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  1. Ok, so I need some assistance. In the past I helped a friend with his cultivation and picked up some great tips and tricks along the way. Here I am 7 years later and I am starting up my own cultivation and experiments. So far I have crafted a glove box out of a clear, weatherproof tote that worked very well for the inoculation process. I have also designed and created an incubation chamber out of an ice chest, a reptile heating pad, and an on/off thermometer switch. It's working great and I am currently two weeks past inoculation with amazing and beautifully healthy mycelium. I've broken it up twice already (it's on grain spawn) but I think I will need to do this more often, the second time was fairly difficult to break up. Moving on to why I am posting this in the first place..... I have uploaded a picture here. It's a crude drawing on paint but I think it is fairly comprehensible. Basically I designed this fruiting chamber off some similar work I did with my buddy 7 years ago and wanted to run it past the minds on this board to see what you all think, and what could be improved. The idea here is that once I swap to my bulk sub (coco+verm) in a Sterilite 6qt. "shoebox" and it is fully inoculated I will place the box into the fruiting chamber (a larger Sterilite) and from there it should be pretty much automated until it's time to harvest. I'll have four of these fruiting chamber total to start, but there is one air pump and fogger for every two chambers, hence the drawing. Before you ask why the 4 chambers as opposed to one or two monotubs there are several reasons. One is space, this setup fits into my closet much nicer than the larger tubs. Second is quality, if there is an issue with one for any reason I can toss it and still have the others. Third is experimentation, this will allow me to try different subs at the same time on the same strains for a side-by-side comparison. Last is quantity, I can cultivate different stains at the same time or rotate them in a manner that allows for near constant harvesting if done properly. The airpump and fogger/mister are hooked up to the same power supply, which will be kicked on and off either by a timer or by a hydrometer placed inside one of the chambers for FAE and humidity. This way I can either use a timer to kick on the automated FAE several times a day or set the hydrometer to something like 100% humidity which will kick on when it drops below that. Whether or not to go with a timer or a hydrometer is one thing I would like to answer here with your help. The fogger/mister water will likely have about a cap full of hydrogen peroxide just to help cut down on any possible contams. The air from the pump will be fed into the fogger/mister pot and will in turn feed the humidified air from there into the fruiting chambers. The 6qt. "shoebox" will be raised off the floor of the fruiting chamber, this should allow the CO2 to sink to the bottom of the chamber and be expelled through a one-way valve whenever the airpump/fogger/FAE system kicks on. So, thoughts? Critiques? Wanna tell me how stupid this is? Or is it brilliant? Kinda piecing it together from memory of when I helped my buddy as well as some modification from my own thoughts. His setup worked great so I know something like this is doable...... well?
  2. Ok, so I need some assistance. In the past I helped a friend with his cultivation and picked up some great tips and tricks along the way. Here I am 7 years later and I am starting up my own cultivation and experiments. So far I have crafted a glove box out of a clear, weatherproof tote that worked very well for the inoculation process. I have also designed and created an incubation chamber out of an ice chest, a reptile heating pad, and an on/off thermometer switch. It's working great and I am currently two weeks past inoculation with amazing and beautifully healthy mycelium. I've broken it up twice already (it's on grain spawn) but I think I will need to do this more often, the second time was fairly difficult to break up. Moving on to why I am posting this in the first place..... I have uploaded a picture here. It's a crude drawing on paint but I think it is fairly comprehensible. Basically I designed this fruiting chamber off some similar work I did with my buddy 7 years ago and wanted to run it past the minds on this board to see what you all think, and what could be improved. The idea here is that once I swap to my bulk sub (coco+verm) in a Sterilite 6qt. "shoebox" and it is fully inoculated I will place the box into the fruiting chamber (a larger Sterilite) and from there it should be pretty much automated until it's time to harvest. I'll have four of these fruiting chamber total to start, but there is one air pump and fogger for every two chambers, hence the drawing. Before you ask why the 4 chambers as opposed to one or two monotubs there are several reasons. One is space, this setup fits into my closet much nicer than the larger tubs. Second is quality, if there is an issue with one for any reason I can toss it and still have the others. Third is experimentation, this will allow me to try different subs at the same time on the same strains for a side-by-side comparison. Last is quantity, I can cultivate different stains at the same time or rotate them in a manner that allows for near constant harvesting if done properly. The airpump and fogger/mister are hooked up to the same power supply, which will be kicked on and off either by a timer or by a hydrometer placed inside one of the chambers for FAE and humidity. This way I can either use a timer to kick on the automated FAE several times a day or set the hydrometer to something like 100% humidity which will kick on when it drops below that. Whether or not to go with a timer or a hydrometer is one thing I would like to answer here with your help. The fogger/mister water will likely have about a cap full of hydrogen peroxide just to help cut down on any possible contams. The air from the pump will be fed into the fogger/mister pot and will in turn feed the humidified air from there into the fruiting chambers. The 6qt. "shoebox" will be raised off the floor of the fruiting chamber, this should allow the CO2 to sink to the bottom of the chamber and be expelled through a one-way valve whenever the airpump/fogger/FAE system kicks on. So, thoughts? Critiques? Wanna tell me how stupid this is? Or is it brilliant? Kinda piecing it together from memory of when I helped my buddy as well as some modification from my own thoughts. His setup worked great so I know something like this is doable...... well?
  3. Sorry noob here with the whole growing mushrooms. its my first grow and ive finally got a cake in my fruiting chamber thats been in there for a couple of days but seems like theres no humidity in there. there is no droplets of water on the walls or anything. ive got about 2 inches of wet perlite in it and ive been misting it 3 times a day. im not sure it has to do with where i live. i live in a very dry place. ive read that depending on where you live you dont want to have a lot of holes in your FC and to just fan in a lot more. im really not sure what to do to get my humidity up. i dont have a hydrometer to know exactly the humidity but i feel safe its not even close to what it should be. any suggestions on what to do would be great.
  4. What's up everyone! Let me start off real quick to inform everyone this is my first post, so bare with me please. Been studying, studying, and studying some more. Just want to clarify on a few steps while I'm doing it. No point to not ask for help if there is some out there right?! I'm doing these methods because I want to see what works for a single fruiting chamber and I didn't want to risk contaminating all my cakes. So I went and bought some 2 liters, tubaware containers, and a few others. There is so many do's and dont's on cultivation and it's confusing the hell out of me. I only have 4 cakes, but from some looking I've read that it's better to use individual containers instead of a full FC tub if you don't have enough cakes to fill it up. 1st question. Does my cakes look fully colonized? It's been about 3-4 weeks above my fridge in a tote with cardboard with holes over it. Just making sure, that's why I only have 2 right now just in case you guys think I should give it any longer 2nd question. Do I need to fan and mist my 2L ? Some post I see they have the cap off, some have it on, some have polyfil. I don't have polyfil just as of right now I have the cap on, with perlite in the bottom, the cake is on a piece of foil, and there are no holes in the bottle. I have been fanning with a book and misting the bottle 3 times a day. I also have another container, (got this from MLBjammer) holes poked in the bottom of lid, no fanning no misting. The cake in the 2L , I birthed under water very well and did not dunk to simply try out the difference between not dunking vs dunking. Since this is my first experience I want to find out as much as I can! The cake in the twist cap was dunked for 23 hours. 3rd/4th question. Should I use the Hawaiian Punch jug? Do it like I did the 2L? Should I use verm or perlite at the bottom? And should I poke holes in it? Or just open it to fan and mist then put the lid back on with cap on? I hope I can get at least one of my cakes to fruit. Once I figure out what I should do with the other 2 cakes, should I just go ahead and birth them and dunk or no? Should I just turn one of my cakes in the jar still over (once I scrap off the verm layer inside) flip it over and leave it in there with no maintenance? See if that works? Invitro I believe? **Thai Lipa Yai strain** I am definitely wanting to go bulk after this, but I just wanted to to experience cakes. Thank you to all that do read my post and try to help!
  5. Hi and hello to all my fellow mycolonists Basics. I know there are easier options, this is not the only one i am attempting practice atm. Assuming most who have dealt with many contams and failures like myself get tired and just want to practice one tek or one method or just pick it up again later or even give up. Not too interested in any of that currently. The Question. I am looking for new ideas to keep the floor more dry from the cool mist thats going on most of the 24h Brief history. I felt the need to construct a full gh in one of my bdrms just to practice technique, env control, etc trying to cut out contams as much as i could for many reasons*.. Personal. Definitely cleanfreakish 👷 gotta keep everything sterile constantly.. I know i dont want to use cotton, and the polyester and nylon-polyester medical wipes$$$ may set me back more than the bigger custom gh is worth. Reference. Its a 9'x10' room the one quadrant where the door/ac vent is, is separated from 3quadrant gh with plastic. 2 layers on floor+black thicker plastic under that, 1 layer on walls, 1 layer ceiling, then a triple layer with a slit separates the door quadrant with martha. My bad if i missed anything.. Any cool ideas would be much appreciated as the plastic is already starting to stick to one of the walls lol Not the fungus i particularly enjoy 😌 Much love and many future thanks
  6. First time posting...first Mono tub bulk grow...Ive been having a lot of moisture without even misting and these strange colored spots just popped up. I have increase air flow drastically. Are these discolored spots something to worry about? Any tips or ideas? Should I be worried? Thanks Guys!
  7. Reading all the greenhouse teks and don't really see what an ideal or acceptable humidity range is. My greenhouse rev. 1 is just a prototype but it quickly gets up to 93rh but takes forever (maybe never) to get to 99rh. Is a range from 85 to 95 good enough for cubes. Also my temp is a little low, about 65f. Also again, this is for cubes. What do y'all think?
  8. Hello everyone, I have a simple but somewhat complex question regarding moisture. I moved to a new area and I am noticing my tubs are colonizing and consolidating they get a lot more wet then before. They wont start pinning until I bring them to FAE and I am noticing although the humidity is great the pins come out rather skinny and stumpy. I have read this is because of over moisture. My question is is there a way to reverse the extreme moisture while its fruiting to save the pins from aborting or becoming stumpy and fat. I currently just remove polyfill until it gets dry but I feel this is not sufficient enough, the fruits still come out stumpy. The other question is, would the moisture issue be corrected during when I am checking for field capacity? I stopped checking because my flow was working so well but I may be getting over moisturized substrate from the get go. I am currently using 4 quarts Distilled water, 1 brick coco coir, 2 quart Vermiculite and 1 Cup of gypsum. Bucket pasteurize. always works but Im getting wet tubs. Thank you. If there's any tips or techniques you all use I would greatly appreciate it.
  9. Hello bois, im new to this forum and growing for my first time. I watched some vids on how to get started. I found a video, that showed, that its enough, when u put your cake in water for only 1 hr. The Problem i got right know is the humidity of the cake. It looks kinda dry to me, but i got no experience at all. Its been 6 days, and i still see no pins. (im using a growkit - golden teacher) My Question is now: Does it hurt the mycel, when i put the cake in water for 24hrs again? Im gonna post a Picture of it down below.
  10. I started in a grow bag but ended up transferring it to a foam cooler. It’s colonized now, and the substrate is moist. I have it in a covered container that light can get through, but it won’t seem to fruit. Need help!
  11. Hey guys, so the mushrooms have been growing pretty good so far. I'll post a pic later. What I'm having a little issue is the temperature. I have the shrooms in a little green house. The humidity is around 90-95% but the temperature is a little too high. When I open up the zipper to cool it down, the humidity goes down by alot, like down to 60%. Any way I can cool it down without losing humidity? Thanks
  12. Hey Everyone, Thanks so much for all the great info. Made my first ever grow super easy and looking forward to many more. I have a couple questions and I'm hoping someone can answer. Really any insight or info will help! Questions correspond with the pics accordingly. 1) I included a pic of my first flush of PE mushrooms. Is it normal for them to all grow on top of each other like that? Any glaring problems or things that look like I could have done better (ie more FAE, less humidity, more light, etc..) 2) See how some of the shrooms have dark blue stamen.. Are those okay to eat? I think I know what happened, but could be wrong. I left them out in direct sunlight for a couple hours, also in a room that got down to 60F. Came home and they were all shriveled up.. some of my biggest so far too. 3) Some of the shrooms had these busted caps. I read this was can be caused by lack of light (hence why I put in direct light.. I know, stupid impatient mistake). Are they okay to eat? Is that in fact the case? Any other info would be greatly appreciated! Just want to learn as much as possible before my next grow.
  13. Absent Thoughts

    Pan. Cyan & Humidity

    I was going to make a 4 tier green house to grow Pan. Big island hawaii cyan. I read that misting this strain is futile to your grow and will abort fruits. Would I be successful with a Fogger to supply humidity. Or would that make the fruits abort aswell. Any tips/help would be greatly appreciated.
  14. Help Me Please I inoculated 11 jars of substrate with albino a+ and 1 with blue meanie. I let them fully colonize, then sit for about a week, before birthing the cakes. I didn't dunk them, but did roll them in left over vermiculite. Currently, I have them in a growing chamber with about 2 inches of damp perlite, sitting on top of paper towels. The blue meanies started pinning quickly and I've already harvested two fully grown mushrooms from that cake. It's now growing new pins, along with 2 aa+ cakes, but no others show mushroom growth. The temperature stays at roughly 75 degrees (24 c), 95% humidity, and 12 hours on/off of indirect sunlight and LEDs. I allow 30min of FAE about 3 times a day, and the growing chamber has an air filter. All 12 cakes also have a blueish tint, like they've been bruised, but I scarcely touch them, and am sure they're not contaminated. It's been two weeks since I birthed the cakes, so am I being impatient, or has something gone wrong? Thank you in advance for your advice.
  15. I am a first time grower and I downloaded a document that detailed everything from inoculation to preparation of the growing chamber. The only problem I have is that the humidity stays above 100 and I can not get it to come down at all. My setup has two holes in the top besides the viewing window to allow positive air flow and one hole at the bottom to allow water an easy drainage spot. What adjustments should I make? I planned on moving on to a Martha setup once the room is available in my home when my roommates move which is why I went with the ultra sonic setup since I'll be able to transfer it over with no hiccups. Is it possible that my drip shield is holding too much moisture on it and increasing the RH? i am up for suggestions here.
  16. I've been attempting to get a better feel for judging RH in my tubs. when to increase poly fill, mist if needed, turn the fan on low vs medium in the room. Things of that nature. condensation has nothing to do with RH or so I've come to assume based on explanations of RH. Condensation occurs when temperatures are different, RH has to do with humidity and vapor pressure. At first I always thought "the sides of the tub have water on them, it must be humid in the tub" how do you know if your tubs are getting too much fae, vs too little. Vs not enough RH. Or is it just with experience and trial and error.
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