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Found 16 results

  1. Str0be's NO FAIL WBS TEK V2.0 INTRO I have not been on here in a while and as I was going over different tek's that I have contributed, I realized that this was outdated. Makes me feel like an Ass because TBH, I haven't prepped my WBS like this since maybe 2012. I have been doing a much much easier way with comparable results. Doing it this way I am about to go over with you, you will not only save time by 50-75% compared to the old way, but you will have equally good results. I have yet to have any jars or bags fail this way! This tek will teach you how to prep your WBS, not help you pick our jars, bags or lids. We use bags, but this WBS prep tek will work for whatever you use! REQUIREMENTS / MATERIAL LIST - Wild Bird Seed - Any brand of WBS will work, Pennington Classic is the cleanest with the least waste. - Two 5 Gallon Buckets - 3/16 Drill Bit & Drill - Distilled Water - Jars or Bags - Impulse Sealer / Vacuum Sealer ** BAGS ONLY ** PROCEDURE 1. First off take a 5 gallon bucket, flip it upside down and drill as many holes on the bottom as you can. Be sure to clean out / rip / pull any loose plastic pieces from drilling. 2. Put your "Sifting Bucket" inside of the untouched bucket and pour seed 1/4 - 1/2 of the "Sifting Bucket" 3. With a twisting & shaking motion, sift through all the seed. You will be left with the Millet and other small seeds in the big bucket, and any sunflower seeds / corn will get trapped up top. Throw away all the crappy sunflower seeds and corn. You will be left with high quality seeds that you can work with! 4. Next your going to add the WBS to your Jars or Bags. I do this: Jars - 2 Cups of WBS per jar Large Bags - 2 quart jars per bag (Filled and leveled off at the very top) 5. Simply add your distilled water. The recipe is just like rice, but opposite. Always add 1/2 as much water as you do seed. **USE THE SAME MEASURING DEVICE FOR SEED AS WATER. EXAMPLE 2 CUPS SEED = 1 CUP WATER.** Jars - 1 Cup Water per Jar Large Bags - 1 quart jar Water per bag ( filled and leveled at very top of jar ) 6. If using jars, give the seeds a good mix with a knife to evenly distribute the water. For bags, just massage the seeds around. 7. Put lids of choice on jars, tighten, then 1/4 turn loose and your good to go. For bags, 0.5 micron bags to be exact, we seal the bag and cook. 8. Cooking Times : Jars 90min @ 15psi & Bags 120min @ 15psi. 9. **VERY IMPORTANT STEP** - As soon as the PC hits 0 and the weight drops, take your bags / jars out and shake the shit out of them. You must evenly distribute the moisture ASAP to ensure the tek works. 10. Next you need to wait 2 days until you can innoculate. **DURING THIS TIME YOU MUST SHAKE THE BAGS 2-3 TIMES A DAY TO DISTRIBUTE MOISTURE** That is all for this tek. I hope that it brings the community as much success as it has for me. I prefer this tek to the old NO FAIL WBS Tek due to its simplicity. Saves time with equal results. Why not?
  2. I'm preparing my first grow and was considering using organic rye berries. I've heard a lot about WBS, but not that much about rye berries. Does anyone have experience with both?
  3. Hey guys! This will be my second attempt at a monotub. My first attempt was very successful resulting in 3 flushes with almost a pound dry in total! This time around I nocked 9 single quart jars of wild bird seed/verm with Cambodian spores (the same as last time) I was very sterile using gloves and plenty of iso and I pressure cooked my jars before nocking them. After innoculation I let them sit for a week before lookin at them. They appeared to have a bit more moisture a in the jars than I remembered from the first go around. I let them sit for another week and Then I ended up moving 2100 miles away and drove across country. As a result the jars were subject to a varrying degree of temperatures. They're looking a little funky and I'd appreciate any input as to how they look. I also have a liquid culture subjected to the exact same conditions as the previously mentioned WBS jars. Once again any advice is much appreciated!!!
  4. Being Im loving in the UK currently materials have been very hard to get . the saying " everything in America is bigger" is truly more than just a saying, including variety options. So far Ive had to import a new PC, Quart size mason jars all because they dont sell them in the size or quantity here. Im adapting very well ( no grape jelly, maple syrup toilet/closet flange) other than the fact I dont like ordering as much as I have off line but I dont have other options. So now its been time to find bird seed, ive heard to keep away from cracked corn (maize), and look for a wbs grain that has mostly milo and millet. Most people from the states can just walmart the two main brains but i hAve visited all the pet stroes here and cant find a grain without cracked corn. To ship from the US such large pound bag would be ridiculous so my questions is any UK SOURCES? can i create the WBS from scratch getting the material separate, and if so whats grains should i buy at what quantity? or is there any other grain system i can use for the rez tek if im planning to use coarse verm? if no other options ill go this route below but it will be more expensive, being i dont have a store dedicated to birds i still want to be cost efficient. thank you for your help
  5. Hello. So long time lurker here. I'm finally in a place where I can get started with growing. I used wbs and I'm pretty sure I left it far too wet when putting it in the jars, pressure cooking, waiting, and noccing. Being that I live at 6k above sea level, my 15 psi cooker doesn't even hit high enough temps for proper sterilization, does it? Can I compensate by increasing the amount of time? Anyways, these got 2 hours. It seems my b+ might be running the course in one jar, and the second jar looks maybe contaminated, but hard to tell at this stage, 2 weeks in. I'm incubating at about 70, but above my fridge, so likely it is a tad hotter. My crappy digital thermometer/ hygrometer is at my mums and I'll have to pick it up soon, I know. Planning on a 6 quart dub tub if all goes well. Also, my jars fell over and the fine vermiculite layer on the bottom spilled a bit everywhere. Honestly, I thought this spore syringe was likely contaminated long ago. I've had it nigh on a year.
  6. Will this work? Obviously without the sunflower seeds. It was the only thing I could find at Home Depot.
  7. Hey there everyone! While I have been an avid reader of Shroomology for several years now, I have never actually made a post. Thus if I'm breaking any rules or am posting this is the wrong place, please feel free to let me know, as I plan to post on here much more often. Anyways, While I have never actually grown my own mushrooms, I have been around several grows before and am familiar the process. However I am about to start my very own grow for the first time and had a question. I have already created several quarts of WBS/Verm spawn jars and PC'd them accordingly. I plan on inoculating them in the next day or two; as soon as my spores arrive in the mail. How long after I inoculate them can I spawn them to my bulk substrate? I looked around before posting and couldn't find a concise answer. Some posts simply said 10 days, others said once the Mycelium has fully colonized or consolidated and some said 5 days after it has fully colonized/consolidated. Also, how can I tell for sure that the Mycelium has 100% colonized? Additionally, I'm currently planning on growing Cambodians.
  8. For about 2 weeks my jars have looked like the picture I attached. I think they were inoculated like 4 weeks ago. I have them in a cardboard box at normal or avg temp is 78. Is there anything wrong?
  9. From the album Misc stuff

    these after 2 day after first shake, innoc'd 1/19
  10. From the album GOIN HARD!

    Just shot 25 of these guys up. The others on the top left are my isolation's.
  11. All right, so about two weeks ago I made some new jars (since then Ive changed my lid tek to avoid contamination) and I havent done anything with them yet. I figured I would make the jars ahead of time before I would need them. In the mean time check out what happened with this jar. Sorry if its upside down. All I did with these jars was PC for an hour and a half at 15 PSI. These were brand new jars and I have fresh myc growing. I DID NOT SHOOT THIS JAR UP. What could be growing?
  12. Okay, so I got really bored and creative this weekend and decided to build this and wanted to share it with you all. This is definitely nothing new or ground breaking, but I think I just improved upon the original way a hair. The Problem: Wild bird seed is very dirty. There's no way around it. It's grown outdoors, harvested with machines and treated and processed in factories. There's no need in sanitizing it since it's meant for wild birds and not human consumption. The Resolution: Washing it. Plain and simple; if something is dirty and you want it clean, you wash it. There are plenty tek's out there for this purpose and they're all great. This is just my way of doing it. Estimated time: Labor = Ten minutes Waiting = Twenty four hours Required Tools: Drill 3/4" Drill bit Plastic mixing tool of some sort- I used a plastic spoon Something to mix on, I used a plastic jar lid Materials needed, (and the cost at which I purchased them for): 5-Gallon bucket, $2.60 3/4" X 2" PVC SCHDL 80 Nipple Riser, $0.47 Loctite Plastic Epoxy, $5.47 Zinc Hose Y w/shutoff, $4.97 12 pack Yuengling, $8.69 (Optional) The Construction: I start out by drilling out a 3/4" hole about 2 inches from the bottom of the bucket. You want to make sure there is just enough room for the Hose Y to spin on the inside without getting stopped by the bottom of the bucket. Then, screw in the nipple riser until you can no longer see the threads. Grab the Hose Y and screw it all the way onto the nipple riser inside of the bucket. Now it's time to start mixing that epoxy I recommend mixing it for about 60 seconds. This stuff sets up slower than traditional epoxy and if you try to apply it too quickly after mixing it, you'll have a runny mess like I did. After you feel it start thicken up a little, go ahead and slop it on the inside and out of the bucket around the nipple riser. BTW, as an after though, i decided to add some bathroom caulk around this area as well to plug up any spots I missed and prevent leaks. (Optional) Drink your Yuengling while cleaning up the mess you just made. Allow the epoxy to cure for 24 hours prior to use. How to use: I grabbed a window screen and propped it up on a couple of bins and placed the contraption we just built on top of the screen. You'll see why momentarily. Screw your water hose on the outside of the bucket and turn it on. Look inside to ensure both shut off valves are open. Slowly pour your WBS into the bucket after it fills up with water. This will make it much easier to get rid of all those pesky sun flower seeds as they'll just stay afloat and not sink back down to the bottom of the bucket. This is why the window screen comes in handy; it's a lot easier to clean up your mess afterwards. Took me about 3 minutes total to drop a 20 pound bag of seed into the bucket. See how dirty the water is? Allow the water to run for about 5 minutes, then reach your arm in there and give it a good stir. repeat a few times until.. ..you see the water nice and clear as such. Take the bucket off the screen and clean up your mess. Conclusion: Now, from here you can use a variety of other teks out there. You can let your seed to sit in this very same bucket and hydrate for 24 hours by just reaching your arm in the seed and closing the shut off valves. You can toss the floating trash from the screen, then use that very same screen to toss your WBS on to get it out of the water and start a simmer tek. It's really all up to you. I hope you found this guide useful. Feel free ask me anything if I didn't make it clear enough and as always, happy harvesting!
  13. Str0be's NO FAIL WBS Tek PLEASE FIND STR0BE'S UPDATED NO FAIL WBS TEK V2 HERE (CLICK) This is my Wild Bird Seed (WBS) Tek that I have been using now for quite some time with 100% sucess. I like to use WBS because it is the cheapest and mort efficient spawn to use, and because I cannot find Rye grains locally. Before using this method contamination was a huge problem for me. I tried 4 or 5 different WBS preps / teks and kept having contamination problems. I have had no contamination at all since I switched to this method. I have added my own variations / secrets which have given me improved success as well. . If you follow along step by step, you should lessen, if not completely iliminate any contamination problems you are having THINGS YOU WILL NEED - Pressure Cooker - 5 Gallon Bucket with Sealing Lid - Wild Bird Seed - Large pot for boiling Water - Screen - Vermiculite - 1/3 Measuring Cup - Quart Sized Mason Jars - Hammer and 1/4" Diameter Nail OR 1/4" Drill and Bit - Post office Tyvek Envelopes - Aluminum Foil INFO ON WILD BIRD SEED Any brand of Wild Bird seed will work so long as it does not contain any fungicides. When looking at the back ingredients, Potassium Iodide is a normal additive and is not considered a fungicide. When looking for a type of WBS to buy, I look for one that is mostly Milo and Millet, and has not as much or very little Sunflower seeds. Two brands that are good are Pennington's Classic, and Walmart's Economy Wild Bird Feed Mix. - INSTRUCTIONS 1. The first thing I always do is get my pot of water boiling. Your going to need about 1 - 2 gallons of water (enough to fill the bucket 1/3 the way). So get that into a pot and get it boiling on the stove ASAP. HINT: I usually throw on a lid on the pot just to make it boil faster. 2. The next thing that I always am thinking is how many jars I want to be making at a time. My pressure cooker is a 16 Quart, and can only do 7 Jars at a time. Sometimes I will do less than 7 jars if other things need to be put in their place. You might have a better pressure cooker that can hold 10 jars, so I will include the measurements for all. 2 Full Quarts of dry WBS = 5 Quarts Finished WBS 3 Full Quarts of dry WBS = 7 Quarts Finished WBS 4 Full Quarts of dry WBS = 10 Quarts Finished WBS 3. I measure out the amount of dry WBS that will be needed and pour it all into the 5 gallon bucket. HINT: Add an extra 1/3 of a jar to the bucket to buffer for the sunflower seeds being removed. HINT: You want to make sure that the bucket you are using has a good sealing lid. The orange Homer Buckets from Home Depot are perfect. They are $3 each and have a rubber ring in the lid to hold a perfect seal. 4. The next step will be to get rid of as many sunflower seeds as we can. The sunflower seeds can be over hydrated, and cause bacterial growth, which will mess up your jars. We do this by filling the bucket about half way with water. All the sunflower seeds will float to the surface, and you simply scoop them out and throw them away. Remember to run your hands through the WBS in the bottom to get any sunflower seeds that are stuck down below. This step does not have to be perfect, nor does every single sunflower seed have to be removed; just try to get most of them. 5. Now we need to get rid of the water, or at least most of it, from the bucket. I usually put the window screen over the top of the bucket, and pour as much water out as I can. 6. By this time, the pot of water is usually done boiling. It doesn't have to be a rapid boil, and you don't need to time it, just as soon as you see the boiling bubbles appear; it is ready to be used. 6a. You want to pour the boiling water into the bucket so that there is twice as much water as WBS. HINT: I usually stick my finger into the WBS to see the depth, then find a mark on the bucket that equals twice that depth. 6b. Once you pour the water into the bucket, quickly apply the lid, and make sure that it is secure to create a perfect seal. It is normal to have the lid bubble up. In fact, this is a key part of this step. 6c. Put your timer on 45 - 90 Minutes. 90 Minutes is preferable. 7. In the meantime, we will be prepping the Lids to the jars. If you already have your own lids from previous jars or teks, then by all means, use those. There is no right or wrong kind of lids to use as long as they allow gas exchange and you know they work. I am including instructions for the ones that work for me. 7a. Flip your lid so that they are rubber side up, and use your hammer and nail, or drill and bit to make a hole in the center. You want the hole to be about 1/4 inch. 7b. Get out your tyvek envelope and trace around the edge of the lid. Use sciscors or razor blade to cut out the discs. - 8. Next get out your measuring cup, and put 1/3 cup of Vermiculite into each of your jars. - - 9. By now the 45 minute timer has probably gone off. Its time to clean and air dry your WBS. 9a. Place the screen over your sink, or even over a large storage bin, and pour out all the WBS onto the screen. Give it a good rinse to clean off all the WBS. 9b. Spread it all out over the screen, and allow it to air dry for 20 minutes. 10. After 20 minutes of drying has gone by, your WBS is ready to be loaded into the jars. It is most likely still quite wet, but this is ok. The Vermiculite in the bottom of the jars is there to absorb the excess water. Fill each jar about 2/3 of the way up. - HINT: You can use the Ball or Kerr symbols as reference points for a good depth. Fill the WBS to about the middle of that writing. 11. Now clean the inside neck / rim of the jar with a paper towel. 12. Next it is time to put the lids on the jar. 12a. Start by puttin the lid on rubber side up. 12b. Then we want to put on our tyvek disk that we cut out earlier and add the band. HINT: Put the Tyvek disk on the band first, and then screw the band on. I find it makes a better fit for the tyvek, and usually does not create bubbles. 12c. Tighten it down. 13. Next put a square of Aluminum foil to prevent any extra moister from getting in, and loosen the lids 1/4 turn. 14. Load jars into your pressure cooker, and pressure cook @ 15 PSI for 90 minutes. 15. Once the time is up, remove the pressure cooker from the heat. Wait until the pressure reaches 0 and the lock drops and continue on to step 16. 16. Once the pressure cooker is fully cooled its time to open it up to tighten the lids. 16a. Wearing a pair of winter gloves, an oven mit or a rag, remove each jar and tighten the lid down tight. 16b. You want to shake each jar to distribute the water and loosen up the WBS without disturbing the vermiculite at the bottom. I find it best to hold the jar at an angle with one hand, and hit the top with the other. If done correctly only the WBS should move, and the vermiculite should stay in place. HINT: Sometimes WBS gets between the metal lid and the tyvek, which is really annoying to me. Then you can mess up your tyvek and or your jars when trying to fix it. Stop this from happening ahead of time by keeping a finger over the 1/4" hole while shaking. 16c. Allow the jars to cool. This usually takes about 7 - 10 hours. It is easiest if you allow the jars to cool overnight. 17. Give the jars one last shake before inoculation. Do the same shake as before to distribute the water and loosen the WBS, but without disturbing the vermiculite in the bottom. INOCULATION Next its time to inoculate your jars. It is best to do this inside a glovebox, such as my High Quality Glovebox. By following the steps below, you can have fully colonized jars in as little as 7 - 14 days. 1. As stated in step 17 above, you want to give the jars one last shake before inoculating. 2. Wipe off the tyvek lid of the jar with isopropyl rubbing alcohol. 3. Flame sterilize and or rub needle tip with isopropyl rubbing alcohol before inserting syringe into center of tyvek / center of jar lid. 4. Point the needle at an angle so it is pointing at the glass, and shoot in 4CC MAX of your favorite Spore or LC Syringe, while slowly rotating the jar so that you get 360 degree even distribution of your inoculant. 5. Place a piece of micropore tape over the needle hole on the tyvek lid, and label your jars. 6. Put the jars into your Incubation Chamber, and you should have quality spawn ready for use in as little as 7 - 14 days! - -
  14. grain spawn

    THINGS YOU NEED -JAR LIDS ANY SIZE WILL WORK -SCREW DRIVER OR NAIL -HAMMER -TYVEK(there free at your local post office) -RTV HIGH TEMP SILICONE -RAZOR KNIFE -PEN OR A PENCIL(OPTIONAL) -MAKING THE HOLES grab your hammer, screw driver(or nail), and jar with the lid on........ also make sure your center.... like so then make the holes and dont pound on the lids like you would nailing somthing to the wall youll break the jar.......it dont take that much stregnth to puncture the lids -MAKING THE TYVEK now grab the razor, the lid, and pen or pencil(optional)you can trace the lid with the pencil thn cut it out or you can just cut around the lid watever you thinks easier check it out thn grab the RTV SILICONE take the cut out of the tyvek and dab some silicone on..... again make sure your center like this NOTE: watever side you punctured will leave a bur like this now that side needs to be faced down like this NOT LIKE THIS it doesnt matter if you punctured the top or the bottom of the lids either....... they work both ways the reason why the burr needs to be facing down is because the tyvek will be sticking up and wont seal as well and will also allow for a higher rate of contamination in my experience so i always do it this way, now put the lids on first then the tyvek and seal that bitch LET IT DRY 24 HOURS BEFORE USE YOU CAN ALSO REUSE THEESE MULTIPLE TIMES IVE DONE IT................. AND YOUR DONE AS SIMPLE AS THAT -HERES THE END RESULTS
  15. WBS Prep: My WBS prep is pretty much the same as everyone else's, minus a few things that I do. I get the desired amount of WBS, I usually use the kind with cracked corn, and get a pot of BOILING water. Throw in WBS and stir that bitch or else it will stick to the bottom and smoke up you're house for about 5 minutes. Then turn off heat and let sit for 30, take of hot burner and place on the other cool one. Remember to stir about every five minutes to make sure they are evenly distributed. NEXT, begin rinsing them with COLD water until the water is clear. When that has been achived (cracked corn will make it really foggy and kinda soupish, don't worry because it will go clear eventually) put in a colinder and strain for 5 minutes. Kinda lift it up and hold it in you're hands and let it fall and stop it kinda fast and extra water will come out. There is no need for the way I do it for it not to clump or stick to stuck you put in it. That reason is because - next you add 1/3 part of DRY verm and mix it up well. You want it to be moist, but not so moist that when in a bowl you are mixing all this up there is water on the bottom. If that happens add SMALL amounts of verm until there is no standing water or pooling in the bottom. After you add the verm it might look moist but after this next part you will see what happens. Before that though load WBS/verm mix into empty jars as is and then do the whole Tyvek/rtv thing. Lids are up to you. Now, they are ready to be steamed. WBS Jar Steaming: Ok, this is no hard at all, if you can boil an egg you can do this. LOL Really, everyone has always said you need a PC to do grains and steam sterilizing wasn't possible. I disagree. For 2 years now I have maintained a 90%-95% success rate. I have lost one jar to bac in the last three months. And the 10 pints I will picture I had 100% success with. I even gave them SEVEN days before I nocced them to give myself extra fail potential. They were also done by my WBS prep method described above. Alright, here it is, and it is simply. First, you need a large pot with a lid, without the lid it will probably fail. I have super sealed it with 8 layers of tin foil before though and it works better because it keeps more of the heat/steam in. How to put you're jars in can be done a couple ways, but they CAN NOT touch the bottom of the pot. I used a canning pot that has a rack about an inch up from the bottom. Before I got that I used just a regular pot and then space jar rings place in the bottom of the pan as if they were on a jar. Fill up pot with warm water until it is 1/3 up the jars, there should be a fair amount of water in the pot. Turn heat to medium-high for first 15 minutes then crank that bitch up to high. Let this go for 2 and half hours but 3 is recommended. You will need to check on the water and make sre you refill it back to 1/3 the way up the jar after halfway through, maybe before if you got a nice stove. At the end of the time simply turn off heat. Let them set in the pot for 12-16 hours. Why do I do this? Remember up at the prep I didn't soak? Eh, eh? Well you don't need to soak. instead of soaking you go straight to heat, then the 12-16 hours acts as the soak in between but all you have to do is turn off the heat then turn it back on. Anyway, after this 12-16 hours repeat heating for 2.5 to 3 hours. Let set until room temp. If you want to be careful then you can wait a week before noccing, contam should show up by then so you don't waste spores.
  16. There are many ways to do this. This is my way. If you cant do it exactly the way I do it, just make it happen! Things you will need: [*]5gal bucket [*]Wild Bird Seed [*]Gypsum [*]Screen [*]Quart mason jars [*]Pressure cooker HOW TO: First we start with the Wild Bird Seed (WBS) Good bird seeds for this tek are ones that are cheap, have no fungicides. I get mine from wal mart, and reccomend wither the Economy mix, or Pennington Clasic. The economy mix is mostly Milo (AWESOME!) and is cheaper than the name brand by a couple bucks. Pour however much you need into the 5 gal bucket. 1 quart of dry WBS will generaly make about 2 quarts of WBS when soaked and PCed. First thing we want to do is get all the sunflower seed (or 95% of it) out of the good stuff. The sunflower seed can screw your jars up later on, and cause bacterial contam by being overly hydrated. So we do this by taking the bucket outside (or in the bathtub) and filling it up with a hose until it begins to overflow. The sunflower seeds will float and rise to the top then spill over onto the ground. Make sure you reach in there with a spoon, stick, or your hand and stir up any sunflower seeds that are trapped under the rest of the seed, to make sure most of the sunflower seed rise to the top and are pushed out. Let the bird seed soak for 18-24 hours. We do this because heat resistant bacterial endospores lie dormant in the grains. The soak is not to hydrate the bird seed so much, as it is to penetrate the hulls and germinate the dormant bacteria, so that we effectively kill them in the PC. While the bird seed is soaking you will need to construct your lids, and your filter disks. I suggest folowing this tek, its easy and the filter disks are free: easy tyvek lids. Once the soak is complete, dump the seed into a strainer, and rinse it very well (temp doesnt matter) until the water coming out of it is clear. This takes about 1 minute. Once the seed is rinsed well, lay it out on something to dry. A screen, a towel with a fan on it, whatever it takes to get it to dry. The bird seed will be ready when there is very little to no moisture on the surface of the grains. You can grab a handful and dump it, and only a little will stick to your hand. Once this is accomplished, load your bird seed into qt jars, to about the 3 cup line, install the lids, and ring, but only screw the ring down so that it jiggles a little. DO NOT tighten the ring down all the way. Load your dried bird seed into jars to the 3 cup line. Install your lids that you made here: easy tyvek lids Once you have done that screw the ring down Load your jars up into the PC and PC for 90 min @ 15 PSI. This means you set the timer for 90 min when the rocker begins to rock, not when you turn the stove on. You are now done. Let them sit in the PC overnight, and cool off, then shake them up before you inoculate. Enjoy!