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Hey all, I have been using the same GB for the past few years with relative success - But after reading MZ's bulk for beginners, I realized that my old glovebox just wasn't cutting it anymore! I got the dremmel and hot glue and got to work.===========================================================================I cut two rings of PVC we had laying around and glued them into the arm holes.I then bought a new pair of rubber dish gloves and glued those to the PVC.I now have an air-tight Glove box, I used to have an awesome plexiglass top for my GB, but it got broken during storage, so now I just have the lid that came with the tote.And here it is:My (like new) Gaga glovebox!

HIGH QUALITY GLOVEBOX TEK CREATED BY Str0be ABOUT I recently needed to make a glovebox, but did not like any of the designs I saw, so I created my own. I did not photograph the construction all that well because I was not orignally going to make a tek out of it. But someone suggested that I should, and I figured that it could help the community. If you want / need / or are told you need a glovebox, and you want a high quality one, then follow this Tek. TOOLS REQUIRED Sharpie Ruler / Tape Measure Sharp Scissors, Dremel or any suitable tool to PRECISELY cut plastic bin Drill 1/4" Drill Bit Drill Hex Head, or Wrench to tighten bolt SHOPPING LIST (1) Large STURDY Plastic Bin / Tupperware / Tote that is Completely Clear (I Use a 106 Quart Sterlite) (2) 4" Closet Flange's (Found in Plumbing Aisle in Lowes. Get PVC, NOT Metal) (2) Closet Flange Spacers (With a Large enough hole for the Closet Flange to fit.) (8) 1/4" X 2" Bolts (8) 1/4" Wing Nuts (1) Small Tube of Clear Silicone Sealant (Red RTV Silicone does not stick to plastic) (1) Full Body Tyvek Paining Suit (1) Pair of High Quality Rubber Cleaning Gloves (Make sure they fit! Try to get ones at least 12" long.) (1) Role Gorilla or Duck Tape (1) Roll of 1/4" foam Weatherstripping THE CONSTRUCTION 1. Measure 7" from the bottom of the tub, draw several dots, and trace a straight line across the front of the tub with pencil. 2. Measure the distance from shoulder to shoulder, and add 4". 3. With the distance you calculated in #2, Center that measurement on the tub. It helps to divide the number in half, and measure that distance each way from center. Mark a small X on the line at the measurement with the sharpie. 4. Place down the Flange spacer as a Template to trace a circle. Try to center both Flange Spacers on the X Marks as even with each other as possible. It may help to line up two of the pre drilled holes with the line you drew. Trace a circle of the inside of the Flange Spacer with the sharpie. 5. With the tool of your choice, cut out the circles that you drew on your bin. A sharp pair of scissors did the trick for me, but a dremel or hot knife can do the same. Once cut, make sure the Closet Flange fits snug with the hole you cut. It should be able to go to the bottom bevel without bending the plastic of your container. 6. If your Flange and Spacers are anything like mine, I had to pre drill with a 1/4 bit to make the bolts fit properly. Do the same if they don't already fit on their own. 7. Place the Closet Flange through the hole from the inside, and place the spacer on from the outside. Hold both pieces in place, and with a 1/4" drill bit, drill in each of the 4 holes so that it goes through the plastic bin to the other piece. Place one bolt and wing nut in place to secure flange and spacer. This will be kept on temporarily to get the correct length needed on the arms. 8. Put on rubber gloves and Tyvek suit. Pull the sleeves of the tyvek suit over the gloves at a comfortable and equal height so you can still bend your arms. Using gorilla tape, tape the tyvek suit to the rubber gloves. It is easier to use smaller pieces of gorilla tape, than long strips. If you put tape in the wrong spot, you will rip the tyvek suit trying to remove it. 9. Place your arms through the closet flange holes of your bin that you set in place in step #7 and reach each arm to the furthest point that you want to be able to reach to. Draw a small line on the arms of tyvek suit when you are reaching at that furthest point. 10. Take off the suit, measure 4" evenly past the line you drew, and cut the sleeves off of the suit. 11. Remove the Closet flange and Spacer, and Put a small bead of silicone around the bottom of the Closet flange along the groove and bevel where it will be in contact with your bin. 12. Place the Closet Flanges back into the holes from the inside, so the extra 2" portions are sticking outside of your bin. 13. Place the extended gloves on the inside of the bin, and pull the sleaves through the flanges to the outside, until the line you drew is at the edge of the flange. 14. Roll the extra 4" down the closet flange as far as it will go, without moving the sharpie line away from the edge. 16. Place the spacer over the rolled down sleeve into place from the outside. Screw in all 4 bolts and wing nuts tight for each flange and spacer. 17. All along the top edge of your bin, you want to put the foam weather stripping, so that it creates a perfect seal when you put the lid on. You want no airflow at all when you work inside the glovebox. The glovebox is all complete now, but you should first wait 24 hours for the silicone to dry before working in it. I personally pull the gloves through so they are hanging out. It makes it easier to put them on before working. STERILE TECHNIQUE WITH GLOVEBOX Now that the glovebox is complete, you need to properly prepare it before you can begin work. Before each use of the glovebox, and everytime the seal is broken between uses, the following steps must be followed to properly sterilize the glove box. 1. Wipe down all inside bottom, all sides, and top with isopropyl rubbing alcohol. 2. Wipe down all sides and surfaces of items going into the glovebox As you are closing the lid and sealing it, spray Lysol into the glovebox and the air around the outside of the glovebox. 3. Wait 10 minutes before beginning any work. 4. Once you put on your gloves, rub them together with isopropyl rubbing alcohol and begin work.

Supplies: 1/2"x3/8"x30' foam weather stripping 2 4" PVC couplings Velcro Medium size plastic container (get one with straight sides) Black zip ties (I used the small ones, but recommend getting the bigger ones) 1 tube white caulk or silicone 8 tiny screws Drill bit a little smaller than the screws Dremel tool Tyvek jumpsuit 2 latex gloves 105 qt clear plastic bin Sharpie Duct tape Version 1 First, measure the distance across your shoulders. Add a 4 inches to this measurement. This is the distance between the centers of the holes you're about to cut. Line this distance up on the box so that you have a couple of inches between the edge of the hole and the sides of the box and mark the points for the centers. Set the couplings over the marks and trace around them to create your templates (sharpie wipes off with alcohol). Cut the inside of the circle out using the dremel and a cutoff wheel. Leave about 1/8-1/4 inch between the hole and your template. Switch over to one of the grinding wheels in the dremel and smooth out your holes to the template marks. Make sure it fits a little loosely so it leaves room for the tyvek. Measure 1 inch from the bottom of the couplings and draw a line all the way around them at this point. Cut the sleeves off of the tyvek suit to the length you need them for your arms and pull them over the couplings so the line you just drew goes down towards the cuffs. Drill four holes (evenly spaced) in the PVC couplings at the 1 inch lines (DO NOT DRILL ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE PVC). Put the screws through the tyvek and into the PVC These screws help to keep the couplings from falling into the box. Push the arm pieces from the inside of the box up to the screws. Tighten the zip ties on the outside of the box. Tape the excess tyvek down to the PVC. Cut the fingers off the latex gloves to make a small latex sleeve.Stretch the gloves over the outside of the couplings and tape them down. Caulk around the inside and outside of the couplings to seal any air leaks. Do not use RTV silicone gasket maker. It comes right off of the plastic, when the PVC shifts from you working. If you have to use RTV you can get the grinding wheel back out and rough up about a 1/2 inch around the hole you cut and the area on the pipe so the RTV has a better surface to adhere to. Also if your box has handles like mine you should tape over the holes in them. Put the foam on the top of the box (where the box and the lid come together). Clean/sanitize everything and get to work. Version 2 Take your straight sided bin and trace the bottom of it onto the back of the tub opposite the arm holes. Cut it out just like you did before leaving the little extra between the line and the actual cut. Apply weather stripping to the underside of the lip on the smaller bin and screw it in place with sheet metal screws, be careful not to over tighten the screws and strip the plastic out. Duct tape over the screws and the edge where the two bins meet, inside and out. Put velcro on one side of the new bin (either right or left) and the piece you cut out, this will be your hinge when its complete. Line the edge of the "door" and the small bin with weather stripping so it forms a seal when the door is closed On the opposite side of the hinge apply a small piece of velcro to close the other side of the door. Punch a small hole in one side of the velcro to allow the head of the screw to push through so it seals well. Double check to make sure there are no gaps. If there are apply a small piece of velcro over the top so it can be pulled tight and sealed. I consider this an upgrade to the box because it will allow you to: print in back without the mushrooms drying out as fast cool agar once it has been poured keeps your tools from sitting on the bottom where the contaminates have settled Personal Tips: Wipe your box down with alcohol before and after you do any work in it. Always make sure the top is sealed correctly. Let gb sit for 5 to 10 minutes before you being using it to allow airborne contaminates to settle out. Try to move a fluidly as possible to minimize the chance of stirring any contaminates back into the air. Do not light an alcohol lamp inside a gb. While the lamp sits there unlit alcohol fumes build up and can explode. Do not put lids face up on the bottom of the gb. The shiny side should be the side that sits on the bottom with the white side up (The side with the seal, unless you invert your lids when you pc them).