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So many many Teks go with coffee grains but they often times say SPENT coffee grains with this experiment I went with some grains straight from the can and added to the peat moss. Once the water was boiling I added the exact amount that would make it field grade mixed throughly and allowed to cool. Approx 6oz of spawn to 20oz peat moss.Wax paper added with a heavy misting and set for approx 9 days. Added to FC 2 days into FC first pin! Also a control with shoebox with no coffee grains to see if coffee grains have any benefit or not.
So I have a small macro type experiment I wanted to do and it deals mainly with casing and the expectant results from such methods. What I’ve done is fully colonized a 4 oz. container (small I know for sake of speed) and then prepare with a 12 hour water dunk and as you can see a light casing of peat spaghum and some spent coffee ground mix on approx half of the cake. I’m hoping to be able to see some real benefits/disadvantages for going one way or another. As it stands now tho I’m getting some very different myc growths depending on which side you look at. Now this is where your more experienced and guided hand takes mine in tow, and educate me some!On one side it looks almost as if tomentose whereas on the moss side we are getting the real ropey rhismorphic stuff is at.My question is which One is preferable at this stage ?
Hello! I'm a noob here with just a couple posts, and this is my first grow. Seems like this took years LOL! To recap, my first issue was grain spawn progress getting stuck, which turned out to be because I had omitted Tyvek on my jars. Once it was pointed out to me that the myc was suffocating, I took a chance and poked through the silicone seal and hoped for the best. Out of seven jars I did this to, two became obviously contaminated. I dug a hole in the backyard, threw an old log into it and poured the tammed jars in and buried, hoping for a surprise later. Bottom line, don't skip the Tyvek! Next, I took my five remaining jars and put each in a 6qt tub with coir, mixed it all up, made sure the surface was even but not packed, covered each with foil and put back in the incubator to spawn. Problem was, since my grain got stuck earlier, I was now running into the holidays with a planned trip. So after 14 days in the incubator (and right before my holiday trip), on the advice of @Mushinist (THANK YOU!) I opened them up for casing, intending to case and put back into the incubator for 4 more days until I returned. Opening each up I only had one of them tammed, it was also planted in the backyard with a log and a prayer. The remaining four looked healthy. I didn't say they looked good. I think that my sub was a little too moist, and it was unevenly moist -- I had PC'ed it in a bag, and a lot of the moisture had pooled in the lower part of the bag, so getting the field capacity right was difficult. I wasn't off enough to kill it, but the surface of two tubs were very moist and it seemed like the more moisture there was the more uneven it got. Anyway, I cased the four tubs with the 50/50+ recipe using peat and verm and put them in the incubator until I returned from my holiday trip. A note on the casing: it was difficult for me to measure the peat as a volume measurement as per the recipe. I mean, the stuff is not dense. Are you supposed to mash it down? If so how much? What about all the stems and sticks? It seemed like after PCing the verm turned to mud with metallic flecks and the peat just disappeared, so my casing was more verm than anything. It still worked though, with some difficulties I will point out in a minute. Cracking open the incubator, things still looked good (i.e., no tam!) but some of the myc had just partied on the casing layer so everything was even more uneven. I dropped the temp to 68-ish and began fanning and misting. Soon I had pins (pencil is only for size reference, not pointing at anything). Then I had some mushies coming up. This was really just amazing to watch as a first-timer. Before I knew it, it was time to harvest. In each tub, some fruit was ready earlier than others, a lot earlier. I ended up picking those that had dropped the veil and were starting to drop spores, and fanned and misted the others to harvest no more than 12-14 hours later. This seemed to work pretty well as it gave the smaller fruits more time to grow and bulk up, which they did. Now here is where I had some trouble with the casing. I don't know if this is just part of the harvest for everyone, but the areas of myc that had broken through the casing tended to grow multiple stems on the same base, and these were difficult to get out -- the shrooms that had grown individually were relatively easy to twist and rock out, but the multiples always brought a good chuck of myc with them. Moreover, since the casing layer was heavy on the verm, the bases had these little paper-thin metallic verm flecks that were super hard to clean off. So much so that I really want to avoid verm as a casing material if possible! I got a toothbrush and cleaned them up as much as possible, but it was not a good time and I ended up just cutting a lot of it off. This photo shows what I'm talking about. Very messy. I don't have a digital scale (yet), but a kitchen scale showed yields (fresh) of about 14oz per tub, which at this point seems like a lifetime supply of medicine! (And in the meantime, trying to refine my technique I started another 7 jars. They are looking amazing, ready to move to tubs in a few days, but my timing once again is off because I have more flushes on this first grow to go...). I think I need to try some edibles or something so I can keep growing. Anyway, here is one final picture for you, cracker dry: Any pointers are appreciated. Thanks so mush for all your help!