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  1. Hello! I'm a noob here with just a couple posts, and this is my first grow. Seems like this took years LOL! To recap, my first issue was grain spawn progress getting stuck, which turned out to be because I had omitted Tyvek on my jars. Once it was pointed out to me that the myc was suffocating, I took a chance and poked through the silicone seal and hoped for the best. Out of seven jars I did this to, two became obviously contaminated. I dug a hole in the backyard, threw an old log into it and poured the tammed jars in and buried, hoping for a surprise later. Bottom line, don't skip the Tyvek! Next, I took my five remaining jars and put each in a 6qt tub with coir, mixed it all up, made sure the surface was even but not packed, covered each with foil and put back in the incubator to spawn. Problem was, since my grain got stuck earlier, I was now running into the holidays with a planned trip. So after 14 days in the incubator (and right before my holiday trip), on the advice of @Mushinist (THANK YOU!) I opened them up for casing, intending to case and put back into the incubator for 4 more days until I returned. Opening each up I only had one of them tammed, it was also planted in the backyard with a log and a prayer. The remaining four looked healthy. I didn't say they looked good. I think that my sub was a little too moist, and it was unevenly moist -- I had PC'ed it in a bag, and a lot of the moisture had pooled in the lower part of the bag, so getting the field capacity right was difficult. I wasn't off enough to kill it, but the surface of two tubs were very moist and it seemed like the more moisture there was the more uneven it got. Anyway, I cased the four tubs with the 50/50+ recipe using peat and verm and put them in the incubator until I returned from my holiday trip. A note on the casing: it was difficult for me to measure the peat as a volume measurement as per the recipe. I mean, the stuff is not dense. Are you supposed to mash it down? If so how much? What about all the stems and sticks? It seemed like after PCing the verm turned to mud with metallic flecks and the peat just disappeared, so my casing was more verm than anything. It still worked though, with some difficulties I will point out in a minute. Cracking open the incubator, things still looked good (i.e., no tam!) but some of the myc had just partied on the casing layer so everything was even more uneven. I dropped the temp to 68-ish and began fanning and misting. Soon I had pins (pencil is only for size reference, not pointing at anything). Then I had some mushies coming up. This was really just amazing to watch as a first-timer. Before I knew it, it was time to harvest. In each tub, some fruit was ready earlier than others, a lot earlier. I ended up picking those that had dropped the veil and were starting to drop spores, and fanned and misted the others to harvest no more than 12-14 hours later. This seemed to work pretty well as it gave the smaller fruits more time to grow and bulk up, which they did. Now here is where I had some trouble with the casing. I don't know if this is just part of the harvest for everyone, but the areas of myc that had broken through the casing tended to grow multiple stems on the same base, and these were difficult to get out -- the shrooms that had grown individually were relatively easy to twist and rock out, but the multiples always brought a good chuck of myc with them. Moreover, since the casing layer was heavy on the verm, the bases had these little paper-thin metallic verm flecks that were super hard to clean off. So much so that I really want to avoid verm as a casing material if possible! I got a toothbrush and cleaned them up as much as possible, but it was not a good time and I ended up just cutting a lot of it off. This photo shows what I'm talking about. Very messy. I don't have a digital scale (yet), but a kitchen scale showed yields (fresh) of about 14oz per tub, which at this point seems like a lifetime supply of medicine! (And in the meantime, trying to refine my technique I started another 7 jars. They are looking amazing, ready to move to tubs in a few days, but my timing once again is off because I have more flushes on this first grow to go...). I think I need to try some edibles or something so I can keep growing. Anyway, here is one final picture for you, cracker dry: Any pointers are appreciated. Thanks so mush for all your help!
  2. I'm growing Cubensis and without access to poop. So Im in between doing Coco coir, spent coffee grounds, and gypsum... Or Coco coir, vermiculite and gypsum. Which one should i go with and if you can explain why that would be great... More importantly what would be the ratio...
  3. So still very new, but I enjoy experimenting. I may have lost a whole bulk grow container of Maui P due to over experimentation. However this Golden T seems to be right on. I am going for an early fruiting because I am running out of space in my 2nd master bathroom (aka my shroomery). Trying a bonafide grow light see if some urgency is put on the myc to fruit. Recipe is coco coir, verm, coffee, calcium magnesium zinc, baking soda and malt barley. spawn was straight popcorn (best spawn jars ever, no contamination in all 13 pint jars) I'll keep you posted on progress,but any suggestions?
  4. So i recived Some vermiculite today, and it seems way to small for what I need. But imma gonna ask you guys first, before returning it.(using it for monotub) is it to small ?
  5. This is going to be my third attempt, first two died in firey contamination catastrophes.. So on to the questions. 1. can perlite be substituted for vermiculite? I cannot find coarse grade verm anywhere except on the internet. 2. Is an analog hygrometer necessary? 3. When pressure cooking materials how much water should I have in the pot? 4. can I use cow manure from home depot? 5. what are the best ingredients when using wbs? Should I find a straight bag of millet? 6. Would spraying a mold stopper in my tubs before installing sub be a good idea to precombat contamination? 7. can I use organic chicken manure fertilizer in place of cmc? My first attempts I tammed out in my grain jars and then in my monotub just as I was starting to pin. Any help and answers would kick ass. This site is amazing along with all it's members. Thanks.
  6. So to get field capacity vermiculite to add to my spawn to mix, before I mix could I add alittle water to the vermiculite bag that's not mixed with the spawn until it's at field capacity and then mix that with the spawn? also for the incubation of the Rez effect, when I mix it all into the tubaware container and put he foil on and wait for 10 days. Do I keep the lid on or off the container?
  7. To clarify I have read many forums on here . This will be my 1st rez tek grow. I have only done one previous grow brf cakes which included a grow kit that did most of the work for me. I about 2 weeks away from starting up but have some last minute preparation questions. Im doing Rez effect and considering PF Original the spores i bought ( i wont name source unless its ok with admin , not sure of the politics involved) dont all contain to have visible spores. when i first purchased spores years ago there were clumps. a few of the syringes i recently purchased have black specs...but some dont appear to have any black specs. do you think this will be an issue? i plan to only use the spores with the black specs ( which were barley visible unless i held to the light) pictures below. first pic- cambodian second- pf original Can i cut the tyvek suit to use for the lids- the post office dont have tyvek paper here and hoping its the same thing? 2nd part of this questions, when my lids are constructed can i place these lids with the tyvek and sylicone in the pc? i only have 12 jars , will be using 7 of them , and would only have 3 left that would not have lid designs. is the vermiculite posted below ok to use for the rez technique? i havent opened it yet and can order different on ebay.uk.co. if this verm is not ok to use in the rex tek then what grade should i order? ( please be specific as far as mm size) for clarification purposes as far as inaculation and fruiting parts of the process, the most important aspect is temperature? i know the fruiting part reqiures misting and fanning. but no need for lighting requirements as far as rez tek? and as far as multiple flushing all i would do is mist and fan for the rez tek? no need to dunk? last question do i need to line the fruiting chamber thank you all
  8. Please pardon my ignorance in posting this question if that is how it appears. As a total, 100% newbie to this subject matter, I have been reading what is around the internut about growing mushrooms and find myself confused about these things... Some folks seem very set that one MUST use vermiculite in their growth efforts - while others seem OK whether it is either Vermiculite -or- Perlite. In other things I have done they seem to be interchangeable, which is a very good thing as Vermiculite seems quite difficult to get other than in teeny little expensive bags around here - whereas Perlite can be easily had for more reasonable prices and in large amounts, if desired. Any info or advice in this matter will be very appreciated. Thanks.
  9. So, a few years ago, like the fool I sometimes am, I was all in a rush to buy me some vermiculite and get started. I went to Ace, and found some of this. Oh yeah, I bet a bunch of you vets are laughing. Professional = fine grade, I wasn't sure, and my cell was dead, so I just bought it. Damn. So fast forward, and I'm trying to grow again, but I still haven't got any coarse grade verm for the PF Tek jars I was wanting to try out (BTW, I have ordered some online and it's coming, finally... sheesh, I called most every ace hardware, lowes, hydroponics shop, feed and seed, garden centers, etc). So I grabbed my metal strainer/colander, and went to town on some verm. Here's the results. So, trying to do a bit more research, a standard bic lighter is 3.2 inches tall. I compared my picture to the one here. It seems I have some verm that is in between medium and coarse as my end result. Anyone have any ideas to add? Obviously, this won't get you a whole bag of coarse grade verm from a fine grade bag, but it'll definitely give you plenty for a few pf tek jars. These pictures were after I had filtered out a lot of coarser grade verm, but I had already added it to the jars I'm about to sterilize. Thought I'd share, thanks all. Ooh, thought I'd add this also, I'm thinking of using a spawn bag. I created this little guy out of an oven bag. Ya'll think it looks like enough air exchange, I covered up some of the tyvek with tape and I'm wondering if it's a large enough patch. Also, would it be feasible to perhaps seal my bag using a lighter or just masking tape or another tape? I don't have AL203's vacuum bag sealer, and I'm not about to buy one right now. I've read a few people saying you can get away with tape. Lighter too maybe?
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