulk sub-straight out to introduce to fruiting conditions. but the top layer of the sub is not 100% (about 50%) colonized on the 2 trays that i checked so far. there seems to be no sign of contams. Is it still ok to birth them to fruiting. (will upload pictures later). im using 80% choir 20% verm for my bulk sub.
  13. How does this jar look to you

    i would like an opinion of my jar please. this photo was taken after shaking the jar around 60% do distribute the spawn. just wanna make sure its nice and healthy.
  14. 04.jpg

    Colombian (photos) and B+ cubensis bulked to coco coir/verm/gypsum. After birthing, BRF cakes (brown rice flour cakes - see PF Tek) were left for 2 days in clean water with some gympsum added and then layered with coco coir in small circular plastic pots that can be easily added or taken out of the fruiting chamber as required. My new fruiting chamber is an aquarium with a 6500k grow light. I lined the bottom with prepared perlite and placed a bucket of bottle water in the chamber with fish tank ceramic buublers to increase the humidity and provide FAE (Frequent Air Exchange) There is an air pump pushing air through the ceramic bubblers which can be bought at any decently stocked pet shop. I currently have 8 pots in the tank with another 10 on the way. Second ever grow and its already much improved over the first thanks to SHROOMOLOGY. I will write a detailed tek in full for the third if anyone is interested.
  15. KSSS PF Tek

    Day 10 After inoculation with MS solution, 12/12 lighting, Room Temp 75F.
  16. 03.jpg

    Colombian (photos) and B+ cubensis bulked to coco coir/verm/gypsum. After birthing, BRF cakes (brown rice flour cakes - see PF Tek) were left for 2 days in clean water with some gympsum added and then layered with coco coir in small circular plastic pots that can be easily added or taken out of the fruiting chamber as required. My new fruiting chamber is an aquarium with a 6500k grow light. I lined the bottom with prepared perlite and placed a bucket of bottle water in the chamber with fish tank ceramic buublers to increase the humidity and provide FAE (Frequent Air Exchange) There is an air pump pushing air through the ceramic bubblers which can be bought at any decently stocked pet shop. I currently have 8 pots in the tank with another 10 on the way. Second ever grow and its already much improved over the first thanks to SHROOMOLOGY. I will write a detailed tek in full for the third if anyone is interested.
  17. 02.jpg

    Colombian (photos) and B+ cubensis bulked to coco coir/verm/gypsum. After birthing, BRF cakes (brown rice flour cakes - see PF Tek) were left for 2 days in clean water with some gympsum added and then layered with coco coir in small circular plastic pots that can be easily added or taken out of the fruiting chamber as required. My new fruiting chamber is an aquarium with a 6500k grow light. I lined the bottom with prepared perlite and placed a bucket of bottle water in the chamber with fish tank ceramic buublers to increase the humidity and provide FAE (Frequent Air Exchange) There is an air pump pushing air through the ceramic bubblers which can be bought at any decently stocked pet shop. I currently have 8 pots in the tank with another 10 on the way. Second ever grow and its already much improved over the first thanks to SHROOMOLOGY. I will write a detailed tek in full for the third if anyone is interested.
  18. 01.jpg

    Colombian (photos) and B+ cubensis bulked to coco coir/verm/gypsum. After birthing, BRF cakes (brown rice flour cakes - see PF Tek) were left for 2 days in clean water with some gympsum added and then layered with coco coir in small circular plastic pots that can be easily added or taken out of the fruiting chamber as required. My new fruiting chamber is an aquarium with a 6500k grow light. I lined the bottom with prepared perlite and placed a bucket of bottle water in the chamber with fish tank ceramic buublers to increase the humidity and provide FAE (Frequent Air Exchange) There is an air pump pushing air through the ceramic bubblers which can be bought at any decently stocked pet shop. I currently have 8 pots in the tank with another 10 on the way. Second ever grow and its already much improved over the first thanks to SHROOMOLOGY. I will write a detailed tek in full for the third if anyone is interested.
  19. This will be a log of my 2nd-ever grow attempt. My first grow is still in the fruiting stage. Made an LC from the same MSS I used to nocc WBS jars directly for my first grow. That LC was ready to be used so I nocced 6 WBS jars just now. On my first grow I'm using a grain spawn bag I bought from a vendor and 5 z-tubs I made myself. When I was spawning to bulk in the z-tubs I realized how much of pain in the ass it is to spawn to 5 little tubs, so I figured for my next grow I'd use the monotub since it seems more efficient and may have better yields. I understand the inherent risk that if there's tam I lose my whole batch instead of maybe 1 or 2 little tubs. Anyway, here are my 6 jars ready to put into the TiT incubator. Let's see how it goes! p.s. the ship fell off one of the jars when I was wiping it down prior to putting it in the glovebox for noccing, lol.
  20. Possible mold? Help a newbie

    Hey everyone! I recently started my own grow after doing some research and I'm curious about the progress of my BRF jars. I inoculated them about 2 weeks ago and I haven't really seen much growth until recently. I'm trying to figure out if what I have going on is some kind of tam and I should just toss it or if I should wait it out
  21. Grow Off?

    I am hosting a grow off, a friendly one. I will send cubensis spores to the participants, and there will be rules set. There can be multiple participants, and the point will be to benefit the community, especially the noobs and peeps who havent gotten spores from SOS, by giving away the prints you take from thsi grow-off. I have a few prints to play with, but agar work would be needed. Please post here if you want to participate. If you can 'noc agar platees and then transfer to grain, that would be a plus. Also, if you have any clean fresh prints you wanna donate that would help (cough, MM cambo, cough) Ok lets get this Grow Of started!
  22. Hi, i am wondering why they stopped growing after first flush?they are just staying half size and nothing happening since couple of days. humidity is okay 90-95% and i do fan 2-3times a day + the light is 12/12... a quick advice will be highly appreciated! thanks
  23. This is my fist grow. Ive followed the WBS bulk grow tek outlined here. Ive used ZTubs as my fruiting tek. And I really wish I'd started a grow log like it was suggested to me in the beginning! Next time I will. So a week or so ago this tub appeared to possibly be contaminated. I'll try to find pics that I posted of what looked like maybe cobweb. I decided to open up tub and treat with h2o2 and try to save it. I had another tub starting to fruit, so after spraying I set it aside and honestly kinda forgot about it. Then I saw that it was starting to pin so I began nursing it. Misting and fanning. This is what I've ended up with. They smell fine, and nothing visibly different with them. So what do yall think? Safe?This last pic is what the "contamination" looked like. I know its difficult to determine much from pics, just curious about opinions. Thanks!
  24. Hey guys, I'm new to the cultivation of mushrooms and i need a bit of help figuring out if this blue-ish green marks on my cake is contamination or just bruising. Any feedback would be appreciated and also let me know if the pictures aren't good to tell. Thanks for the support.
  25. Hello all, this is where I will continue to somewhat record my goings on. I would like to get into edibles next, lions mane in particular. So I've got three nice monos done or near done with their first flush. 100% success rate this round. I've got my sanitation methods down finally and I think I've found a nice groove. Anyway the porn! 2 Cambodian tubs and 1 AA+ (LA+) tub. I gotta say it was a real treat watching these white little ladies grow. Really tough and fiberous mycelium, medium colonization rate. 1 Cambodian tub was just ok. The other one will be ready in 24 hours. 2 Y Los blancos I want to emphasize the importance of rotating your mono every 48 hours. If you look below you can tell that one side pinned more profusely because I was late a few days to rotate the tub 180degrees.
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