Welcome to Shroomology

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.

Search the Community: Showing results for tags 'cubensis'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Administrative and Introduction Forums
    • Welcome to Shroomology!
    • Computer and Internet Saftey
    • Pre-TEKS
    • Shroomology's Sponsors Forum
  • Mushroom Growing Help
    • General Mushroom Cultivation Questions
    • Advanced Mushroom Cultivation
    • Contamination
  • Mushroom Growing Techniques, Equipment and Tutorials
    • Getting Started Growing Mushrooms
    • Mushroom Growing Tutorials
    • Member Grow Logs
  • Mushroom and Species Information
    • Psychedelic Mushroom Information
    • Medicinal Mushroom Information
    • Wild Mushroom Hunting/Foraging
  • General Interests, and Off Topic Forums
    • General Psychedelia
    • Cannabis, Cacti, and other Cool Plants
    • The Upper Decker
    • Non-Sponsor Vendor Review
    • Hall of Fame

Found 70 results

  1. Hi everyone, first time grower here. It looks like the mycelium is growing slowly around the sides of the casing. This is 7 days in, and I feel like things should be going faster. I'm using the WBS 6 quart tub tek. Colonization was slow as hell and wasn't 100%, more like 70% because it had been more than a month and I had shaken it multiple times to spread the mycelium and I figured that it was the best I was going to get. Spawn run lasted about 12 days, the surface wasn't 100% white but mostly covered and looked hairy. I've put on the peat moss/vermiculite layer and am misting/fanning 3x a day, with perhaps too much misting but maybe not? Anyway, I figured maybe my casing layer is contaminated or maybe this psilocybe cubensis just grows slow as hell, but in any case please lend me your wisdom, thank you.
  2. Got my first set of jars incubating, just inoculated them and set them up! Used millet and milo mix in a NSNS method. Have a few questions for everyone! Love all the info on here, wouldn't have even got started without you guys! Has anyone ever used nyjer or thistle seed as a base? Why pressure cook everything? Wouldn't a nice long bath in standard boiling water be just as effective at sterilization - only a 20-35 degree difference?
  3. This is a tek I used for years before I built a greenhouse. It is just as automated as my GH is and it gets great results. You only use bags for this tek, no jars, no tubs, no FC. Colonized grain bags get spawned to substrate bags, colonized then just set out to fruit. Ok, let's get started. You will need large spawn bags with a 0.5 micron filter patch. You can use the 0.2 micron bags for your grain but they won't do well for fruiting. Use your favorite grain and grain prep method. Here I am using oats. To prep them I put my dry grain in a bucket and poured boiling water in. I put the sealing lid on and let them sit for a few hours to hydrate. Once your grain is hydrated, drain well and load up your bags. I usually like to make each bag to be the same amout of grain as 4 jars, assuming the jars are 60-70% full. You can put more or less grain in each bag, that just works for me and they fit well in my PC. NOTE: If you like to put dry verm in the bottom of your jars with your WBS, don't panic!! This tek will still work with bags. If you are putting about 3-4 jars worth of grain in each bag, 1 cup of dry verm at the bottom of the bag works perfectly. The 1st couple of scoops of grain you put in the bag, just be careful to keep the verm on the bottom, just like loading your jars. Here are some oats that are ready to be loaded into bags. The pic below is a bag with only about 3 qt jars of grain in it, it will make 3 spawn bags when it is fully colonized. Once the grain is loaded, you have to get the air out. Here is how I seal up the bags- I make the tops like they would be w/o sub, so they fold down evenly. I work my way down to the sub level, and roll the bag until it reaches the filter patch: See how all the air is out of the bag but it is easy to fold the top down to the filter? Once it looks like this, fold the top down to the top of the filter and secure each end with binder clips, then secure each end with new rubber bands as tight as they can go. SIDE NOTE: I like to put a dab of silicone on the filter patch the night before I PC the grain, when you start prepping your grain, so it will be dry for the PC. This is a SHIP which will allow you to inoculate your grain with LC or spore solution in open air. Just make sure your SHIPs are on the part of the filter that is sealed to the bag, not the excess filter on the top and bottom as seen above. A couple of those pics were from a different grow, but making the bags is the same whether it's grain or substrate. Now it's time to load them into the PC. You want to separate the bags from the sides of the PC and from each other so they can heat more evenly. I put jar rings between the bags and on the ends so the bags aren't pushing against the side of the PC. They can melt or warp. You can use balls of tin foil as well as seen in the pic below. Now put the other 2 bags perpendicular to the bottom ones. When the bags are loaded put a plate upside down on the top 2 bags in case the rubber bands break and clog the steam vent. PC your grain for 90-120 mins and let cool completely before inoculating. I like to blow some air at the bags for a few mins to get some air back in there. You can put them in front of your flowhood or a fan, this is not necessary though. Prepare a syringe with LC or use a spore syringe, then flame your needle, spray your SHIP with alc or Lysol to serilize it, and inject it into your SHIP, making sure not to stick it through the back of the bag. I usually use 3-4cc of LC per bag, spore solution about half that. Try to aim at the sides of the bag and let your LC or spore solution run down the sides into the grain. This way you can see the colonization and you will know when to "shake" your bags to speed up colonization. One trick I've learned is to hold the SHIP when pulling out the needle so you don't pull the silicone off of the filter patch. I like to pull the filter away from the back of the bag and hold it sideways when I noc the bags so I don't poke a hole through the plastic. If you do try to tape it up as soon as you can and hope for the best. Once your bags look 20-50% colonized, give them a good shake. I start by kneading the bag with your hand until all the colonized chunks are broken up, then shake the bag until it is evenly mixed. Once fully colonized it is time to spawn to your substrate in new 0.5 micron bags. Prep your substrate of choice like you would any other tek. You can PC bags of substrate then add colonized grain, but if you don't have a flowhood I would recommend pasteurizing your sub. My recipe of choice is equal parts cmc/coir/verm/ with some gypsom and lime. I throw everything in a bucket, mix it up, and pour boiling water in so it is soupy. Then I put a sealing lid on and leave it overnight to cool (bucket tek). Once cooled I squeeze it out a handful at a time to field capacity and put it in to my new bags. I love pasteurizing this way, it works with any type of substrate mix and my tam rate is zero. You can do this in open air as well, just make sure your work area is clean, work quickly and don't have any air circulation in the room (like a fan or AC vent blowing on your work area). When spawning your bags, don't go over 4" thick. This will give you 3-4 flushes, but I like to make them about 2" thick. You will get 2 good flushes and then the sub is spent. Also, don't use more than 50% grain. I do about 50/50 for my bags, usually 25-50% grain is good. Once you have made all of your bags, fold the tops down to the filter and secure the ends with binder clips. Place them in your inc to colonize for 10 days. When they are ready to fruit after the 10 days they are usually pinning already Once your bags are colonized you can just put them in a room with ample air circulation and some light and they will fruit on their own. I like to open them up when I fruit them and hold them in front of a fan for 20-30 seconds, then seal them up until they are ready to harvest. Usually the 1st flush is ready to harvest in about 10 days if you colonized them for 10 days Here are some pics of previous bag grows, most of these pics are 2nd flushes also On average I get 1.5-2oz per bag from 2 flushes (dry weight). Clone cultures do better. Looking down into a couple bags To harvest I like to gently take out the myc brick and pick off the fruits, then put them back for the dunk. To dunk, fill the bags with RO water until the sub floats, then squeeze the air out, and roll the top down all the way to the water level and secure with your binder clips. Ususally 12 hours is plenty for my dunks. I will be spawning 2 colonized bags of some Blue Magnolia this weekend. I will post pics of the 1st flush in about 3 weeks from those 6 bags. As you can see you can still get some monsters. Below is an Alacabenzi monster Feel free to ask any questions or post some results of your own bag grows! I know I didn't get pics of every step, but hopefully the process is easy to understand as written. A few tips also- when spawning your bags, I use the grain bag as the last bag, instead of using a new one. I use new bags when spawning to bulk, then I use those bags as grain bags. You can re-use your grain bags a few times before tossing them also. Thanks for reading!! Happy growing everyone!! Whew, time for a smoke break
  4. i would like an opinion of my jar please. this photo was taken after shaking the jar around 60% do distribute the spawn. just wanna make sure its nice and healthy.
  5. Colombian (photos) and B+ cubensis bulked to coco coir/verm/gypsum. After birthing, BRF cakes (brown rice flour cakes - see PF Tek) were left for 2 days in clean water with some gympsum added and then layered with coco coir in small circular plastic pots that can be easily added or taken out of the fruiting chamber as required. My new fruiting chamber is an aquarium with a 6500k grow light. I lined the bottom with prepared perlite and placed a bucket of bottle water in the chamber with fish tank ceramic buublers to increase the humidity and provide FAE (Frequent Air Exchange) There is an air pump pushing air through the ceramic bubblers which can be bought at any decently stocked pet shop. I currently have 8 pots in the tank with another 10 on the way. Second ever grow and its already much improved over the first thanks to SHROOMOLOGY. I will write a detailed tek in full for the third if anyone is interested.
  6. Colombian (photos) and B+ cubensis bulked to coco coir/verm/gypsum. After birthing, BRF cakes (brown rice flour cakes - see PF Tek) were left for 2 days in clean water with some gympsum added and then layered with coco coir in small circular plastic pots that can be easily added or taken out of the fruiting chamber as required. My new fruiting chamber is an aquarium with a 6500k grow light. I lined the bottom with prepared perlite and placed a bucket of bottle water in the chamber with fish tank ceramic buublers to increase the humidity and provide FAE (Frequent Air Exchange) There is an air pump pushing air through the ceramic bubblers which can be bought at any decently stocked pet shop. I currently have 8 pots in the tank with another 10 on the way. Second ever grow and its already much improved over the first thanks to SHROOMOLOGY. I will write a detailed tek in full for the third if anyone is interested.
  7. Colombian (photos) and B+ cubensis bulked to coco coir/verm/gypsum. After birthing, BRF cakes (brown rice flour cakes - see PF Tek) were left for 2 days in clean water with some gympsum added and then layered with coco coir in small circular plastic pots that can be easily added or taken out of the fruiting chamber as required. My new fruiting chamber is an aquarium with a 6500k grow light. I lined the bottom with prepared perlite and placed a bucket of bottle water in the chamber with fish tank ceramic buublers to increase the humidity and provide FAE (Frequent Air Exchange) There is an air pump pushing air through the ceramic bubblers which can be bought at any decently stocked pet shop. I currently have 8 pots in the tank with another 10 on the way. Second ever grow and its already much improved over the first thanks to SHROOMOLOGY. I will write a detailed tek in full for the third if anyone is interested.
  8. Colombian (photos) and B+ cubensis bulked to coco coir/verm/gypsum. After birthing, BRF cakes (brown rice flour cakes - see PF Tek) were left for 2 days in clean water with some gympsum added and then layered with coco coir in small circular plastic pots that can be easily added or taken out of the fruiting chamber as required. My new fruiting chamber is an aquarium with a 6500k grow light. I lined the bottom with prepared perlite and placed a bucket of bottle water in the chamber with fish tank ceramic buublers to increase the humidity and provide FAE (Frequent Air Exchange) There is an air pump pushing air through the ceramic bubblers which can be bought at any decently stocked pet shop. I currently have 8 pots in the tank with another 10 on the way. Second ever grow and its already much improved over the first thanks to SHROOMOLOGY. I will write a detailed tek in full for the third if anyone is interested.
  9. Hey everyone! I recently started my own grow after doing some research and I'm curious about the progress of my BRF jars. I inoculated them about 2 weeks ago and I haven't really seen much growth until recently. I'm trying to figure out if what I have going on is some kind of tam and I should just toss it or if I should wait it out
  10. Well its my first time growing and I felt ambitious so I tried bulk. four jars look good but ones gone bad. at first I thought it was ok and it was just the dark seed color giving it a green tinge but princess said it was done for she was right. oh well 4 out of 5 ain't bad. I'll keep a log of pics and updates and I'll probably ask for help but I'm glad we found a forum. here's some pics of the contaminated jar
  11. Im not sure what to make of this slight discoloration in my spawn..
  12. Do you think it's time for a second flush after I take out the mature shrooms? All other pins are stalling. Some are slightly blue and some seem normal. If I need a second flush can anyone advise me if I need to pull any of the pins before dunking? In one of the photos you can see some spores accidentally dropped but that's the only spot. It just sorta seems like it's dried out and I don't want to lose all the pins I have if they aren't already aborts... I've already collected an oz dry from these 3 tubs if that info helps, I just feel like I should be getting more from my first flush on 3 dub tubs p.s. when I try and start a topic im extremely limited to the categories I have to choose from. Like a lot are showing but are unavailable for me to click on, not sure if this is because I'm new here or something but I want to make sure I'm starting topics in the correct categories
  13. I have had a few problems with grain to grain transfer with my mycelium jars. I have attempted it twice and failed both times. From start to finish, here was my order of operations: -Built a room with the cheapest material I could come across in a bedroom in my home specifically for grain to grain transfers. The room is made up of 2x4 planks and plastic sheets. -Before entering the room, I staged rubbing alcohol (90%), non powdered nitrile gloves, paper towel, the jars with sterilized grain (I know that the moisture content was correct in these; I've brought 18 quart jars to fruit since I've started and fully understand that grains must be hydrated but not wet to the touch), and the fully colonized grain spawn (which I broke up beforehand). I also made sure to shower and wear clean laundry before entering the room. -I went into the room, I put on my nitrile gloves and sterilized them with the alcohol. I sterilized the air by spraying Lysol at the top of the room, on the walls, and in the air. Shortly after I wiped down the desk and chair with alcohol. Once the furniture was sterilized, I began wiping down my jars. On my second attempt I took extra care in this step. I wiped the jars down twice and re-sterilized my gloves each time I finished wiping down 4 jars. After wiping everything down, I sprayed the air once more with Lysol. -Immediately after sterilizing, I calmly but quickly loosened each jar a quarter turn. Once I was confident that there were no contaminants in the air, I re-sterilized my gloves, opened up the mother jar, and began dumping a decent amount into each jar one at a time. The jars were closed as quickly as I could close them after each transfer. I did not use a flowhood, surgical mask, or hairnet but I was careful to only breathe through only my nose during the procedure. I held my breath each time I opened a jar of grain for transfer. the contaminants ranged from green mold to bacteria. Does anyone have any advice for me? Everything I read from other forums doesn't seem to give me a solid answer although I could very well be looking in the wrong places.
  14. Hi there fellow growers, brand new to the site. Since starting have had no problems with contams, injection port and polyfill made for 100 inoculation rate. Transferred some to plastic containers others to the fridge until I need them. They tookover the coir/verm substrate quite fast. After 5 days threw them in fc, mycellium tookover everything. This is day 5 of fc and no signs of piining, now I'm worried contams are starting. If you look in the pic there's 2 small light yellowish looking spots. However they have not grown in size since they appeared. Temp 74 humidity 93 or above fanning 3 times and have perlite under them. Thoughts if contams and if it's going to pin?
  15. Hi everyone, I'm growing shrooms for the first time and was pleased with initial stages and transition into the terrarium. There, after a few days, I began to notice something strange: http://tinypic.com/r/309ih6h/9 http://tinypic.com/r/e7o5zk/9 http://tinypic.com/r/4hfe37/9 http://tinypic.com/r/zv7ekk/9 The first three images show a blue something covering the majority of the cakes and some parts of the shrooms. (I was worried about the caps but I read up that the dark purple areas are just spores.) Is it bruising or contamination? I wiped some of the blue spots with a clean Q-tip and nothing came off, which suggests bruising, but it's so widespread that I'm worried. The three blue cakes are also the only ones that I dunked, so maybe that caused the excessive bruising? Or exposed them to contaminants. Also the color definitely seems *blue* to me, but could it be green mold? I'm wondering if in that last pic I've got cobweb. The guide said that white fluffy mycelium will cover the cakes after the first few days, but after reading about contaminants here for a few hours, I'm starting to get paranoid. Or perhaps just reasonably worried. I'd love to get some input about this from more experienced growers. Thanks for your time!
  16. It's been exactly 7 days since I added my casing layer to the monotub and no pinning. Am I doing this right? I copied the monotub design from Mush Zombie's bulk 60 quart STERILITE tek. I listened to his advice throughout the entire tek and everything was a breeze until I had to decide on a casing layer. So I choose to bring some Jiffy Mix Seed Starter with a slight amount of coarse grade vermiculite to field capacity and pasteurized (90 minutes at 10 psi). Spread the casing over the colonized substrate about 0.5 inches in depth. The RH has been around 99% but I fanned it out today and now the RH says 92%. Ambient temperatures have been kept between 68-72F. Should i spray and mist everyday? From what Mush Zombie said outside of his monotub tek (how to get the perfect pin set), its best to mist with at least 16 ounces of distilled water everyday and fan as needed. However, I am aware that MZ has also stated not to spary and mist a monotub cause it's supposed to be a set and forget tek. Ambient sunlight has been present from the start as well as a fan circulating air in the room. There is weatherstripping on the lid and I made sure that the polyfill was loosened a bit. How do I get this casing layer to begin the pinning process? This is a Cambodian strain as well.
  17. Pardon another noob question, I feel like I should know the answer to this... So I was out of town for a tad longer than expected and I come back to find that my GT have jizzed spores all over the cakes. Are the cakes ruined, or are they okay? And if they're not ruined, can I scrap spores off of them to use? Or are the spores contaminated? The first pic is the mushrooms before harvest, the second is the nekkid cakes after harvest.. Again, I'm new at this, so if you're super mean and condescending, I will run away crying. Or maybe just make a rude gesture toward the computer and fart in your general direction.
  18. Hi, I've got some very "unlikely" looking Cubensis Cambodians out of my growbox. Unlikely because of the stripes or dark spots and because they look so shrumpy/wrinkled (both on their cap, the stem looks fine from what I know). Here are some pics of them: Box from above: Box from the side: Close-Up wrinkled and striped Shroom: Close-Up not so wrinkled but striped Shroom: Opened cap (looks normal for me): And for reference how the first flush out of the same box looked: Does anyone has an idea what this could be? It doesn't look like an extraneous substance to me, so I don't think its ordinary mold.
  19. 3rd time trying to post this.. Hope if works this time.. My lowdown> Liquid culture colonized with south american. WBS and rye cleaned and soaked in hot water for 2-3 hours. 1/16 hole in metal lid, tyvec on top of lid with high temp gasket maker on the tyvec. Pressure cooked at 15psi for 15 min. My question is how dry can the spawn get? It seems dry to me but this is my first time doing this tek. I usually do verm/BRF cakes.
  20. So I started out with 3 spore syringes and ended up with 12 jars the first 6 I used 2 syringes and only got 4 of the "Orissa India" and 2 of the "Creeper"! For the second batch of 6 I used 1 full (B+) syringe and got all 6 jars! ( First time using syringes ) So I just wanted to know how these look I know the one has a bit of black forming on it and was curious if this is normal? Also they seem to be colonizing different from others could this be because I let my vermiculite get to moist, or possibly packed to tight because it is so moist? Anyways here are some pictures. So these 2 pictures are the same jar the "Creeper" strain I can see 2 small black dots forming and was wondering if this is normal or some type of contamination? Any information or some advice would be helpful! Below are some shots of the "Orissa India" strain I think these ones are not doing to well due to the amount of moisture I left in the vermiculite. Once again any advice would be helpful I have been searching the forums but just would like someones opinion to put my mind at rest. These are the 4 jars I feel have to much moisture and compared to the other 6 are not doing as good. So below is the second batch I did I learned from the first one being more careful with syringes and to make sure the vermiculite is perfect field capacity! but anyways here's the rest of them! This one here is going a lot slower then other 5 for some reason. Thanks for all the help and getting me started on this great learning process but if someone could give me some advice that would be fantastic! Thanks, Knewfie! Stay Safe!
  21. Here is a 6qt tub that I spawned 16 days ago. It's one of three. The other two colonized great. This one did nothing. On the sides and bottom none of the grains put out any myc into the sub. I was surpised to find this stuff on top. There is cube myc on one side, and something I haven't seen before on the other. There was also a spot of green down in one corner but I already put my camera away. It's smells like a rotting apple at the bottom of a tree. You know, the ones we would throw at each other as kids. It smells of alcohol too, but not as strong. When I spawned them I remember 2 jars were not right when I banged it on the bike tire. They were kinda wet and mushy. I knew something was up with them but I tested them out.
  22. This is my first grow and I thought it was going well until I heard about cobweb contamination. Can someone identify if I do have a contamination? Thank you.
  23. So i have some cube syringes that i would like to bury in the earth in a safe container to hide them as well as kkep them preserved..i know i will have to do my own research but i was wondering if you all could give me advice maybe a better idea or improvements or genereal knowledge of the idea i understand cube syringes can last long periods of time at room temp say 72 degrees so couldnt i just figure out the geothermal depth thats equivelant to 72 and put them in a air/earth/water tight container to preserve them..also in my location its cold outside 31-42 daily
  24. ok so ive had my ear to the streets and i have heard about a process to extract the good chemicals in shrooms and make them into a paste that can then be rolled into tootsie roll wrappers to look like tootsie rolls with all the same fun as the real shrooms i found some info here http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/5778771 but i dont trust the shroomery site as they dont seem to know much...you will have to do a small bit of reading to see what everyone says..theres also breif instructions on how to make the goo...does anyone on here know of this? a how to tek? also any other info would be greatly appreciated thanks
  25. So I birthed a few cakes today and saw some clear node like things protruding out? No smell or anything. Can't seem to find anything about them. Has anyone else ever seen them? Can't get a clear picture but they are clear/transparent bumps.