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  1. Ok, so I need some assistance. In the past I helped a friend with his cultivation and picked up some great tips and tricks along the way. Here I am 7 years later and I am starting up my own cultivation and experiments. So far I have crafted a glove box out of a clear, weatherproof tote that worked very well for the inoculation process. I have also designed and created an incubation chamber out of an ice chest, a reptile heating pad, and an on/off thermometer switch. It's working great and I am currently two weeks past inoculation with amazing and beautifully healthy mycelium. I've broken it up twice already (it's on grain spawn) but I think I will need to do this more often, the second time was fairly difficult to break up. Moving on to why I am posting this in the first place..... I have uploaded a picture here. It's a crude drawing on paint but I think it is fairly comprehensible. Basically I designed this fruiting chamber off some similar work I did with my buddy 7 years ago and wanted to run it past the minds on this board to see what you all think, and what could be improved. The idea here is that once I swap to my bulk sub (coco+verm) in a Sterilite 6qt. "shoebox" and it is fully inoculated I will place the box into the fruiting chamber (a larger Sterilite) and from there it should be pretty much automated until it's time to harvest. I'll have four of these fruiting chamber total to start, but there is one air pump and fogger for every two chambers, hence the drawing. Before you ask why the 4 chambers as opposed to one or two monotubs there are several reasons. One is space, this setup fits into my closet much nicer than the larger tubs. Second is quality, if there is an issue with one for any reason I can toss it and still have the others. Third is experimentation, this will allow me to try different subs at the same time on the same strains for a side-by-side comparison. Last is quantity, I can cultivate different stains at the same time or rotate them in a manner that allows for near constant harvesting if done properly. The airpump and fogger/mister are hooked up to the same power supply, which will be kicked on and off either by a timer or by a hydrometer placed inside one of the chambers for FAE and humidity. This way I can either use a timer to kick on the automated FAE several times a day or set the hydrometer to something like 100% humidity which will kick on when it drops below that. Whether or not to go with a timer or a hydrometer is one thing I would like to answer here with your help. The fogger/mister water will likely have about a cap full of hydrogen peroxide just to help cut down on any possible contams. The air from the pump will be fed into the fogger/mister pot and will in turn feed the humidified air from there into the fruiting chambers. The 6qt. "shoebox" will be raised off the floor of the fruiting chamber, this should allow the CO2 to sink to the bottom of the chamber and be expelled through a one-way valve whenever the airpump/fogger/FAE system kicks on. So, thoughts? Critiques? Wanna tell me how stupid this is? Or is it brilliant? Kinda piecing it together from memory of when I helped my buddy as well as some modification from my own thoughts. His setup worked great so I know something like this is doable...... well?
  2. Dez

    Please help!

    Can you please help me identify if this is mold and contaminated? This is my first time growing and i am still in the trials and errors stage. I started growing B+, Amazon, Brazil and Mazapatec. Harvested about 350g Brazil(wet), 700g B+(wet) and 300g Amazon(wet) so far. In the last couple of days, the color in the bins started changing and i am worried about my babies. No funny smells coming from the bins yet.
  3. Hey friends, New here and have cultivated before but I am a practicing analytical chemist and getting the hang of doing bulk mycology work as a hobby. Trying to get some help from the community on identifying some of these odd looking occurrences in my mono-tub spawned off oat grain and grown in bags from LC using MS syringe. I understand there is an immune response occurring but specifically I would like to : -identify the microbes if one may be spotted by you more adept cultivators. Thank you much -how likely am I to see a good flush, the pinning seems to be uneven and slow compared to other bins (5-6 days longer to form pins) Thanks you. -Nanowerk
  4. Ok, so I need some assistance. In the past I helped a friend with his cultivation and picked up some great tips and tricks along the way. Here I am 7 years later and I am starting up my own cultivation and experiments. So far I have crafted a glove box out of a clear, weatherproof tote that worked very well for the inoculation process. I have also designed and created an incubation chamber out of an ice chest, a reptile heating pad, and an on/off thermometer switch. It's working great and I am currently two weeks past inoculation with amazing and beautifully healthy mycelium. I've broken it up twice already (it's on grain spawn) but I think I will need to do this more often, the second time was fairly difficult to break up. Moving on to why I am posting this in the first place..... I have uploaded a picture here. It's a crude drawing on paint but I think it is fairly comprehensible. Basically I designed this fruiting chamber off some similar work I did with my buddy 7 years ago and wanted to run it past the minds on this board to see what you all think, and what could be improved. The idea here is that once I swap to my bulk sub (coco+verm) in a Sterilite 6qt. "shoebox" and it is fully inoculated I will place the box into the fruiting chamber (a larger Sterilite) and from there it should be pretty much automated until it's time to harvest. I'll have four of these fruiting chamber total to start, but there is one air pump and fogger for every two chambers, hence the drawing. Before you ask why the 4 chambers as opposed to one or two monotubs there are several reasons. One is space, this setup fits into my closet much nicer than the larger tubs. Second is quality, if there is an issue with one for any reason I can toss it and still have the others. Third is experimentation, this will allow me to try different subs at the same time on the same strains for a side-by-side comparison. Last is quantity, I can cultivate different stains at the same time or rotate them in a manner that allows for near constant harvesting if done properly. The airpump and fogger/mister are hooked up to the same power supply, which will be kicked on and off either by a timer or by a hydrometer placed inside one of the chambers for FAE and humidity. This way I can either use a timer to kick on the automated FAE several times a day or set the hydrometer to something like 100% humidity which will kick on when it drops below that. Whether or not to go with a timer or a hydrometer is one thing I would like to answer here with your help. The fogger/mister water will likely have about a cap full of hydrogen peroxide just to help cut down on any possible contams. The air from the pump will be fed into the fogger/mister pot and will in turn feed the humidified air from there into the fruiting chambers. The 6qt. "shoebox" will be raised off the floor of the fruiting chamber, this should allow the CO2 to sink to the bottom of the chamber and be expelled through a one-way valve whenever the airpump/fogger/FAE system kicks on. So, thoughts? Critiques? Wanna tell me how stupid this is? Or is it brilliant? Kinda piecing it together from memory of when I helped my buddy as well as some modification from my own thoughts. His setup worked great so I know something like this is doable...... well?
  5. I'm 14 days into one of my shoebox grows. It doesn't have a liner, I decided to try two without it and see how it went. The top of the substrate looks snowy white and promising but no real pins showing. I found some growing on the sides which I knew could be a possibility without having a liner. Then, for some strange reason I decided to check the bottom, and to my surprise... Holy Moly!! 😲 I couldn't believe what I saw. The substrate shrunk so much that even the bottom pulled up and left room for mushies to grow(a lot of them). I thought damn it'd be nice if these were all on top. So in my haste, I carefully flipped the whole substrate over (without breaking it) 🤞 If anyone has any experience with this kind of thing, do you think I made the right choice to flip it, or should I of just left it to be? Also, do y'all think these mushies will eventually reorient themselves to grow upwards?
  6. I’ve got a 64qt tub with 4in of pasteurized coco/Verm and colonized grain spawn. Been about two weeks and it is looking good. I’ve kept it in the dark the entire time and opened the lid a few times to let fresh air in but I’ve been leaving the lid on 99% of the time. I believe I’m ready to start fruiting though it’s not 100% colonized.. will add a pic later today When it comes to fruiting is it as easy as cracking the lid and adding light, 12on 12off??
  7. What's up everyone. While my grain spawn taking its sweet ass time iv started building my grow box. Iv got a total of 36 jars so I need to work efficiently and smart. The chamber size is 1.2 meters x 1.2 m x 2 meters in hight . Iv made it from a corner wall and some polystyrene sheets. Please what would u recommend I do , and add from the get go . Thanks!
  8. I have been doing a monotub tek for the second time, this time with PE strain Last time I did a monotub I had less than ideal conditions in every step(mold colonizing in 3/4 of the cake style jars, improper soil(yard dirt instead of coco-coir, 80-90 fruiting conditions, flooding my tub continually, 2 1/2 pint colonized jars in a 60qt mono) and still grew 20g's dry. I have a few questions: 1: I am wondering what dry weight I should expect from 3lb's of colonized rye seeds and approx double the amount of coco coir as there is rye seeds in a 60qt monotek. PE strain ?????? (setup is fan/mist often, 12hr light cycle) 2: I am having trouble fruiting and have not seen pins yet and it's been 5 days since I put my chamber into fruiting conditions.(fan/mist, 70-80degrees, 12hr light cycle) I did not wait for the chamber to create the white fuzzy layer entirely before introducing fruiting conditions, but I did wait until there were white fuzzy spots in quarter size diameter around the rye seeds. Did I do something wrong? is it going to be okay? Did I potentially affect my overall yield? Should I continue fruiting conditions, or revert to no light, no mist no fan for a short period? What the tub looks like currently is the attached photo: Any advice would help, or if you want to suggest any improvements.
  9. Good Evening Folks, I'll try to be brief: This is the first grow i've ever attempted, and up until about a week ago I thought I was doing fine. No contams, proper spawning appearance, etc., but I messed up folks. I didn't follow the tek to the letter (apologies to Mush), and I think in doing that I messed up my sub. Hoping that advice here can help me at least salvage the work, as I know it is a viable sub and should be able to fruit. So far: grain spawn from LC, mixed with 80/20 Coir/Verm substrate, no casing layer. I didn't really tamp down the surface with the back of my hand when I finished, i just wanted it mostly level and (I assumed) not at all packed. Where I think I messed up: It had been over 14 days and no pinning. No primordia, no signs, etc. I hadn't really taken off the top too much, so I decided to get a bottle of distilled water and spray the sides of the container as the RH sensor was showing 60% humidity. The temps this container was in weren't entirely stable, dropping to 66F at night, and sometimes (accidentally) 75 during a few days. I moved the bin from one room to the other (Another post tells me this likely caused it to bow in the center), and have kept temps stable between 69-71F. After the surface turned a bit whiter, I assumed the mist had helped...and misted the whole sub with distilled water. I looked in a few days later, and the sub had...pulled away from the sides. I did not use a trash bag. I then pushed lightly at the plastic bins' sides and slowly poured distilled water down each, and then spent 2-3 mins tilting it back and forth to try and get it to evenly absorb until there was no water seeping from side to side. This raised the RH in the chamber and made the sub smell like...what I remember mush tea smelling like. It started fruiting after this. I now know I shouldn't have moved it (or at least had something flat underneath when doing so), and i shouldn't have misted it at all. Should I also not have ever lifted the lid? The tek is simple, 54QT sterilite container no holes, lid just flipped over for FAE. I never fanned at all, just mixed the sub/spawn after getting sub to field capacity, and then put it in a closet. So now I can at least see I didn't "fail". There are fruiting bodies (I feared the LC was just not viable). It's further than I've ever gotten. But, they're only pinning at the sides, with no visible growth on top at all. What's worse, you can see the cracks in the sub? I set it onto a stool briefly while moving it (stupidly) and it bowed UP in the center briefly, cracking the sub. What can I do to save it? Is it too early to try and dunk/flush? I was thinking of: 1. Placing a trash bag/liner over the top, and flipping the container to pop out the sub layer and wrap the liner underneath. OR 2. Following another tek I saw here and spraying the top with my sink sprayer? then flushing it with bottles weighing down the sub, draining it after an hour. It's aggressively side-pinning, and I want to stop that energy waste and prevent contamination from the fruiting bodies rotting due to the collected moisture on the sides. Can i still fruit from this sub, or am I better off starting over? Thanks in advance, the forums really helped me kick all this into motion. I do wish I'd never wasted money on the BRF/Verm/small jars for the cakes, as the grain spawn was much easier to understand, but this entire process has been a fun experience and I can't wait to (eventually) get my first harvest.
  10. Ronico

    First Grow Second Flush

    So my second flush has been collected, this time I think I made a mistake during the induction to the next flush and misted too much as sidepins appeared. I think because of low evaporation in the middle of the substrate. Stil, good champis have developed and its time for the third flush.
  11. Ronico

    First Grow Second Flush

    So my second flush has been collected, this time I think I made a mistake during the induction to the next flush and misted too much as sidepins appeared. I think because of low evaporation in the middle of the substrate. Stil, good champis have developed and its time for the third flush.
  12. Ronico

    First Grow Second Flush

    So my second flush has been collected, this time I think I made a mistake during the induction to the next flush and misted too much as sidepins appeared. I think because of low evaporation in the middle of the substrate. Stil, good champis have developed and its time for the third flush.
  13. Hi guys First of all thanks for all the amazing info here So after colonizing grain jars and getting the fully colonized mycelium does one have to mix it with verm or Coco coir? Or if I just put the fully colonized grains in a grow bag and expose to light and higher temperature it's starts to fruit? I have seen pictures where mushrooms has grown inside a jar. And another question: what does trigger the mycelium to start fruiting? Is it light?
  14. So I know I just had a thread that touch base on this, I just wanna make sure I’m understanding some of the info I gained from researching what some people were saying (mainly Mush’s). No offense everybody else. Every response is and was appreciated. So I read the thread on Light triggering pinning and I found it very, very interesting. i can believe that light doesn’t cause pinning I just want to clarify: Is it the temperature drop that induces? Or is it the removal of carbon dioxide and evaporation of the the sub that induces or is it the combination of both Or even more i believe and know the boomers grow the direction of the light even though i was told they did not by multiple(obviously not reliable) resources. Not on here of course but none the less i thought they didn’t. My last grow i had the light stuck into the top of my tub and they all bunched in the middle. It was a pain in the dick to harvest my first grow pictured i just want to understand
  15. So I know I just had a thread that touch base on this, I just wanna make sure I’m understanding some of the info I gained from researching what some people were saying (mainly Mush’s). No offense everybody else. Every response is and was appreciated. So I read the thread on Light triggering pinning and I found it very, very interesting. i can believe that light doesn’t cause pinning I just want to clarify: Is it the temperature drop that induces? Or is it the removal of carbon dioxide and evaporation of the the sub that induces or is it the combination of both Or even more i believe and know the boomers grow the direction of the light even though i was told they did not by multiple(obviously not reliable) resources. Not on here of course but none the less i thought they didn’t. My last grow i had the light stuck into the top of my tub and they all bunched in the middle. It was a pain in the dick to harvest my first bulk grow pictured i just want to understand
  16. Hey guys. So I'm doing my third grow and I've been pretty successful so far. I was wondering if anyone has tried some sort of Miracle Grow or other sort of nutrients for mushrooms. I've been looking around online but I haven't been able to find anything. Thanks
  17. darkvoyager

    Tale of two monos

    whats up, wanted to share these fruiting tubs and get any comments or advice since my last two tammed (for a few reasons but nonetheless). For the curious the substrate is 7QTS Vermiculite, 6 QTS Poo 4 QTS coir(1/2brick) 2 QTS coffee like a cup of gypsum. 6Qts spawn. 3tsp lime. first tub was in colonization 11 days the second for 10. heres pictures from when I took it out and post casing with 50/50+ ph per MZ tek. I’m also including some outside pics of the tubs. You can see the rings of “air exchange?” around the holes but every time I pop the probe into either they read 99%. First tubs holes are 1”x1” the seconds are 1.5”x1.5” They just came out last night 2/10 but @Mush Zombie says cased subs should ideally be between 70-85% RH so should I try to up the FAE by opening the holes all the way/less poly? Or let continue as is, I’m guessing it’s high as f because the sub Ietting it all loose lol
  18. I'm working on my first grow. I have some cakes that are filling in right now, and I have them at about 80 degrees using a root warming pad. The air temperature right now is in the high 60's low 70's because it's winter now, so when I want to start these fruiting, I just need to take them out of where they are and put them pretty much anywhere else and the temperature will be perfect, I think. But what happens in a few months when summer comes, and it is consistently 80 to 90 degrees? How do you go about getting them into the cooler fruiting temperature? I don't want to run an A/C unit, not even a portable one, just for these guys! Please advise...
  19. kingbuzz

    Help!! Mold?

    Please help! Shrooms are pinning nicely, but now I'm getting the dreaded stuff that looks like mold. I assume this is more than bruising. Should I be concerned? Should I toss everything? Are the shrooms salvageable?
  20. Hello! I'm a noob here with just a couple posts, and this is my first grow. Seems like this took years LOL! To recap, my first issue was grain spawn progress getting stuck, which turned out to be because I had omitted Tyvek on my jars. Once it was pointed out to me that the myc was suffocating, I took a chance and poked through the silicone seal and hoped for the best. Out of seven jars I did this to, two became obviously contaminated. I dug a hole in the backyard, threw an old log into it and poured the tammed jars in and buried, hoping for a surprise later. Bottom line, don't skip the Tyvek! Next, I took my five remaining jars and put each in a 6qt tub with coir, mixed it all up, made sure the surface was even but not packed, covered each with foil and put back in the incubator to spawn. Problem was, since my grain got stuck earlier, I was now running into the holidays with a planned trip. So after 14 days in the incubator (and right before my holiday trip), on the advice of @Mushinist (THANK YOU!) I opened them up for casing, intending to case and put back into the incubator for 4 more days until I returned. Opening each up I only had one of them tammed, it was also planted in the backyard with a log and a prayer. The remaining four looked healthy. I didn't say they looked good. I think that my sub was a little too moist, and it was unevenly moist -- I had PC'ed it in a bag, and a lot of the moisture had pooled in the lower part of the bag, so getting the field capacity right was difficult. I wasn't off enough to kill it, but the surface of two tubs were very moist and it seemed like the more moisture there was the more uneven it got. Anyway, I cased the four tubs with the 50/50+ recipe using peat and verm and put them in the incubator until I returned from my holiday trip. A note on the casing: it was difficult for me to measure the peat as a volume measurement as per the recipe. I mean, the stuff is not dense. Are you supposed to mash it down? If so how much? What about all the stems and sticks? It seemed like after PCing the verm turned to mud with metallic flecks and the peat just disappeared, so my casing was more verm than anything. It still worked though, with some difficulties I will point out in a minute. Cracking open the incubator, things still looked good (i.e., no tam!) but some of the myc had just partied on the casing layer so everything was even more uneven. I dropped the temp to 68-ish and began fanning and misting. Soon I had pins (pencil is only for size reference, not pointing at anything). Then I had some mushies coming up. This was really just amazing to watch as a first-timer. Before I knew it, it was time to harvest. In each tub, some fruit was ready earlier than others, a lot earlier. I ended up picking those that had dropped the veil and were starting to drop spores, and fanned and misted the others to harvest no more than 12-14 hours later. This seemed to work pretty well as it gave the smaller fruits more time to grow and bulk up, which they did. Now here is where I had some trouble with the casing. I don't know if this is just part of the harvest for everyone, but the areas of myc that had broken through the casing tended to grow multiple stems on the same base, and these were difficult to get out -- the shrooms that had grown individually were relatively easy to twist and rock out, but the multiples always brought a good chuck of myc with them. Moreover, since the casing layer was heavy on the verm, the bases had these little paper-thin metallic verm flecks that were super hard to clean off. So much so that I really want to avoid verm as a casing material if possible! I got a toothbrush and cleaned them up as much as possible, but it was not a good time and I ended up just cutting a lot of it off. This photo shows what I'm talking about. Very messy. I don't have a digital scale (yet), but a kitchen scale showed yields (fresh) of about 14oz per tub, which at this point seems like a lifetime supply of medicine! (And in the meantime, trying to refine my technique I started another 7 jars. They are looking amazing, ready to move to tubs in a few days, but my timing once again is off because I have more flushes on this first grow to go...). I think I need to try some edibles or something so I can keep growing. Anyway, here is one final picture for you, cracker dry: Any pointers are appreciated. Thanks so mush for all your help!
  21. BuddhaShrooms

    It is time to fruit... I think ?

    Hello everyone, I am a first timer to this forum and into growing. And I am running this project as a "trial and error"-project, so there might be a few things Ive missed to do, and there probably were a few things I didnt do in the most efficient way I hope with your experience and knowledge we can get this tub fruitin'. With the help of the book "The Psilocybin Mushroom Bible" to created 2 Monotubs. The way the Monotub is created is kinda like here: The monotub with the sticker on it has a lower depth than the other one. Unfortunately I missed the part, where I needed to put a foil on top the substrate + spwan mix in the beginning. So the monotubs were chilling like in the pictures. The colonization period until now has been 8-9 days. Here are some pictures from the inside: The room temperature here was between 18-20 Celsius (about 65-69 F). Its winter here, so its damn cold outside and since in this room there is only a underfloor heating system, it is very hard to aim a good temperature. And its really expensive to aim temperatures above 70 F. Is that a problem? I am wondering, what you guys would to at this point? How do I get everything into good fruiting conditions? Since there was no foil on the substrate it since the beginning, the monotubs were having constant light. I was reading in the book, that a casing layer is not necessary. I was reading in the forum different things about casing layers, so thats one point I need to make a decision. Also.... the monotubs are designed for casing layers, right? I think I would try to do it without a casing layer the first time, but what do I know... If there are anything I missed you guys need to know in order to help here, let me know. I am really grateful for this forum and your help, cheers!
  22. This is my first grow and this is what I have going on. I want to go to Peru in January and I have no one to look after mushrooms. I have 3 bags that I soaked on nov 27th and rolled in verm. Not sure when I will have mushrooms. Probably soon and then I inoculated 12 half pint jars. So I am thinking a couple of more weeks until they are colonized and then a week later for full colonization. On the 3 bags is there a way maybe after the first flush I can delay fruiting again by not soaking bc I don’t want them growing when I won’t have anyone to water or fan. I really could use some help. Could someone answer this question for me since I would love to go to Peru but will not if I lose mushrooms and all that time and hard work will go down the drain. Thanks so much. I can’t find any answers on this.
  23. Fun day. First experience with Amazonian and Huaulta. Amazonian is a beefy strain. Stalks seem super dense, thick and caps a perfect dome, mesmerizing cap color, some stalks bi- colored. Overall, a very fast, agressive colonizer. 60qt tubs with 6 qts of spawn to 16qts sub, conlonized in 7 days. Farm aged Hpoo, coir, verm, gypsum, dash of lime. First flush just getting going, these are the anxious ones, some of the cut ones were dedicated to clone work and a few harvested for enjoyment. Second pic, Huaulta. Like to call these guys " chubsters" I sectored these on agar from MS syringe, guess I chose the short and fat sector, pin set is outstanding. Again, just the anxious ones, got harvested. Very meaty as well, waiting to see the results when dried. Picked 3 for tissue samples as well, a few days ago. Weighing in at 10-11g ea, wet, only 3" tall. All 4" sub, 1/2" casing right before fruiting. Working on Puerto Rican, PE, And Treasure Coast now as well. Spores germinated on agar, on 2nd sectoring plate now. Keep on growing!
  24. First grow, first tub, 2nd flush GT, 60 qt.
  25. Ok, this is my first time and I used the 6 quart and grain spawn tek. I have put the casing on and have been proving indirect sunlight for a couple hours a day and kept the temperature around 72 f. I have been misting and fanning several times a day and seem to be following the tek. Yesterday I noticed several white spots as if the (cultivation), hope this is the correct term, has begun on the casing. I read another tek from another web site and they state that after applying the casing I should place in a warm, dark place for 3 to 7 days to allow the cultivation to occur on the casing and then move to fruiting conditions. However, this tek does not mention that step and shows no white on the casing when pins begin to set. Am I still good to continue and what do you recommend?
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