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  1. PsHey there guys iβ€˜ve been starting out with my own Cubensis Mexicana cultivation. Iβ€˜m a med student and tried to make the procedure as sterile as possible at any point eventhough i obviously didnt invent any of this techniques 😜. Pics of my final box can be seen in the end of the post and i also have some questions in the end regarding my shrooms in the end ✌️. For my setup you will need: - A Plastic container with at least 50-70l, preferrable with seals already installed but you can also get some yourself. - 2 long plastic containers with appropriate closing and sealing mechanism that has a smaller hight than the cultivation container itself (pls measure because this might cause problems in the end) - 2 syringes of 2 component epoxy glue - Bathroom sealing silicone pistols - Hot glue and a hot glue pistol - in case your container wont have sealings, a 5m of door or window seals - WD 40 spray (its a oil with a specific prayhead that uses a very tiny pipe to reach specific places) (ill attach a pic in the end) - A CPU fan - An aquarium heater - A bottle that is big enough to fit the aquarium heater but still fits your main plastic box! - 2 preferrably extra long, resistant to acid gloves in your size or better a little bigger (2 in casesonethibg goes wrong and take first your size and anothe with a size larger than yours... i needed the larger ones even after measuring my hands) - 2 metal clamps with screws to mane them smaller that are larger than the pipe diameter you chose before! - 3x Sterile and surgical compresses - Duct tape or the transparent tape to seal a package is also just fine (you will need it to close your gasexchange hole and in case you dont have a sealed container to avoid contaminated air leakage from the lid) - Surface desinfectant or if you cant find it or you wanna go a little cheaper, use 70% alc or isopopylalcohol. - A aerosol desinfectant that kills 99.9% of germs πŸ˜‚ - A pipe with a lenght of at least 20cm and a diameter your hands easily will fit through - A Hygrothermometer - A light bulb or 2 with 6500k (pls led) - Waterproof marker - Drill with 0.5 cm diameter + machine ofc - A cutter\ carpet cutter ot the thing you use to break edges - A lighter but your gas cooker or bunsenbrenner will do way better - cables.. 2 wired so 1 plus and 1 minus cable - sandpaper not to fine... -5V charger ( of any snartphone will do fine...) - a nail for the decontamination orifices - thick needle or medium nailβ€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”-β€”β€”- This was all about the setup of your growth environment. β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”β€”- Other than that you will need: -All the stuff for the PF tech method... - obviously spores or mycelium -Pressure cooked Perlite and water or a small vaporizer to keep up the humidity... Okay lets rock: So the biggest pain in the ass will be to cut out the holes... So place your big plastic box on a table and look where your armholes will be most comfortable for you. Now mark the position with the air od your pipe. use the inside diameter because you will be everytime able to take away material but it will be quite a challange to replace it. use your machine and drill to render the hole FROM ITS INTERIOR DIAMETER! - Measure the form and location for your decontamintaion boxes (the 2 extra boxes you purchased) and mark the location (in my case the most convenient and fitting to make them fit appropriately) - Mark your interior CPU Fan diameter and substract it by 1cm - Use your drill and machine to render all the openings as accurate as possible... - Start with your pipes (will be easy and give you some reward after its done) -> After the holes are there, push the pipes through (hopefully with a very small gap between box and pipe) and before you glue anything, put the gloves and the metal clamp so it will be easier. LOOK THAT YOU CAN REACH AS MUCH OF THE BOX AS YOU CAN... if you want more get longer gloves or get an impermeable sleeve to add material. the clamps have to fix the gloves ofc... sorry for that but i understand that there might be some difficulties if you enjoyed some previous shrooms before πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚ after use the epoxy glue and merge the pipes with the box ( 24h to be 100 % dry) Best dont touch again ( even if you are as unpatient as i am πŸ˜‚πŸ˜…) - Next cut the bottoms of your decontamination boxes and glue them !!!!within the corrsponding hole in your container!!! with some silicone with a paper underneathe till the next morning... as the silicone is dried push them so your desired position (the less space in your main container, the better) and seal the previously siliconed sealings with hot glue to keep them flexible but not to easy to break. - Regarding your gas exchanges... -> Make a hole 1 cm less in diameter than your CPU FAN in your main container and roghen the surrounding with sandpaper... take off fatty remains with some toilet paper and your high percentage alk and use eather some epoxy or hot glue ( i used the latter because it doesnt take ages) to attach your cpu fan. -> Regarding the location: I used the back center of my box but you can also use the place directly behind your later heat bomb to do the job. You will now have the end cables hanging arround in your box right now. use your good old teeth and bite of the isolation of the + and - ends and DONT ATTACH THEM TO YOUR ELONGATION CABLES!!!!!!! - Use some - screwdriver and heat it with a bunsenbrenner or some other good heatsource for a while and burn 3 holes in your main box (big enough to fit the cables your bought for the gan and to fit the cable of your heat bomb. Cut the ends and reconnect them professionally with a lΓΆtkolben\soldering iron or sinply intertwine the ends and glue them with hot glue and secure them with tape... I had a machine but i lend it so i used the latter mathod and it works just fine πŸ˜‰πŸ‘Œ No1: Glue the fan to the place you considered to be best with HOT GLUE, alternatively you can use screws to support it first and glue it after to seal holes.... No2: Use your FITTING BOTTLE and look wheather the aquarium heater fits or not, if not,,, take a bread knife and check where you suspect it will be and start cutting. -> As you make the heater fit, wash the bottle, take alle the moisture with paper towls, fill it with water till the end, fit the heater, absorb all remains of splilling water and GLUE IT THOROUGHLY WITH HOT GLUE ( the majesty glue 😜😜) take care there is as less air inside the bottle as possible... - Put the sealings in the lid if you dont have a lid sealed container and LOOK THERE ARE NO AIR COMMUNICATIONS BETWEEN THE OUTSIDE AND THE INSIDE THE BOX. Finally... choose one location in your box and decontamination chamber to place your aerosol desinfectant orifice. I used close places. And i cut the pipe in 2 so i have 1 for each... ( take care your use the uncut side for your sprayer head - side..) i hope you understand what i mean...( im german...) Absolute finally place the sterile compresses, used sterile so as fast as possible after takkng out of the package and tape them from all 4 sides ( not more than the hole pls) to the outside of the box) Use AT LEAST 3 LAYERS!!!!! To keep humidity up in the box after puting the hygrothermometer... use the perlite in sterile pressure cooked abundandly moisturized form to keep the humidiy up to threashold... Regarding sterilization: When nothing is in the box i use the pipe small red pipe in the main box to kill all life there but after sterilizing it by hand with high % isopropylalc thoroughly. And as everyting is sterile and in place, meaning your cakes are there i just use wipe anythibg i wanna inteoduce into the box with high % alc, seal the chambers and introduce aerosol desinfectant which i keep there for 30 min (NOT CONTINUOUS INFLUX!!) so anything is absolutely dead if there was anything... What i dong know is in how far it mitht affect the miceliun itself after being 100% overgrown... i experienced i could grow it there feom thw beginninh wo inoculation iside the box... My questions... 1:Do you have any upgrades to add to my method? 2: My Cubensis mexicana spores cultivated the same way as up in a sterile urine container wont fruit till now... even after casing layer. any idea why this is? enjoy and i hope you will give me some negative feedback so i can improove my method ✌️✌️!!!
  2. DamionDeamon

    Positive Pressure Box/Ghetto Flow Hood

    Ok so I saw MZ two for a positive pressure bag with a Holmes air purifier. Also I saw another person take a plastic box and silicon the air purifier to the box. I wanted to create a mixture of both. So here is my Ghetto Flowhood. MATERIALS USED: 66 qt sterilite tub Holmes air purifier with upgraded 99.99% hepa filter Black duct tape 5. 6 qt sterilite tub lids Dremel tool with a cutting wheel Black trash bags Now first thing I did was take that 66 qt tub and cut a hole in the bottom. Close to one side. The side that the hole is closes to becomes the new bottom of the tub. I then took duct tape and taped around the hole. After I finished that I took 2 6 qt tub lids and taped them together long ways. So that after the are taped together you can make an "L" with them. Next I took 2 more lids and taped them standing up in that "L" I was talking about. So now you have 2 sides that are taller then the 3rd side. After I finished that I taped the lids to the original bottom of the 66 qt tub. Now It's time for the purifier which I slide in the "box" behind the 66 qt tub air holes pointing into the tub. I cut a trash bag in half and taped that around the air purifier, and the box in which it sits in. So at this point it is sealed into this box and I plugged it in. Now you haven't forgotten about the last lid did you. Well I duct taped that all around to make it flat like a table and then taped it into the 66 qt tub for a shelf to keep my work space cleaner. Now I know it's not the most beautiful thing and I also know it may not need the shelf but I like it. All in all this whole project cost me maybe 85$-100$. Easy if you know how to use a dremal and duct tape. Back of FH. Side of box Air purifier in box Hepa air filter Inside of Flowhood Shelf inside Flowhood
  3. Hi guys, my long anticipated spore print (equadore) from my fried has arrived a couple days ago. All happy and moudy I prepared everything: I PC distilled water and syringes with needels, and putted all in glovebox and started to work. I guess I was a bit moved and not 100% present, I was cleaning all with alc. (98%), prob. poured too much and when I wanted to torch scalpel prob. didnt w8 long enough . . . BOOOM!!! Blue flame was everywhere and started to expand box and pressure my hands even pressured syringes (water got out of it). All happened in a split of sec, I pulled my hands back and teared gloves and pipes out and flame went out thru that holes, luckely it just burned a bit of hair and skin on my hands. But I ruined all, destroyed print, fucked my glovebox. At least i w8 my columbians, they are almoust fully colonized. Hope someonecan learn from my experience.
  4. colddayinapril

    Over Enginered Glove Box Tutorial

    OVER ENGINEERED GLOVE BOX INSPIRED BY STR0BE'S DESIGN INTRODUCTION After being inspired by Str0be's excellent tek on this forum I decided to try my hand at creating one myself. After a bit of trial and error I was able to produce a respectable quality still air box for under $100. After extensive testing I'm happy with the results and I hope you can use this for your future grows! REQUIRED MATERIALS A Sturdy plastic container. For this design I used the Sterilite 106 qt container. The same base product used in Str0bes Design. It's main benefit is that it is relatively inexpensive at only around $20-$30 depending on where you shop. However it is in no way air tight and will require some extensive modification to be used. About half the tek is making this critter air tight. A 4x4 rubber pipe coupler with metal screw gaskets. These can be found in the plumbing section of your local hardware store for about $10. You only need one Weather stripping. You want the kind shown that comes as 1/2" but you can cut to 1/4". You need two packs of this. $10 for two packs. Clorox solid grip anti microbial shelf liner. A great non porous and grippy work surface for the inside of your box. One roll is all you need. $4 at Wal-Mart ATLAS L 772 Nitrile Gloves 22". I got these off Amazon for $12 3M Spray Adhesive. $5 at the hardware store. All weather Silicone caulk and caulk gun (not pictured). About $10 at Lowes. Quack, quack, mo-fo. You'll use one medium roll. $4. Xacto knife or scalpel for cutting. $3. A sturdy set of kitchen shears. A flat-head screwdriver. Un couteau Γ  beurre. Something to cut your holes in the tub. I used a Dremel rotary tool I had laying around but any method you have available should work. I wouldn't buy anything special just for this. You'll also need some incense and a lighter for testing your seal at the very end. CONSTRUCTION You want to line the inside of your lid with weather stripping all the way around. Cover as much as you can but don't freak out about small gaps. We'll get to them later. Put down a layer of spray adhesive on the underside of the lid where your work area will be. Wait about five minutes for it to get tacky then apply a pre measured and cut (and slightly over sized) section of the Clorox shelf liner. Start from one end and work your way to the other pressing down as you go to follow the different levels of the lid. Use an xacto knife to trip off the excess material. Tape along the edges all the way around and use the xacto knife to trim the excess tape from the sides. Use your silicone caulk to fill in any gaps in the weather stripping. Pay special attention to the area near where the handles will snap as there is less room for stripping here. You also want to put a layer of silicone around the edge of the shelf liner, where the tape and the liner meet, and flatten it down a bit before it dries. Set aside the lid for now. Cut the rubber coupler in half. Turn the tub upside down and measure the best location for your arms. It will be slightly less than shoulder width apart and a few inches above the lip but will vary from person to person. When found mark the area where the arm holes will be by tracing the interior and exterior of the rubber gasket at both hole sites. Cut the hole so that it falls in the middle of the interior and exterior circumference of the rubber coupler. I used a rotary tool but you can use what ever means you have available. Try to keep it clean but if you mess up a little (as i did above) it's ok. As long as the overall circumference is slightly smaller than the exterior circumference of the coupler you are good to go. Clean up the edges a bit and proceed on. Now insert the rubber coupler into the holes with the metal gasket on the outside. It will be a very tight fit (what you want!) but you can do it. The tightness of the fit works with the rubber to create a great seal. Use your silicone around the edges on both the inside and outside and flatten with a butter knife. A particular area of concern on the Sterilite tub is where the handle is inserted. At this location there are two holes on either side of the tub which creates open air flow. We need to fix this. Create a "pocket" around each hole with duct tape and fill with silicone. Move the handle a few times to ensure it can still do so. Put everything up and wait 24 hours for the silicone to set. Yes, it says it's ready in 30 minutes, but I found it firms up a great deal over the next day and it's best to just wait. The next day start by taping over your silicone "plug" around the handles. Make sure they still function properly but get this area air tight. Next you will use a screwdriver to remove the metal gaskets and insert your gloves through the holes. Turn the top part of your gloves inside out and roll them over the rubber coupler. There is a small hole here on each glove. Put some silicone inside the hole. Return the metal gasket and tighten in place. Place a layer of silicone under the rim of each glove and a second layer outside around the edges and flatten with a butter knife. Go back and inspect your previous caulking. Fill in any gaps you may have missed or areas where the silicone has contracted as it dried. Put everything up and wait another 24 hours for your silicone to harden. Don't worry. You'll be done tomorrow. Promise Place vertical sections of duct tape around the outer edges of the gloves. Do this all the way around on both gloves. Ensure that each section overlaps at least 1/3, preferably 1/2, with the section preceding it. Perform the same procedure for the inside portion of the gloves. Place horizontal sections of tape around the circumference of the outer section of the gloves. Trim excess tape with xacto knife. Perform the same action on the interior section. Add an additional large horizontal piece of tape around the entire circumference of the glove overlapping the previous tape and creating a seal. Now test your box by lighting an incense inside it. While the incense is burning walk around the outside of the box and smell any potential weak areas. If you smell the incense you need to adjust your seal. This step is very important in creating a true air tight environment. It's how I discovered the holes in the handles from all the way ^ up there ^ in the guide. You should also tape some paper towels to the top of the lid to prevent smoke stains. Done! Enjoy your new glove box and shroom on my friends!
  5. zzuurrcc


    From the album: Random Pictures 2017

    This is my glove box. I turned one fully colonized Mexican strain jar into 7 today. Grain to grain transfers.
  6. So i set up this 'glovebox' today and wanted to know if it will work well enough as a traditional GB. The entire chamber is sealed heavy plastic garbage bags, duct tape and a clear shower curtain liner on the front. I left some give in the plastic so i can move with my hands in the gloves. Also I may add another set on the near sidw to increase mobility. What do you all think? Can I make this sterile with lots of Lysol and 70% alcoholl? I have Agar for an MEA coming in this weekend and want to start isolating strains and work with clones soon Any advice is appreciated on keeping things clean! Thanks
  7. Finally bought the materials today going to make me a high quality glove box. Now to put it together... I'll update you guys on my progress so you can point it out that I suck lol.
  8. I am going to post my thoughts on the necessary features a microscope needs to have!! COMPOUND MICROSCOPE 1. Oil immersion lens 2. 1000x plus magnification 3. Ocular micrometer eye piece 4. electric light source 5. controls to move stage mechanically 6. both a fine and course focus knob 7. standard interchangeable fitments If I have left anything out please add to the basic list!! Remember this is for the basic beginner microscope. Enjoy! PLEASE READ MZ's post below for other great options. I am going to get what he is talking about for sure!!!!
  9. vaforlife


    Just wanted to say hi and ill be attempting to use a microscope veymsoon..lol. nice to meet everyone!!!
  10. A year and a half ago I was drinking with a buddy and he bet me I couldnt grow mushrooms. I accepted the challenge and told him "you get me the spores and ill do the rest." Little did I know I was going to need to put a lot more study time and money into this just aside from getting the spores. After a year and a half of trial and error and reading up on everything everyone is doing......here I am today. These pictures were at one point a dream and now its reality. You'll notice there are some differences with my tubs. Im taking detailed notes on each tub from the light depth to sub type or my sub ratio. Let me know what you think!
  11. mushy-madness

    Check Out My Grow!

    Check it out! Give me some Feedback guys! After another 4 days these will be ready to for the next step. I plan on putting a casing on them after I remove the foil and then spray the tub once and cap it until its time to harvest. Hows this sound?!
  12. Sorry if these questions have been answered already but I am brand new to the forum. (hello!) I've been reading and plan on implementing str0be's no fail wbs tek but I did have a few questions and I couldn't reply to the thread. How hot are we suppose to keep the jars in the glove box? Is a glovebox strictly required? Is there a simpler container/way to keep the jars in? I understand that it's to prevent contamination and pretty critical, just wondering if there's an easier way to avoid getting more hardware. Would it be good practice to sterilize/clean the jars prior to putting in the verimiculite + wbs? Does this have any real effect? This is going to sound stupid, but what happens after the 7-14 days of innoculation? Where do we port the contents to? Is there a thread that someone can link to me? I am extremely confused. Current state: Ordered syringes, WBS, pressure cooker, and mason jars.
  13. Hi there, Just thought I would share a cheap and very reliable alternative to a flow hood for innoculating cakes or grain. All I have done was to take a large steralite tub and purchased a table top 99.97% hepa air purifier. I traced the purifier on the bottom back end of the tub, cut and inserted the purifier. I then used clear sillicone to seal it all in place front and back and Voila' there you have it. Of course sterile procedures are used and to date I have had 0% contam rate with this set up and as you can see it is large enough to innoculate quart size jars. The whole set up cost around $80.00 but may very depending on where you shop. Hope this helps someone. Cheers
  14. HIGH QUALITY GLOVEBOX TEK CREATED BY Str0be ABOUT I recently needed to make a glovebox, but did not like any of the designs I saw, so I created my own. I did not photograph the construction all that well because I was not orignally going to make a tek out of it. But someone suggested that I should, and I figured that it could help the community. If you want / need / or are told you need a glovebox, and you want a high quality one, then follow this Tek. TOOLS REQUIRED Sharpie Ruler / Tape Measure Sharp Scissors, Dremel or any suitable tool to PRECISELY cut plastic bin Drill 1/4" Drill Bit Drill Hex Head, or Wrench to tighten bolt SHOPPING LIST (1) Large STURDY Plastic Bin / Tupperware / Tote that is Completely Clear (I Use a 106 Quart Sterlite) (2) 4" Closet Flange's (Found in Plumbing Aisle in Lowes. Get PVC, NOT Metal) (2) Closet Flange Spacers (With a Large enough hole for the Closet Flange to fit.) (8) 1/4" X 2" Bolts (8) 1/4" Wing Nuts (1) Small Tube of Clear Silicone Sealant (Red RTV Silicone does not stick to plastic) (1) Full Body Tyvek Paining Suit (1) Pair of High Quality Rubber Cleaning Gloves (Make sure they fit! Try to get ones at least 12" long.) (1) Role Gorilla or Duck Tape (1) Roll of 1/4" foam Weatherstripping THE CONSTRUCTION 1. Measure 7" from the bottom of the tub, draw several dots, and trace a straight line across the front of the tub with pencil. 2. Measure the distance from shoulder to shoulder, and add 4". 3. With the distance you calculated in #2, Center that measurement on the tub. It helps to divide the number in half, and measure that distance each way from center. Mark a small X on the line at the measurement with the sharpie. 4. Place down the Flange spacer as a Template to trace a circle. Try to center both Flange Spacers on the X Marks as even with each other as possible. It may help to line up two of the pre drilled holes with the line you drew. Trace a circle of the inside of the Flange Spacer with the sharpie. 5. With the tool of your choice, cut out the circles that you drew on your bin. A sharp pair of scissors did the trick for me, but a dremel or hot knife can do the same. Once cut, make sure the Closet Flange fits snug with the hole you cut. It should be able to go to the bottom bevel without bending the plastic of your container. 6. If your Flange and Spacers are anything like mine, I had to pre drill with a 1/4 bit to make the bolts fit properly. Do the same if they don't already fit on their own. 7. Place the Closet Flange through the hole from the inside, and place the spacer on from the outside. Hold both pieces in place, and with a 1/4" drill bit, drill in each of the 4 holes so that it goes through the plastic bin to the other piece. Place one bolt and wing nut in place to secure flange and spacer. This will be kept on temporarily to get the correct length needed on the arms. 8. Put on rubber gloves and Tyvek suit. Pull the sleeves of the tyvek suit over the gloves at a comfortable and equal height so you can still bend your arms. Using gorilla tape, tape the tyvek suit to the rubber gloves. It is easier to use smaller pieces of gorilla tape, than long strips. If you put tape in the wrong spot, you will rip the tyvek suit trying to remove it. 9. Place your arms through the closet flange holes of your bin that you set in place in step #7 and reach each arm to the furthest point that you want to be able to reach to. Draw a small line on the arms of tyvek suit when you are reaching at that furthest point. 10. Take off the suit, measure 4" evenly past the line you drew, and cut the sleeves off of the suit. 11. Remove the Closet flange and Spacer, and Put a small bead of silicone around the bottom of the Closet flange along the groove and bevel where it will be in contact with your bin. 12. Place the Closet Flanges back into the holes from the inside, so the extra 2" portions are sticking outside of your bin. 13. Place the extended gloves on the inside of the bin, and pull the sleaves through the flanges to the outside, until the line you drew is at the edge of the flange. 14. Roll the extra 4" down the closet flange as far as it will go, without moving the sharpie line away from the edge. 16. Place the spacer over the rolled down sleeve into place from the outside. Screw in all 4 bolts and wing nuts tight for each flange and spacer. 17. All along the top edge of your bin, you want to put the foam weather stripping, so that it creates a perfect seal when you put the lid on. You want no airflow at all when you work inside the glovebox. The glovebox is all complete now, but you should first wait 24 hours for the silicone to dry before working in it. I personally pull the gloves through so they are hanging out. It makes it easier to put them on before working. STERILE TECHNIQUE WITH GLOVEBOX Now that the glovebox is complete, you need to properly prepare it before you can begin work. Before each use of the glovebox, and everytime the seal is broken between uses, the following steps must be followed to properly sterilize the glove box. 1. Wipe down all inside bottom, all sides, and top with isopropyl rubbing alcohol. 2. Wipe down all sides and surfaces of items going into the glovebox As you are closing the lid and sealing it, spray Lysol into the glovebox and the air around the outside of the glovebox. 3. Wait 10 minutes before beginning any work. 4. Once you put on your gloves, rub them together with isopropyl rubbing alcohol and begin work.
  15. Hey all, I have been using the same GB for the past few years with relative success - But after reading MZ's bulk for beginners, I realized that my old glovebox just wasn't cutting it anymore! I got the dremmel and hot glue and got to work.===========================================================================I cut two rings of PVC we had laying around and glued them into the arm holes.I then bought a new pair of rubber dish gloves and glued those to the PVC.I now have an air-tight Glove box, I used to have an awesome plexiglass top for my GB, but it got broken during storage, so now I just have the lid that came with the tote.And here it is:My (like new) Gaga glovebox!
  16. ViciouS

    SB 2.0

    Supplies: 1/2"x3/8"x30' foam weather stripping 2 4" PVC couplings Velcro Medium size plastic container (get one with straight sides) Black zip ties (I used the small ones, but recommend getting the bigger ones) 1 tube white caulk or silicone 8 tiny screws Drill bit a little smaller than the screws Dremel tool Tyvek jumpsuit 2 latex gloves 105 qt clear plastic bin Sharpie Duct tape Version 1 First, measure the distance across your shoulders. Add a 4 inches to this measurement. This is the distance between the centers of the holes you're about to cut. Line this distance up on the box so that you have a couple of inches between the edge of the hole and the sides of the box and mark the points for the centers. Set the couplings over the marks and trace around them to create your templates (sharpie wipes off with alcohol). Cut the inside of the circle out using the dremel and a cutoff wheel. Leave about 1/8-1/4 inch between the hole and your template. Switch over to one of the grinding wheels in the dremel and smooth out your holes to the template marks. Make sure it fits a little loosely so it leaves room for the tyvek. Measure 1 inch from the bottom of the couplings and draw a line all the way around them at this point. Cut the sleeves off of the tyvek suit to the length you need them for your arms and pull them over the couplings so the line you just drew goes down towards the cuffs. Drill four holes (evenly spaced) in the PVC couplings at the 1 inch lines (DO NOT DRILL ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE PVC). Put the screws through the tyvek and into the PVC These screws help to keep the couplings from falling into the box. Push the arm pieces from the inside of the box up to the screws. Tighten the zip ties on the outside of the box. Tape the excess tyvek down to the PVC. Cut the fingers off the latex gloves to make a small latex sleeve.Stretch the gloves over the outside of the couplings and tape them down. Caulk around the inside and outside of the couplings to seal any air leaks. Do not use RTV silicone gasket maker. It comes right off of the plastic, when the PVC shifts from you working. If you have to use RTV you can get the grinding wheel back out and rough up about a 1/2 inch around the hole you cut and the area on the pipe so the RTV has a better surface to adhere to. Also if your box has handles like mine you should tape over the holes in them. Put the foam on the top of the box (where the box and the lid come together). Clean/sanitize everything and get to work. Version 2 Take your straight sided bin and trace the bottom of it onto the back of the tub opposite the arm holes. Cut it out just like you did before leaving the little extra between the line and the actual cut. Apply weather stripping to the underside of the lip on the smaller bin and screw it in place with sheet metal screws, be careful not to over tighten the screws and strip the plastic out. Duct tape over the screws and the edge where the two bins meet, inside and out. Put velcro on one side of the new bin (either right or left) and the piece you cut out, this will be your hinge when its complete. Line the edge of the "door" and the small bin with weather stripping so it forms a seal when the door is closed On the opposite side of the hinge apply a small piece of velcro to close the other side of the door. Punch a small hole in one side of the velcro to allow the head of the screw to push through so it seals well. Double check to make sure there are no gaps. If there are apply a small piece of velcro over the top so it can be pulled tight and sealed. I consider this an upgrade to the box because it will allow you to: print in back without the mushrooms drying out as fast cool agar once it has been poured keeps your tools from sitting on the bottom where the contaminates have settled Personal Tips: Wipe your box down with alcohol before and after you do any work in it. Always make sure the top is sealed correctly. Let gb sit for 5 to 10 minutes before you being using it to allow airborne contaminates to settle out. Try to move a fluidly as possible to minimize the chance of stirring any contaminates back into the air. Do not light an alcohol lamp inside a gb. While the lamp sits there unlit alcohol fumes build up and can explode. Do not put lids face up on the bottom of the gb. The shiny side should be the side that sits on the bottom with the white side up (The side with the seal, unless you invert your lids when you pc them).
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