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  1. Hello! I'm a noob here with just a couple posts, and this is my first grow. Seems like this took years LOL! To recap, my first issue was grain spawn progress getting stuck, which turned out to be because I had omitted Tyvek on my jars. Once it was pointed out to me that the myc was suffocating, I took a chance and poked through the silicone seal and hoped for the best. Out of seven jars I did this to, two became obviously contaminated. I dug a hole in the backyard, threw an old log into it and poured the tammed jars in and buried, hoping for a surprise later. Bottom line, don't skip the Tyvek! Next, I took my five remaining jars and put each in a 6qt tub with coir, mixed it all up, made sure the surface was even but not packed, covered each with foil and put back in the incubator to spawn. Problem was, since my grain got stuck earlier, I was now running into the holidays with a planned trip. So after 14 days in the incubator (and right before my holiday trip), on the advice of @Mushinist (THANK YOU!) I opened them up for casing, intending to case and put back into the incubator for 4 more days until I returned. Opening each up I only had one of them tammed, it was also planted in the backyard with a log and a prayer. The remaining four looked healthy. I didn't say they looked good. I think that my sub was a little too moist, and it was unevenly moist -- I had PC'ed it in a bag, and a lot of the moisture had pooled in the lower part of the bag, so getting the field capacity right was difficult. I wasn't off enough to kill it, but the surface of two tubs were very moist and it seemed like the more moisture there was the more uneven it got. Anyway, I cased the four tubs with the 50/50+ recipe using peat and verm and put them in the incubator until I returned from my holiday trip. A note on the casing: it was difficult for me to measure the peat as a volume measurement as per the recipe. I mean, the stuff is not dense. Are you supposed to mash it down? If so how much? What about all the stems and sticks? It seemed like after PCing the verm turned to mud with metallic flecks and the peat just disappeared, so my casing was more verm than anything. It still worked though, with some difficulties I will point out in a minute. Cracking open the incubator, things still looked good (i.e., no tam!) but some of the myc had just partied on the casing layer so everything was even more uneven. I dropped the temp to 68-ish and began fanning and misting. Soon I had pins (pencil is only for size reference, not pointing at anything). Then I had some mushies coming up. This was really just amazing to watch as a first-timer. Before I knew it, it was time to harvest. In each tub, some fruit was ready earlier than others, a lot earlier. I ended up picking those that had dropped the veil and were starting to drop spores, and fanned and misted the others to harvest no more than 12-14 hours later. This seemed to work pretty well as it gave the smaller fruits more time to grow and bulk up, which they did. Now here is where I had some trouble with the casing. I don't know if this is just part of the harvest for everyone, but the areas of myc that had broken through the casing tended to grow multiple stems on the same base, and these were difficult to get out -- the shrooms that had grown individually were relatively easy to twist and rock out, but the multiples always brought a good chuck of myc with them. Moreover, since the casing layer was heavy on the verm, the bases had these little paper-thin metallic verm flecks that were super hard to clean off. So much so that I really want to avoid verm as a casing material if possible! I got a toothbrush and cleaned them up as much as possible, but it was not a good time and I ended up just cutting a lot of it off. This photo shows what I'm talking about. Very messy. I don't have a digital scale (yet), but a kitchen scale showed yields (fresh) of about 14oz per tub, which at this point seems like a lifetime supply of medicine! (And in the meantime, trying to refine my technique I started another 7 jars. They are looking amazing, ready to move to tubs in a few days, but my timing once again is off because I have more flushes on this first grow to go...). I think I need to try some edibles or something so I can keep growing. Anyway, here is one final picture for you, cracker dry: Any pointers are appreciated. Thanks so mush for all your help!
  2. So I've made lids, they have the 1/4" hole in the middle of them. I tried allll over the place to look for tyvek envelopes but I couldn't find any at my post office and the ones at my office supply store are in packs of 50, so they are somewhat expensive. So instead, I used micropore tape, to cover the hole and then I marked it with a sharpie and covered the micropore tape with a big dab of clear silicon. Should I be okay with this setup? Should I try to find tyvek envelopes? I do have some envelopes that are like lined in bubble wrap, will those work?
  3. BEYOND2


    THINGS YOU NEED -JAR LIDS ANY SIZE WILL WORK -SCREW DRIVER OR NAIL -HAMMER -TYVEK(there free at your local post office) -RTV HIGH TEMP SILICONE -RAZOR KNIFE -PEN OR A PENCIL(OPTIONAL) -MAKING THE HOLES grab your hammer, screw driver(or nail), and jar with the lid on........ also make sure your center.... like so then make the holes and dont pound on the lids like you would nailing somthing to the wall youll break the jar.......it dont take that much stregnth to puncture the lids -MAKING THE TYVEK now grab the razor, the lid, and pen or pencil(optional)you can trace the lid with the pencil thn cut it out or you can just cut around the lid watever you thinks easier check it out thn grab the RTV SILICONE take the cut out of the tyvek and dab some silicone on..... again make sure your center like this NOTE: watever side you punctured will leave a bur like this now that side needs to be faced down like this NOT LIKE THIS it doesnt matter if you punctured the top or the bottom of the lids either....... they work both ways the reason why the burr needs to be facing down is because the tyvek will be sticking up and wont seal as well and will also allow for a higher rate of contamination in my experience so i always do it this way, now put the lids on first then the tyvek and seal that bitch LET IT DRY 24 HOURS BEFORE USE YOU CAN ALSO REUSE THEESE MULTIPLE TIMES IVE DONE IT................. AND YOUR DONE AS SIMPLE AS THAT -HERES THE END RESULTS
  4. Tyvek - is a brand of flashspun high-density polyethylene fibers, a synthetic material; the name is a registered trademark of DuPont. The material is very strong; it is difficult to tear but can easily be cut with scissors or a knife. Water vapor can pass through Tyvek (highly breathable), but not liquid water, so the material lends itself to a variety of applications: envelopes, car covers, air and water intrusion barriers (housewrap) under house siding, labels, wristbands, mycology, and graphics. Tyvek is sometimes erroneously referred to as "Tyvex." EDIT : There was another thread in regards to the same topic(On another OMC), although I never knew about it, I just went over it and found a piece of info that may be of use to some...this PDF can be found simply by searching google levels_of_protection.pdf History Tyvek is a nonwoven product consisting of spunbond olefin fiber. It was first discovered in 1955 by DuPont researcher Jim White who saw polyethylene fluff coming out of a pipe in a DuPont experimental lab.[1] It was trademarked in 1965 and was first introduced for commercial purposes in April 1967.[2] According to DuPont's website, the fibers are 0.5–10 µm (compared to 75 µm for a human hair). The nondirectional fibers (plexifilaments) are first spun and then bonded together by heat and pressure, without binders.[3] Tyvek is manufactured at the Spruance plant in Richmond, Virginia, and in Contern/Luxembourg. Properties Among Tyvek's properties are: [*]Light weight [*]Class A flammability rating. [*]Chemical resistance [*]Dimensional stability [*]Opacity [*]Neutral pH [*]Tear resistant Uses Large sheets of Tyvek are frequently used as "house wrap," to provide a water barrier between the outer cladding of a structure and the frame, insulation, etc., allowing water vapor to pass yet restricting air infiltration.[4] Tyvek is used by the United States Postal Service for some of its Priority Mail and Express Mail envelopes. New Zealand used it for its driver's licenses from 1986 to 1999,[5] and Costa Rica,[6] the Isle of Man,[7] and Haiti[8] have made banknotes from it. These banknotes are no longer in circulation and have become collectors' items. Tyvek coveralls are one-piece garments made of Tyvek, usually white in color. They are often worn by mechanics over their clothes to avoid contact with oil and fuel. They can also be worn for painting to protect skin and clothes from splattered paint, for installation of fiberglass insulation, by workers in laboratories and cleanrooms, and for any other use where a disposable, one-time use coverall is needed. Tyvek coveralls are also used for some light hazardous materials applications, such as asbestos and radiation work but do not provide the level of protection of a full hazmat suit. Tychem is a sub-brand of Tyvek rated for a higher level of liquid protection, especially from chemicals. DuPont makes Tyvek clothing in different styles from laboratory coats and aprons to complete head-to-toe coveralls with hoods and booties. In 1976, fashion house Fiorucci made an entire collection out of Tyvek.[9] More recently fashion retailer and manufacturer American Apparel has included white Tyvek shorts as part of its range.[10] Rock band Devo is known for wearing large, two-piece Tyvek suits with black elastic belts and 3-D glasses. In 1979 Devo appeared with Tyvek leisure suits and shirts made specifically for the band, with the band's own designs and images.[citation needed] In 2005 Dynomighty Design[11] introduced a Tyvek wallet made from a single sheet of Tyvek. Increasingly, reused Tyvek material is being used by home crafters. Protective sleeves for Compact Discs and DVDs, tote bags,[12] and origami wallets [13] also use Tyvek-containing materials. Tyvek is also used as a durable fabric in shoes. The shoe brand Unstitched Utilities pioneered Tyvek's use in its line of footwear.[14] Tyvek is a strong, waterproof cover that serves various purposes. One example from sporting goods is its use in archery. This is due to its waterproof properties. Tyvek is used to construct target faces, replacing paper faces which are easily damaged when wet. Recycling Though Tyvek superficially resembles paper (for example, it can be written and printed on), it is plastic, and it cannot be recycled with paper. Despite the fact that some Tyvek products are marked with the #2 resin-code for HDPE, it is not usually collected with plastic bottles as part of municipal curbside recycling programs. Instead, DuPont runs a program in the United States where disposable clothing, coveralls, lab coats, and other Tyvek disposable garments can be recycled, as well as providing a mail-in recycling program for envelopes.[15] EDIT 2 : I am currently awating an email from another member at a different OMC With test results On the "flashspun high-density polyethylene fibers""Tyvek Envelopes"...its very good results, Try not to handle your Tyvek envelopes too much...You'll see why once I get the Ok to post the info from him I would Like to throw out a Big Thankyou to Zero for the information Provided Below The Information here was achieved by a simple google search, but weve all answered this question 100s of times...so now its a simple answer...link to this and let others who need the info read Peace **D**
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